OK, still lookin for a T&C, found 1: 383 2BBL, runs/drives rust in wheelstorage and lower 1/4's. needs a starter and front end work. He's askin 2500. is it fair? Have not seen it yet, but will get better info then. Oh 213k miles. MPJ
Yup...need the year and some options and overall condition....I paid $1200 for my 68 T/C wagon...completly rust free and only 76,000 original miles...BUT...had a missing motor and tranny....
Eye of the beholder, John. What year? 383's were a solid block, and I think 440 parts are compatible. The 360 and 400 were a different setup, IIRC.
Most of the big block parts are interchangeable....less the intakes, and dizzy and the short block coponents...unless your planning on building a stroker...Hmmm...440 crank in a 400 = 451 stroker.....:2_thumbs_up_-_anima A 360 is a small block so totaly different animal.
If the car has that many miles then it's probably retty beat...so complete suspension rebuild will be needed...plus interior work most likely and then the rust repair...and that's always worse then it appears. So I'd say $2500 is a bit too much.....offer him a $1000 and see were it goes. There have been some nice ones on e-bay that have not sold for more than $3000...so I'd keep shopping.
As some of the others said price sounds high at 213K miles if its all original you are looking at rebuilding just about everything mechanical plus the body work.
I'd sell you my '80 LeBaron T & C M-body woody, since I've got the '58 and the '56 going on. Email me is you think you might be interested. Make ya a screamin' deal. I want to get serious on my '56,especially, so the '80 really needs to find an appreciative new home. Always an Oklahoma City car, no rust, 225 auto. Let me know, thanks.
It's a 71!! and I'm trying to see it this comming Monday. I think it is "original" so I'm ready for some work. Pat, sorry I'm only looking for 69-72, and maybe just maybe a 73. Here's some more questions; Does anyone make 1/4's or patch pannels?, how about the woodgrain sticker sets, and last how well does the interior plastic hold up, seats and headliners are easy, molded plastic must be hard to find. My dream is to clean it up mostly original, 383 gets 4BBl and dual exhaust and maybe headers, the interior gets new leather seats done on the original frames in the original pattern and color. The outside is painted and bumpers re-dipped, a 300 style hidden headlights grill goes in (all the best cars have hidden headlights!!!!, just my opinion) and maybe, just maybe instead of the woodgrain stickers- ghost flame/woodgrain in it's place. What'cha think?
Panels: http://www.rustrepair.com/ http://www.probodyparts.com/ http://www.replica-plastics.com/ Woodgrain Interior stuff is tougher. BUT!: http://www.dashboardrestorations.com.au/index.htm http://www.dashboardrestorations.com/index.htm Other exterior finishes: http://www.phoenixgraphix.com/index.htm http://www.stencilsandstripes.com/index.asp http://www.stripeman.com/3m-woodgrain-vinyl.htm Mouldings can be tough, but you could chase down NOS or make your own, or refinish the ones you get: DIY on clearcoating aluminum trim: http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/can-you-clearcoat-aluminum-732.html This site has articles on the How-tos from worldwide magazines on every automotive cleanup job there is. In Automotive Interiors, for instance, there's a reference to Fine Woodworking Magazine's article on Dash Woodgrain replacement: http://www.nleindex.com/index.php?pID=HTDI&sID=BrowseIndex&tID=E/86 New seat leather huh? Even the 300 leather. http://www.autoupholsterykits.com/chryslerseat.html Sounds like a great plan. Have fun.
OK, saw the T&C. The man who is selling it was there when I arrived, he was getting ready to start it. After some gas priming and a jump the 383 2BBL roared to life, narry smoke out the tailpipe!! She took a while to warm up and then settled int a smooth idle. She had an exhaust manifold leak, but otherwise was quiet. The exhaust was rotted out in some places so there was some of that noise. The car was beautiful.... BUT that awful car cancer "rust" was pretty bad. The 1/4's below the molding were both in need of replace. The doglegs behind the back door were both severley rotted away. This was the part that most scared me, until I found the sway bar mount on the passenger side was ripped out of it's frame. Right now I am passing on htis car BUT it still has me thinking. good pionts; Black interior, mint door pannels,(the pads need replaced but they are available) the doors all shut well and the body is mostly straight, back seat was good, hedlier was down but I would re-do anyway, and now the bad, the rust, the sway bar, a crack in the dash on the drivers side (liveable) the weatherstipping on the back tailgate was bad, the car needs tires and brakes, (hupcaps were good) the front bumper had a dent and the grill was a mess, the trim on the front passenger fender was dented badly and will need replaced. So I think I will pass unless I get a MUCH better price. Gentlemen (and ladies?) you thoughts? John
From your description I'd have told him to have a nice day and never looked back...if you could get it for $100 then maybe... but the rust is the scary part. I've restored rusty cars in the past and they ALWAYS cost ten times more to repair then to buy the same car rust free. Your intial layout for a rust free car will be higher...cost of the car + shipping etc .....but in the end you will spend way less. Keep looking, with the global market slowdown there will be lots of bargains to be had as people begin to feel the pinch and start selling off those car that they swore, "I'll never sell" Patience, patience, patience......
