What Next? 1973 Ford Contry Sedan

What's that Stevie Ray Vaughan song line? Oh, yeah: "Money's tight; nothing's free. Won't somebody come and rescue me?"

Yeah, it's possible he'll need to press the bushings on a hydraulic press. When that's the case, the labor does go up. But purchasing the parts yourself will give at least some monetary cushion against that labor.

 

Now from looking online,I am not even sure that the front and rear bushings of the shaft are the same part. Ugh. By this time also,I should maybe ask a different mechanic (mine is working for a chain and can't order just any old part). I should probably ask the parts guy at Ford locally to look in the microfiche,then I'd at least have a part number.

 

I don't think the dealer parts guys have the microfiches anymore. But Green Sales in Ohio has them for sale! And they should be able to give you the info you need, plus be able to answer if the shafts were available and if so, whether they have any.

 

Yeah, well,Art in the parts dept. still has the microfiche. I had to go out and get a piece of glass cut so the 'fiche could work again. He's ordered the bushings,I may just have the Ford service dept. press 'em in.

 

That's pretty rare. My understanding is the dealers were supposed to have 'cleaned house' back in the early '90s. It was why I could not get the Thermactor pipe for the cat converter on an '80 Thunderbird that had failed the emissions underhood inspection. We had to take it to an exhaust shop to have one cobbled together.

 

I realized while driving at night that since I installed the air shocks on the rear axle that my high beams are aimed down at the road a yard in front of the bumper! I adjusted them as soon as I got home. 60 psi in the shocks at this point. Still waiting for the control arm bushings--I hope they go in easy or the labor will kill me! Steering box is drip drip drip--gonna need attention!
The other thing that happened is that the engine actually stopping seems to mainly happen at a stoplight,or,when slowing up for one. Wouldn't a carburetor float do that if something went wrong in there? Still wondering too why this engine idles so roughly.

 

There's a number of things that'll cause a stall: weak ignition/worn points, dying coil, worn fuel pump arm/cam eccentric, sticking needle & seat, plugged filter, uneven compression/dead cylinder(s), worn cam lobes/collapsed lifters (hydraulic)/bent pushrods. You still running the points & condenser?

 

The fuel pump had vigorous output when I checked it. The distributor/points/condenser were new a while ago. Coil was replaced. Fuel filter was replaced. I suppose I could re-replace some things..
Anyway,the control arm bushings are in at the parts dept.,so I should schedule the surgery/drop off the car tomorrow. The Ford people replaced large bushings in the rear suspension on the '04 Mustang GT,as well as "sway" bar rubber in front. That wasn't cheap,either. But at least they are equipped to do it!

 

Say,it was only $274.19 to get the left side bushings in. So I left the Ford dealer which is up on a hill,drove down the main intersection,I had the arrow so I made my left turn,and the engine sagged and took a bit to recover,like a Spitfire tangling with a fuel-injected ME-109. Now I really think there is something wrong with that carburetor! And that it could be causing the rough idle as well.
There is still some shaking at 70 mph,so I am going to rebalance and rotate 4 wheels and get the alignment redone.

 

OK, now we're getting somewhere!

 

And twenty points for the Battle of Britain reference!

 

OK,wheels balanced/rotated,alignment done,smooth at 75. All the other problems will wait a bit...The alignment tech claimed that the steering gearbox had some slop to it,so maybe along with the leak,just as well to replace it.

 

Well,the old girl just turned 69K. Maybe the residual vibration is due to the slop in the steering gearbox/idler arm/I dunno. I did the recommended idle procedure,which begins:Turn off the AC,turn on the headlights High beam,disconnect that crazy electric dashpot,set idle 500,connect it and set 625,etc. Maybe someone else touched it,as it was set wrong. The engine idles slower and smoother,but not yet perfectly smooth.
I checked the primary wire and oh crap,a bare spot potentially contacting the intake manifold! I repaired it and wrapped it in electrical tape and spiral plastic wrap,and so far,no stalling.
I had to readjust the headlights after setting the rear shocks at 60 psi,and I noticed the headlights had a bluish haze inside,almost like a gassy vacuum tube,so I replaced the outers (4000,now 5006 low beam/dual) and now have a more focused and brighter beam. All four lights are most likely 43 years old,so I'll soon replace the High beams too. The fun continues...

 

It's good you found that wire--engine movement is likely what caused your stalling. Here's to knocking on wood *raps knuckles on noggin*

 

Aaarrgh! It stalled again in traffic. Really hard to start it again,so I'm back to thinking fuel system. Or two possible causes.