What Next? 1973 Ford Contry Sedan

Discussion in 'General Automotive Tech' started by Slidemanic, Oct 11, 2016.

  1. Slidemanic

    Slidemanic Well-Known Member

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    The wheel repair place has the first of the three wheels--we'll see how that goes. Meanwhile,the car runs OK,but that lumpy uneven idle still remains. All I can think of is vacuum leaks,but I thought I checked 'em all. And--when it's cold the engine spits back and won't take much accelerator. Choke is closed as it should be,cold idle is OK once you kick it off the top step. I thought I had the mixture close to where it ought to be,but I am no expert. Once the engine warms up,it is just fine,although the lumpy idle is a constant. Is it the crazy firing order on these 351C/M/400s? I sure don't know.
     
  2. Silvertwinkiehobo

    Silvertwinkiehobo "Everything that breaks starts with 'F.'"

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    The accelerator pump might not be pumping enough when the throttle's opened (the spitting is carb backfire, the indicator that the AFM is dead lean). You have the 2100 or 2150, there are adjustments. I'll look it up, email pics.
     
  3. Silvertwinkiehobo

    Silvertwinkiehobo "Everything that breaks starts with 'F.'"

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    What's your email? I thought I had it, but I only have your mailing address.
     
  4. Slidemanic

    Slidemanic Well-Known Member

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  5. Silvertwinkiehobo

    Silvertwinkiehobo "Everything that breaks starts with 'F.'"

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    Page photos are sent. Hopefully, they will help; they certainly helped with Babe's replacement carb.
     
  6. Slidemanic

    Slidemanic Well-Known Member

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    Thank you!
     
  7. Silvertwinkiehobo

    Silvertwinkiehobo "Everything that breaks starts with 'F.'"

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  8. 63Fowagon

    63Fowagon Well-Known Member

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    And now idle problem ? The dealer should have with the timing gear set change made all adjustments and test drove car before you got it . Now you are going to void their work by trying to correct yourself . You must love this car for the amount of money invested and still have numerous problems . When will it end ? Feel for ya .
     
  9. Slidemanic

    Slidemanic Well-Known Member

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    The hot idle is no different than it was before the new chain/gears/damper--that is to say,not smooth. The cold idle is weird--pops/spits back/won't take throttle inputs. Once warmed up and on the range--just wonderful--WOT--fantastic! I thought I had the idle richness right,hot idle was 625/500 like in the book. I still wonder if the different firing order on these 351/400 engines is the cause. When I figure this out,then I'll have to tackle the fumes through the heater issue,but by then it'll be summer. And the fact that they fixed the leaking seal doesn't mean that the oil on the hot parts doesn't still smell.
     
  10. Silvertwinkiehobo

    Silvertwinkiehobo "Everything that breaks starts with 'F.'"

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    In the pics I sent you, there should be instructions on checking and setting the choke butterfly and the pulloff. The way you describe the sputtering/coughing, it sounds like it's too lean on cold start. The member on Ranchero.us I bought this 2150 from for Babe, he lives in SoCal, so the choke was open for warmer average temps, and high idle was way too slow, so I have those set right, plus a new choke thermostat. Once I get power to it, the choke system should work correctly.
     
  11. Grizz

    Grizz Are we there yet???

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    I don't know much, but I would agree with 63 fowagon in that the dealer should have test driven the thing when they did the chain, so I would bet it's something simple, maybe that the carb just needs adjusting. Have you tried opening the butterfly on the choke just a hair? I had a 72 mustang that was running rough all around and the fix was first thing in the morning when the car was coldest opened the butterfly and adjusted it back down on top of a mini flat head screw driver to where it was barely open. I think the mixtures needed to be tweaked a little bit after that as well. Like I said I don't know much, in fact nothing compared to most of these people, but i feel like it's something simple. (Ain't got no gas in it!) hahaha! Good luck
     
  12. Slidemanic

    Slidemanic Well-Known Member

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    Oh jeez--now the wheel people tell me that the wheel they have cannot be unbent. This was the "Spare never down" wheel,so I am thinking manufacturing defect.
    And the fumes coming through the heater--what is up with that? It smells like the exhaust goes right through the heater box. I sealed the box when I replaced the heater core two years ago. And it seems to come and go. I am mystified.
     
    Last edited: Mar 9, 2017
  13. Slidemanic

    Slidemanic Well-Known Member

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    So,a while back,a snowblower broke the left low beam headlight. I found two at O'Reilly's. They are 5006s,with a bulb inside. Later,the left one broke,cause unknown. I got another 5006 from NAPA and replaced it. Now it is cracked! Same location. What the heck is going on? I'd like to have the original 4000 headlight--those were never a problem.
     
  14. Slidemanic

    Slidemanic Well-Known Member

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    NAPA was kind to me and replaced the 5006 headlight free. Hope it stays intact. I drove my son to college in Boston last night,crankin' that 400 @ 70 per through the Big Brother transponder tolls (no stopping),>200 miles out and back,13.39 mpg & wobbly rear wheels. We were heavy laden,air suspension which @ 60 psi works fantastic. I'm supposed to get the two new wheels Wednesday,Tuesday's a blizzard. When nicer weather comes,I want to work on rough idle,idle mixture,& cold idle (which will change with the warmer weather).
     
  15. Silvertwinkiehobo

    Silvertwinkiehobo "Everything that breaks starts with 'F.'"

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    It's possible the HVAC intake is getting exhaust. Check the hood seal gasket at the firewall, making sure it's not rotted and squished. If you switch to MAX A/C and the smell goes away, that's the proof it's coming in the HVAC intake, as MAX switches from fresh air to recirculation.
     

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