If you can find it, get some Super Kwik made by Walker muffler company. It's a rust solvent, not a penetrating oil, though it does penetrate. A parts store that carries Walker mufflers should be able to get it for you. It's made for separating exhaust pipes and mufflers when only replacing part of the system. It works a lot better than PB Blaster or Kroil. It was our go-to product in the shop. Also, if your engine is on a stand, turn it so the pistons are vertical when applying solvents, so it gets 360 degrees around the rings. It should leak thru the ring gaps allowing it to bet into all 3 rings.
They definitely aren't plentiful. Every once in a while, they come up on Craigslist, but are usually listed for WAY too much. I have a lead on a Marine lower that comes with the Explorer upper but for about the same price I can get a brand new Professional Products (Edelbrock knockoff) EFI manifold. The block gets pretty warm. I have it on a stand with one bank facing up at a time. I think all the corrosion is pretty well softened and in a couple of the "problem" cylinders, they leak the penetrant out the bottom. If I could get the crank out, it'd make things much easier. As it is, when I smack one piston, the force is distributed to the others that are stuck, pushing them up or down.
It's nice to see an update on this project. I love this photo I have a couple of junior mechanics-in-training to help me with my stuff as well.
Ah. For some reason I read that the crank was free and ignored the next sentence and assumed the crank was out. The stuff that OldFox posted about isn't available anymore, but there are several pretty good rust solvents out there that might be worth a try
The 390FE is still on the stand, I've been fiddling with it on and off over this past year, soaking it with a variety of different things. I've come to the conclusion that the force from the hammer blows are being absorbed from the engine stand bouncing around. I can't really twist very hard on the crankshaft without dumping the whole thing over. I don't really see any way to free up the stuck pistons other than surgical extraction! I figure I can drill through the piston and bust it out in pieces. I just hope the wrist pins don't interfere too much. I really want to reuse the conn rods if at all possible so care must be taken not to accidentally drill or grind into them. I have been researching more on transmission options for the 390FE and found some of the truck guys have been mating them to an NV4500, using stock bell housing (T18?) and an adapter plate. The HD version came in diesel powered Dodge Rams as well as GM's. Rebuilt NV4500's can be had for a fraction the price of a TKO500 or a Lentech AOD. Need to figure out the gears needed (if I can't use the 3.00) to have a useful 1st and a good 5th for interstate cruising @75-80 mph. To do that, I need to settle on a rim and tire combo to have the overall tire height... BUT 1st, I need to see if the 390FE is even re-buildable!!! I have been taking night classes after work trying to get my bachelors degree and we have another baby (number 6!) on the way due in late January so time in the garage is pretty rare these days. Hopefully I'll get her done before I am too old and senile to drive!
I had the 289 running, rebuilt the carb, changed the fluids, tune up, etc. I replaced the pressure modulator on the back of the FMX but never had it on the road. The body had too much cancer, so I set about finding a donor body and frame. Figured I'd just swap the drivetrain, interior, and glass over onto the new body and frame and call it a day. Things kinda got out of hand quick though. Rebuilt the front suspension, front disc brake swap, OD tranny swap, paint and a little body work, swapping a few body panels with the other car...
I gotcha. So, at this point could you get it driving as is? Or is it still way to far apart for that?
Check out this post. This stuff isn't mine, but I posted it on the parts for sale portion of the forum. https://albuquerque.craigslist.org/pts/d/1967-ford-galaxie-and-country/6456975741.html
I've found that lowering the block to the ground, and propping it up with wood blocking, upside-down, makes it easier to place a solid bar on each side of the inverted piston and give the piston 'love taps,' alternating on each side, to start pushing the piston and rod up the bore, and using moly b grease on the ridge, unless you can get a ridge reamer in, helps coax the slugs from their bores. No bouncing, force transmitted with little or no movement of the block, and yeah, much easier if you can get the crank out first.
Nice 67! I have one as well and also needed to find a second parts car. cleaning the gunk and smooz off I've been using the cheapest oven cleaner I can find and a pressure washer. let it sit for 10-15 minutes and it peels off with the pressure washer. I found a GM nv4500 locally for $350 and it bolts up to the ls based 5.3 I'm using. its a big trans and I had to modify the trans tunnel for it to fit and had to make a crossmember for it. 1st gear is pretty much useless, but it does have OD.
If you're going to hammer on them, you'll have no choice but to unbolt the rod from the crankshaft. Otherwise, you'll never get the momentum needed to move them. Especially, if more than one piston is frozen in. In which case, you'll never get anything to move. Have you tried soaking the pistons in brake fluid yet?
