DIY Headers

Discussion in 'Cosmetic & Restoration' started by Stormin' Norman, Jan 28, 2014.

  1. Stormin' Norman

    Stormin' Norman Well-Known Member

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    From Pipe Dream to almost done!

    Once I finish fitting the pipes into their respective 3-in-1 collectors, I'll have them within 3/4" of each other. My original plan was for 32-1/4" long tubes, but as Mike (The Premier) pointed out, that's for High-Revving, High Performance machines. My wagon doesn't need that, with only 140 to 150 HP. I need mid-range Torque, and daily driver economy.

    I used 309 Stainless flux-coated rod to do this, at first with those small red OXY tanks. WAY too many of them. But essential on the 3/8" thick steel flanges. On the 1/16" thick 304L SS tubing, the large propane torch nozzle did the job on the last 5 tubes and their joints.

    I have to give the Ford Falcon engine designers their dues. The exhaust port face angle from vertical is 22.5 degrees. Except for the mitered corners on Port 1 and 6, ALL of the pipe seams are at 22.5 degrees. Number 4 pipe is also an odd duck at 30 degrees on the last section into the collector. Only 3 pipes needed to be turned inward (towards the block) to match up with the collector entries, 4, 2 and 5, by 4 degrees.

    Port stubs from 3 and 4 angled toward the front, by about 3 degrees, but that wasn't what I had planned. When I formed them into the rectangular flange port holes, the thicker tube walls retained metal memory and wanted to spring out just a bit, as I was heating them up to use the 309 SS rod to tack them in place. Luckily they went the same way.

    I still have to smooth out the welds, and polish the header, as well as weld on the 3-in-one pipe collectors, and weld stubs to bolt on a custom aluminum heat shield. The heat shield will support the heater and AC hoses, and keep the heat away from the single barrel carbs on the intake manifold.

    I took a lot more pictures, but held them back, because these tell the story a lot better.

    I took this one on the basement model that I started with back in the winter.
    I6_Header_Progress_1.jpg

    These are on the engine block, about 6:00 PM CST, here in Winnipeg, Canada.

    The starter will be clear by about 1" at the top, and end, and 5" at the bottom.
    I6_Header_Progress_2.jpg

    This one shows how much clear space there is from the header to the inner fender. (I have a nice replacement for that rusty section at the Strut tower).
    I6_Header_Progress_3.jpg

    This one shows how they line up along the length of the block:
    I6_Header_Progress_4.jpg

    The 2-in-one collector is mounted on flanges at both ends. I did that to allow me to change the angle up to the ends of the 2 tri-y collectors. Both sets of end flanges get fastened with Stainless Steel Bolts and nuts.
    I6_Header_Progress_5.jpg

    I allowed a 1/2" more length on each of the 6 pipes to fit them into the tri-Y collectors. I didn't get fancy with tapered end tips, they are all cut at 90 degrees. and they fit fairly well. I'll put an exhaust gasket on tomorrow to make the final alignment and weld up the tri-Y collectors and tweak the pipe fitment.

    Once the Tri-Y collectors are welded on, the header is one unit.

    I tried imagining how a guy could do this with a one-piece flange. Definitely not an easy task. Cleaning up the welds and tubes would be almost as difficult as it was jigging up the pieces to tack together.

    OK Mike, let me have it! (y)

    The front (1) and rear (6) tubes are 18.5". 2 and 5 are 17.75", 3 and 4 are 17.5".

    There's only tube 3 that is creating a bit of downward pressure on 1 and 2 but I can still thumb-turn the bolts into the head. I could grind off a bit of an angle down into the collector.

    All in all, its a patience job. Once I clean it up, it will even look pretty. But for a first time, I'm pleased as punch!(y)

    I know I have to plan for a hot air choke tube into the center carb, and I was thinking of doing that at the juncture of ports 3 and 4. The stock manifold just runs a steel tube through it, close to Port 3.

    I have no air pumps, EGR or catalytic plumbing on it.

    Opinions welcome.
     
    Last edited: Jul 6, 2015
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  2. Stormin' Norman

    Stormin' Norman Well-Known Member

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    Once I clean up the seams, I'll list the pipe section lengths and angles, including the 'twists' on the pipes that were.

    The handiest 'tool' in all of this was the cardboard collars I made at different angles, when I started with the basement mock-up. Since the SS pipe was 1.5" OD, the cardboard mailer tube had to be 1.6 ID to slip on snuggly, or the angles would have been sloppy.

    I used my Bosch Table saw with all the sawdust cleaned off, inside and out, with a 6" diameter metal cutting wheel, and made an extension for my mitre gauge from a 12" piece of 1/4" aluminum angle. I wore thick work gloves, a breather mask and a shield and long sleeve shirt.

    I tried my angle grinder, but I had to use my bench grinder to get the angles right.

    A chop saw would have been better, and I didn't want to mess up my mitre saw.

    If I do this again. I'll use my MIG welder, or the SF6 rod from http://muggyweld.com/index.php?route=common/home

    I think the muggyweld would cost less, even though the rod is a bit pricey. The hydro bill to weld these sections up would go sky-high. One or 2 bottles of propane, low temps, and much cleaner.

