Think I could get some advice on a good muffler?

I never had much luck at doing custom exhaust myself in the past, but I am going to see what I can do on the Merc. The exhaust on it was good and looked to be a very recent addition, but adding headers, moving the exits from the rear to the sides, and adding the H-pipe are going to have me cutting out more than I am adding back in.

Just got started welding the reducers up. The headers are 3.5" at the collectors, and I am running 2.5" so I had to go 3.5"-3.0" and then 3.0"-2.5". It was significantly less expensive than the one 3.5"-2.5" reducer I could locate.

Once things dry up, I can look at getting under the car and taking care of the rest of the mess. :2_thumbs_up_-_anima

 

That's the reason I was just thinking of taking it too a shop, hadn't even thought of doing my own work, I mean maybe I could see mounting the mufflers up, but I doubt that, I don't have access to a welder for the brackets. Besides, all things accounted for, the shop cost will only be about $300-400, I think that's worth it over the time of fighting leaks.

Also, buster, I'll look into Magnaflow, see if they have anything I like.

 

As F. Tedy wrote sometimes it's better to just take it to a shop and get it done right.

 

Yeah I know, that's what I said above. Currently I'm trying to figure out which muffler I'd like to use, and if any headers that don't have the smog tube on them fit my car that don't cost as much as a set of cheap headers. Don't really want to go the route of headers 'cause they get loose and require tinkering to stop leaking. But, if I can't find anything better than these headers, I'll just use them:

http://www.jegs.com/i/Hedman/500/68290/10002/-1

As this is not a performance build, I'm not shelling out money for performance parts, especially not when it comes to manifolds or headers.

 

The engine will only perform to the limits of its weakest link, and a set of headers will be far from the weakest link in the performance chain, so I wouldn't be spending any more than I had to if I were you unless you have designs on significantly more performance in the future.

 

If I ever go for a higher performance build, it will be an LS swap, or maybe a vortec top end swap later on, so no, the crate engine as it comes is pretty much how it will stay. As I said in another post, I live in the blue ridge mountains, and the only thing straight line speed gets you is you speeding in a straight line over the side of one of the blue ridge mountains.

 

Sounds like a good place to hang out at the local cruise-in and show off your upgraded brakes.

 

If you mean painted calipers, I can't stand that nonsense. Sure, I'll but disc brakes in the rear the next time the drums need working over, 'cause, drum brakes are from antiquity and possibly hell. But you won't be able to see them 'cause I'll be using Cragar Soft 8's in a 17x8" size (235/65R17, replacing 235/75R15) in black or chrome, haven't decided yet, but I'm leaning t'wards black.

 

There are a couple of reasons to go with the H or X cross over. First, they do, especially the X, increase scavenging. The vacuum behind the one pulse helps pull the next pulse through. Also, if you damage a muffler, the back pressure is automatically even on the engine. Uneven back pressure can burn valves, so it is well worth it.

Tedy: I know you think you know ALL about fuel economy on MY cars but you really do not. You keep going on what you think makes sense. I am talking experience in the real world. The difference in performance is very noticeable, and when you can go an extra 100 km per tank, tank after tank after tank, you do begin to believe that the fuel economy has improved. I always reset the trip odometer to measure my economy, so it is very clear when a tank lasted 500 km before the exhaust work, and 600 after. Add the proper tuning, and I did get that up to 800 km/tank on a 79 Ford Thunderbird.

 

Mike I have similar results with my simple duals on the Dodge truck. Especially after getting the cats back free flowing. No X or Y but may in future.
Sadly the dual are actually restriced because the left pipe crosses over next to the right and back left again behind axle. Fuel tanks.
Even so my mileage went from 13's to 17.1 and 17.2. Far from what I'd like but above the norm for these earlier new hemis. Possibly it wasn't the duals but the freeing up the Cat's flow. Still I believe the duals helped and future headers should help more.
Either that or trade for an Elio. I've laid awake nights designing an Elio wagon with four wheels seating two adults and two kids in the way-back seat. That and the first Elio with a small block Chevy or Hemi! I really need to start taking sleeping pills!

 

I'm sorry, I'll bow my head in shame to you 40MPG man Wish I knew 1/2 of what you think you do......
I'd be rich!




Now back to subject, what kind of muffler bearings do recommend he use and how much more HP and MPG will he get?

 

Now back to subject, what kind of muffler bearings do recommend he use and how much more HP and MPG will he get?
In the olden days ball bearings were used throughout in cars. But roller bearings spread the weight and stress much better. I'd suggest a good high temp roller bearing inserted at the front and rear of all mufflers no matter what brand is used. These create a better exhaust air flow over the bearings increasing both HP, fuel mleage, and scavenging.
It sounds pretty too!

 

LS powered Elio, anyone? I mean I don't really want to drive it, though in all the ways most people die, dieing by plowing into the side of a race track at over 100 in an LS powered Elio would be something a tad different.

Also, don't be too hard on Mike, he's trying to help, I know there are some gimmicks out there, but I"m also not worried about a muffler getting backed up, I've got a really good understanding of what my car is doing. When you ride in a car for most of your life, and drive a said car for many years, you kinda know what to expect. I knew the transmission wasn't long for this world, acceleration, and overall power took a hit before the transmission decided to bleed to death. It had also lurched between gears when the transmission was cold, fluid was fine, just a bad rebuild I guess.

 

So these guys say you only need one per muffler, but you say 2.... I'll believe you, Cat! Makes more sense to have one at each end of the muffler.

http://kalecoauto.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=48

 

It makes good sense. A muffler has an inlet and somewhere there must be an outlet. Therefore the inlet muffler bearing only helps speed up the exhaust gases going into the muffler where it muffles. Those outlet muffler bearings are doing most of the work rerouting that quiet exhaust and sending it to the tail pipes in a smooth transfer as those quiet fumes and gases escape.
Where the real problems lie is with those people who insist on having those X Y and Z pipes before the mufflers in dual exhaust systems. It reverses the direction of the front muffler bearings at each pulse creating friction and irregular vibrations on the rear muffler bearings.
Just looking at those letters X, Y, and Z should prove that a Z pipe both in front and at the tail pipes behind the mufflers is the only way to really gain HP and fuel milege.
Yet the speed shops only recommend the X and Y pipes. The little known fact is the Z pipe is much cheaper and lasts longer. We all know these hotrod companies are in business to make money. Therefore no mention is made of muffler bearings or Z pipes. A third Z crossover is also helpful just in front of the tail pipe tips for that real hotrod sound while shooting flames at the diner. Also it's the ideal location for those Autolite spark plugs.

Tedy, I noticed in that muffler bearing add that those are the cheap Chinese muffler bearings with ball bearings. They will not last 200,000 miles. Probably not 200. Only use Amercan made muffler bearings using the modern roller bearings. Ask your friendly NAPA dealer. He will be glad to look it up for your car. Most of them are just wasting time on forums anyway.