1963 Ford Country Sedan --- I need a new tank!

Discussion in 'General Automotive Tech' started by nejeff, Mar 20, 2022.

  1. nejeff

    nejeff New Member

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    Just bought this wagon. I know I needed a new tank so off to Rock Auto and they list F57D from Spectra. Picture does not look right. Check same year Country Squire and they list same tank. Take a shot and it comes in, not the right tank for a wagon. They state it fits wagon in description. Neither of the two options actually fit a wagon. Help! I contacted Spectra directly, their description specifically says DOES NOT FIT STATION WAGON. I don't believe they have the correct one either. Now what? Every search on the internet brings me back to the one that does not fit
     
  2. HotRodRacer

    HotRodRacer Moderator Staff Member Moderator

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    That is a tough one. In all my catalogs, I have not seen a tank for the wagon listed anywhere. Someone else may have a lead on one, but you may have to have one custom fabricated.

    Scott's Hotrods is one possible source - https://www.scottshotrods.com/fuel-tanks/

    Good luck!
     
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  3. 60Courior

    60Courior Member

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    I just went through this with my 60 Ford Courier wagon. Nobody seems to carry tanks for wagons. Pulled my tank off to clean it and opened a big can of worms. It was ugly. Ended up going to the local radiator shop to see if he could save it. He put it in his cleaning tank and left it in there for the weekend. Came out even uglier with pinholes in it. He ended up using a tank sealer on the inside and a product he uses to repair leaks without pulling the tank on the outside. Got the tank back in the car but haven't put any gas in it yet. Still ugly looking but hopefully it will hold gas.
     
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  4. Wagonrodder

    Wagonrodder Well-Known Member

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    On my 68 Mercury Montego nothing was available...from my experience its nearly impossible to find gas tanks for most vintage wagons...none left in the bone yards, no one makes reproductions...I have a thread on this site of my experience fixing mine, titled "68 Merc leaky gas tank" if you want to check out how my experience went, your lucky if you have a repairable tank..sending units are pretty much the same way, hard to find..i used a sender from another model and modified it to work on my application.. wishing you the best!
     
    Last edited: Mar 21, 2022
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  5. nejeff

    nejeff New Member

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    I read your thread. Do you know what the process was? Did they weld in new metal? Did they seal the inside also?
     
  6. Wagonrodder

    Wagonrodder Well-Known Member

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    Both the entire inside and the outside were coated with their product ...i recall they said they use thicker material first pushing it thru the holes then its coated inside and out and cured..if you go on their website they describe the process much better than i currently am...i will say im confidant from my experience they were the place to go...check out their website, they show some examples of their work, in my case it was fast with great communication and im on my 3rd full tank now with no issues what so ever...im quite happy with their work...im under the impression they are one of the best..hope this helps!
    P.S. as i recall they warranty their work for life..
     
    Last edited: Mar 21, 2022
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  7. nejeff

    nejeff New Member

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    With shipping its a bit pricey. I think I have to come up with something on my own. Thats Scotts will make you a new one from scratch for about $700. I think I'll need to try and save this one first
     
  8. nejeff

    nejeff New Member

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    You can buy one for a 57-59 Ford Wagon readily. Not for the 62-64's though. Frustrating
     
  9. Wagonrodder

    Wagonrodder Well-Known Member

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    Perhaps a person could try JB weld marine epoxy (if i remember correctly its impervious to gas), on the pin holes, then get a gas tank recoat kit from somewhere like eastwood or wherever and give that a try? (of course safety wise welding in new metal would be best) :)
     
  10. Silvertwinkiehobo

    Silvertwinkiehobo "Everything that breaks starts with 'F.'"

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    The problem with welding is that the corroded area has lost metal, not just where the pinholes are, so it's likely too thin to weld. You would have to have a patch made and properly welded in to replace the corroded section or sections.
     
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  11. OldFox

    OldFox Curmudgeon

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    Back in the day, you took your tank to a radiator shop. They tanked it and then soldered patches over the holes. Maybe that's a lost art today now that radiators are made from aluminum instead of brass. I can't remember ever replacing a tank other than one which had been damaged.
     
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  12. Silvertwinkiehobo

    Silvertwinkiehobo "Everything that breaks starts with 'F.'"

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    Those were the old days. But soldering is now a lost art, especially in body work, because of the use of Bondo, and welding because of the reduced costs of welders.
     
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  13. nejeff

    nejeff New Member

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    The tank came off today. It was even rusty on top, already found ( or created) some pinholes.

    I have a question, If I use a rust inhitor or restorer type paint on the outside can I then put my fiberglass / gasoline resistant 2 part epoxy over it or should I patch the outside first and then use a paint over the top of it.

    When all repairs or reinforcements are completed on the outside I will tackle the interior. Probably straight Por-15 clean and reaseal.

    I have searched nationwide, there are no tanks that I can locate. I'll give this a go and see what happens. I am going to carefully record all dimensions and see if I can possible make something else work for the down the road. I read a very old listing for one of these wagons and he stated he had replaced original tank with another model tank ( of course did not mention which one) and the ad I was reading was like 10 years old.

    I am sure I could have one made if needed but it would be pricey for sure.
     
  14. nejeff

    nejeff New Member

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    Essentially what I plan to do, should be fun
     
  15. HotRodRacer

    HotRodRacer Moderator Staff Member Moderator

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    Most of the time for best bonding, you should make sure the exterior is free from dirt, dust, grease, oil, etc., etc. before applying the epoxy, to achieve the best possible adhesion. For that reason, I clean the outside, probably even scuff all around the leaking area with a scotch brite pad (they are non-metallic, so no danger of sparking), then apply the epoxy.

    Once it is set and cured, then I would paint over that. It will also give you a more uniform paint look that way.

    Good luck! Let us know how it turns out!
     

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