    So, after Mike gives me a critique and his very instructive guidance on wrapping this up, I'll start the cleanup, and list the pipe dimensions.
     
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  3. Silvertwinkiehobo

    Silvertwinkiehobo "Everything that breaks starts with 'F.'"

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    Damn, I missed this post. The funny thing about the Dana I knew when I served, was that he was a member of the Sioux Nation, and a great-great-great-great grandson of Sitting Bull; he showed me his family's genealogy book for the Sioux Nation.
     
  4. Silvertwinkiehobo

    Silvertwinkiehobo "Everything that breaks starts with 'F.'"

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    It's a good thing that side of the engine has room to make the collectors; I remember my '81 Fairmont had a 'preburn' cat right at the bottom of the exhaust manifold, Toyota-style. Damn thing was as big as a coffee can. And when I took it out, it was totally coming apart. No wonder my engine burned up.
     
  5. The Premier

    The Premier Well-Known Member

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    Hi Norm, you have nailed it (y) The lengths you have worked to will easily flow 250 hp (and some) so the size of this header will not exceed you engine specs but because the primary pipes are not as long as you had originally planned, you will notice a very strong mid range responce. I can see how you dialled in your rotations withought the use of a bender which is not easy (even when writing bending programs), so you have done very well. If you take the time to smooth out all of the welds before you make the final weld to form your tri-y connection then these will look a treat. I can't wait to see them once they are metal finshed up smooth. Keep it up, cheers Mike.
     
  6. Stormin' Norman

    Stormin' Norman Well-Known Member

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    I can see why people buy ready made headers.:biglaugh:

    Well, Mike, I owe you many thanks, not only for the parts you sent me, but for the best sense of victory in a challenge that I've felt since I won a rally race in College, against the College Dean!

    What a feeling!

    So, in true Engineering terms the result meets all four guidelines: From, Fit, Function and FUGLY! :LOL:

    All the fasteners are Stainless Steel. A small fortune, but the system won't be touched with a cutting torch, if I need to change the clutch.
    I6_Assembly_1.jpg

    I6_Header Installed_1.jpg

    I6_Header Pics_1.jpg

    I6_Header Pics_5.jpg

    The Mustang and Capri models with the Ford 3.3 I6, also came with an Electric Choke, no Choke Stove to install! For some reason the Fairmonts and Zephyrs, didn't have that UNLESS they had an Oil Gauge.

    I'll have to fabricate a hot air cap over the header for the Air Cleaner's hot air duct.

    I used new, stock exhaust components after the header from the exhaust pipe to the tailpipe, all V8 grade 2" pipe.

    Since I also welded in new subframes, none of the header is visible from the side, nor is the stock system at the rear.
     
  7. Stormin' Norman

    Stormin' Norman Well-Known Member

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    Well, after a few months of driving, I can report that my gas mileage is up, and she's got a lot more low-end torque. I haven't burnt any rubber, but I can drive up a fairly steep bridge incline over the railroad stockyard under 30 MPH (less than her peak torque RPMs of 1800) and still accelerate with my utility trailer hooked up and loaded with the donor car's body tin! Really happy. She idles smoothly at 600 RPMs and 18 PSI of vacuum.

    AND I found a better way to shape the pipes:
    Building Custom Headers
    http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/building-custom-headers.961/

    My crude welds have held up. I found a local tube bender (the only one), so I want to get another set of the flanges. Hope Mike (The Premier) is still around. I installed a new starter with the swap to a 4-speed. Its both longer and fatter than the one for the automatic transmission. I had to change one primary pipe for the length, to clear the starter's power cable. But if I ever have to change the starter, I'd have to remove the A/C pump, and the manifold to get the starter out.

    Anyway, I'm very pleased, and BIG thanks to Mike! :1st: :cheers: :tiphat:
     
  8. Poison_Ivy

    Poison_Ivy Dogzilla Fan

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    Headers can only improve horsepower, torque and fuel milage. All they do is to allow the engine to breath better. There's no magic to it. Just physics. For now, those headers will do. You might want to weld together a set of equal-lengthed tubing headers without sharp rectangular curving, for future use, though. That's when you'll notice the most dramatic improvement. Especially, when you simultaneously free the induction from restriction:

    [​IMG]
     
  9. pvan

    pvan Well-Known Member

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    They turned out great Norm. Good for more than just bragging rights!

    When I did the headers on my '67 Commuter I purchased a ready-made kit of bends from Speedway. I worked out all of the angles using 2" aluminum flexible heat riser tubing. I would work out the routing for each section, match it to one of the bends, cut with a Sawzall, and tack it in place.

    It was slow and tedious process, but I only had to change maybe 2 or 3 pieces after they were tacked up. If you are working on a budget, you can save some money by buying used headers for your bends and collectors (and mounting plates if you're lucky).

    With a little patience, it's amazing what you can accomplish!

    P1010063.JPG
     

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