Carb/Distributor Swap?

Discussion in 'General Automotive Tech' started by TheSafariKidd, Aug 3, 2019.

  1. KevinVarnes

    KevinVarnes Well-Known Member

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    Cheaper? Maybe. I don't know what the market looks like for 350/400 transmissions with the BOP bellhousing pattern. Less awesome? Definitely. I hate not having OD for long distance highway driving on my '85 LTD.
     
  2. TheSafariKidd

    TheSafariKidd Member

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    I'll start scouting around for a 350/400 trans i guess. OD isn't a huge factor for me because i intend on making a street sleeper.

    Im going with 410 gears, stall converter and tweaking this 445 if i get it for sure. Which ever engine i go with i have the same goal.
    I won't be doing a lot of highway or long distance trips so the OD wouldn't be a gain for me.
     
  3. OldFox

    OldFox Curmudgeon

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    The 400 is probably the stronger trans. I got one in the deal when I bought my 455. I'm not going to use it when I swap engines because, at my age, I don't want the hassle of re-doing the cross member. It's not just a bolt in deal.
     
  4. TheSafariKidd

    TheSafariKidd Member

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    It's not a direct bolt up? What vehicle/engine do you have?
    Thanks.
     
  5. OldFox

    OldFox Curmudgeon

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    80 Catalina Safari, 301 engine, 350 trans. All Pontiac engines have the same external dimensions, except the 301 has a shorter deck height. Any BOP trans will bolt to the engines. The 400 was never a factory option for the 79-90 cars. However, it is my understanding that the 400 is longer than the 350 and has a different mounting pad, meaning a different or modified X member, shortening the driveshaft, and possible linkage modifications. Joe or Kevin are the experts on these and can probably clarify it more.
     
  6. TheSafariKidd

    TheSafariKidd Member

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    Oh ok i see what you mean.
    God the 301 is probaly the worst engine ever produced by any manafactor!
    I read where they turbocharged the 301 in the Trans Ams and it made it worse because the compression was so low they could barely pass other vehicles on the highway.

    One article said these turds would only turn high 16s-17s in the 1/4 mile but were factory advertised differently.
     
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  7. OldFox

    OldFox Curmudgeon

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    The turbo blocks were beefed up over the passenger car ones. In 79 and 80, they started putting them in passenger cars to use up existing stock. Mine is one of those. Mine had some bad cams lobes when I got it, so I put in a low end torque, towing cam. From a 40mph kickdown, I would put it up against most cars. It sets you back in the seat and doesn't kick out of passing gear until it's beyond the physical capability of the speedo, but it is a slug off the line.
     
  8. TheSafariKidd

    TheSafariKidd Member

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    Nice, sounds like any engine has capabilities then. When my Gramps was alive he had a Lemans 68 possibly?, that had a inline overhead cam 6cyl with a long tube header, aluminum intake and a Q-jet, 4spd.

    Man did that thing run hard!
     
  9. KevinVarnes

    KevinVarnes Well-Known Member

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    I'm certainly no expert, but OldFox speaks the truth. The mounting pad is about 2.5" further back on the 200-4R than the 400. Driveshaft length would depend on which tailshaft 400 trans you got.
    https://www.tciauto.com/trans-dim#TH400

    You could probably back off the rear gears a bit. I don't know if you'll need gears that short with the 455.

    I'd still vote for upgrading the 200-4R, but that's just me. First and second are shorter in a 200-4R compared to the 400 as well.
     
  10. TheSafariKidd

    TheSafariKidd Member

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    Thats nice to know about the trans gearing, i forgot to put that in the equation. Its all going to be trial and error for me the first time around so i appreciate all the tips!

    I was trying to figure in my wagons weight with the 410 gears, stall converter, 245/50/15 tires (rears) and the 5.7L Vortec final hp/torque if i end up running that.
     
  11. TheSafariKidd

    TheSafariKidd Member

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    Has anyone here ever driven their wagon throughout the winter months and if so, how do they preform in snow? Any tire suggestions for snow that work well on these wagons?

    Do to circumstances beyond my control, i may have to drive the wagon this winter .
    Thank You!
     
  12. Silvertwinkiehobo

    Silvertwinkiehobo "Everything that breaks starts with 'F.'"

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    Weight is your friend. Go to Home Depot, grab three or four Tube Sand bags, put them in the back. Then find a decent new set of cable chains, a snow broom, a can of spray de-icer, a can of starting fluid, and have a shop check and possibly redo your cooling system protection, try to get it to protect as low as it can go. Invest in a block heater that can be installed in place of a freeze plug, and a pan heater that sticks to the oil pan. If the winter gets as cold as they say it will this year, you're gonna need them.
     
  13. TheSafariKidd

    TheSafariKidd Member

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    Thanks for the tips! Ive been looking at the Blizzak tires and they seem real aggressive on ice and snow, so I'll probaly go with them.

    I think my wagon already has some kind of engine heater.
    There is a plug in cord mounted to the bottom of the front passenger side frame under the bumper.
    I'll definitely get the sand tubes too.
    I've started making an emergency survival kit aswel.
     
  14. Silvertwinkiehobo

    Silvertwinkiehobo "Everything that breaks starts with 'F.'"

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    If it has a heater already, you're a step ahead as long as it works. Test it out first, using a power strip with a circuit breaker.
     
  15. TheSafariKidd

    TheSafariKidd Member

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    Will do Silver, I've heard horror stories about heaters burning cars to the ground. My neighbor swears by the ones that splice into the heater core hoses?
     

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