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Discussion in 'General Automotive Tech' started by Slidemanic, Oct 11, 2016.
Sounds like they got a few things figured out by 73. Very nice that a simple solution was found.
I took a look in the Motor book, and it's mostly just bare-bones info. But I still think the fuse/CB was the problem. Let us know if there are any more performance drop-offs.
Could be that (my shop manual says it should be a 30 amp C.B) or loose wiring or corroded connections, even possibly if its just the blower motor quitting the brushes have finally worn out, but I'd check the plug ends before diving into replacing the blower motor... its a bear to get to without cutting a hole in the inner fender well like the shop manual tells you to do.
My parts guys at the local Ford dealer came through with another obsolete part,a D3AZ-14526-C Circuit Breaker! When I took out the original 30 Amp CB,it was HOT! Put in the new one & AC seems to work better,or is it just my imagination?
It's funny,but I don't think the climate control system was sophisticated enough yet back then to cut in the compressor on the defrost setting,but if you put the AC on full blast it clears the windshield anyway,as happened tonight driving home after a quick stop for shopping--I could hardly see the road! Up to the red light by a freeway offramp merge on my right and boy did I need vision then! BLAST AC! and done.
Yeah, no one thought about that yet. IIRC, it started with computer controls, so early '80s?
Wouldn't you want a slight ac on, not necessarily full on cold, but enough to dehumidify the cabin?
That's the idea of running it on DEF, as the system won't be as efficient during a colder, more humid day as it would on a hot day. You have to have a temp differential between inside and out for the A/C to do anything.
Hmmm my '64 caddy and '77 merc wagon both have the a/c come on to defrost the windshield. Of course I've never driven them in the winter LOL