What have you done to your wagon lately? (Let's keep the thread going!)

Discussion in 'General Station Wagon Discussions' started by Dogbone, Jul 25, 2011.

  1. BlueVista

    BlueVista Well-Known Member Charter Member

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    For the amount of work done and the results it sounds like a deal in my opinion.
     
  2. MAK

    MAK Well-Known Member

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    ok everyone, decided to take the car to my store in Staunton, VA today, an associate has a 93 Roadmaster wagon, everything is fine went to leave - no power, no clicking, no lights - nothing. Ok knew battery was questionable so down to Advanced Auto to get a new 1 (not my 1st choice but closest) and of course it's raining. put new in - now have lights and clicking , but won't start -Call triple A! don't own a 32 year (even with 56400 miles) without some kind of road side assistance
    Guy (kid 25 years old) shows up, sees that it's a new battery, calls his boss - does this thing on the solenoid, boss tells him that the starter's locked. He is going to jack the car up to "bang" on the starter - I suggested that he jump off the solenoid. doesn't know how - I show him - starts right up. can't even begin to express the sheer joy in his face now that he doesn't have to jack the car and grovel in the wet .
    Drove back to the dealer - need to get a starter - I be thinking
    It's been long, long time since I've had to deal with any car breakdown issues but ahh the memories certainly come screaming back
    oh the joys of driving old cars!
     
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  3. Silvertwinkiehobo

    Silvertwinkiehobo The Lost Lamb

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    Hell, even new cars have that problem times a thousand, now that most power circuits are "Mother May I" circuits, you now have to figure out why the damned computer refuses your request to start the car. But the first thing anyone that owns a GM vehicle needs to look at on a no crank no start is the condition of the battery cable ends and the special bolts that hold the ends on to the battery terminals. More often, a no crank is just corrosion, and some cleaning (after removing the bolts from the cable ends) will bring a vehicle back to life.
     
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  4. kevdupuis

    kevdupuis Membrane

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    Suspension is finished, a final $1200.00 dollars for the lower ball joints, alignment and 5 new tires (including spare) and all I have to worry about crawling under the Mercedes for is to reach the oil drain plug when I change the oil.
    YAY.
     
  5. 101Volts

    101Volts Well-Known Member

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    Lately on my Turbo Diesel Suburban ("Kind of a Wagon") I bought replacement oil cooler lines since the stock ones are prone to failure; they're held on by a little C Clip which could give way. I pulled the SUV in the garage, jacked it up on the driver side then removed the grille, bumper filler, bumper (though it wasn't necessary,) front driveshaft, oil filter adapter and lines off the engine block and then it was time to get the lines off the cooler; I broke the cooler. Now I have to find a quality part and I'm pondering whether to get the one from Leroy Diesel ($85) or an ACDelco part ($145.)

    Later on after this job's finished I plan to put extra oil filtration on my vehicle like this:

    [​IMG]

    I'm not sure how worn the engine is as it sits so I'm hoping to protect it better this way.
     
  6. Silvertwinkiehobo

    Silvertwinkiehobo The Lost Lamb

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    That is an excellent setup; if you have the money, do the work now to incorporate and install that setup, but be forewarned, do not install the attaching bracket to anything but the engine, or you'll have a noise nightmare from the engines rattly sound transmitting itself into the body. Bolt the bracket to the engine, you'll be a lot happier. As for those stupid fittings, you should be able to use the lines in the filter install kit to replace them. They are a dumb design.
     
  7. 101Volts

    101Volts Well-Known Member

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    I purchased the bypass filtration kit last year. Thanks for the forewarning about the noise, now I'm pondering where I could mount everything; initially I was going to mount it on the frame near the driver seat area like what's pictured below even though there's very little space between the exhaust pipe and front driveshaft. I was also going to put heat-shield tubing around the bypass lines given how close the exhaust is and probably will still do that.

    Below is pictured not only bypass filtration lines but also an oil cooler line which has some protective tubing wrapped around it. (Not my pic.)

    [​IMG]
     
  8. 101Volts

    101Volts Well-Known Member

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    To make a more on topic Station Wagon reply I took the Mercury out today for the first time this year; the winter salt that was on the roads is gone. I only drove a few miles and when I got back the car was stuttering at idle like it was ready to stall out, I'm guessing the gasoline's just old.

    Wagon Items To Work On This Year:

    Soon:

    Replace T.V. Cable Grommet;
    Change Oil and Filter.

    Later:

    Replace All Grease Boots;
    Replace Tires.

    I've been looking for a LRR (Low Rolling Resistance) Whitewall tire and haven't found one yet. Maybe I should go up to 215/75R15s instead of using the 215/70s? Most of my driving's going to be closer to HWY travel so that should make the engine rev less at cruising speed. Still, I haven't driven this car a lot since purchase (Under 4k miles since August 2014) and maybe it'll be better to just buy a cheaper but good tire. I only want whitewalls on this car though. :)
     
  9. Silvertwinkiehobo

    Silvertwinkiehobo The Lost Lamb

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    It's not just tire width that determines your tire's performance; inflation pressure, balance, alignment and road conditions all determine tire performance. LRR tires are just not made for older cars, as they're generally engineered for one particular platform (such as a Leaf or Prius) that's newer. You do want a good highway tire that gives at least 50K in its lifespan. Then, depending on what the tire's max pressure for max loading is, you generally go a from a few to several PSI below that max pressure, and the old rule of different pressures front to back does not apply anymore. So, let's say you have the Clambake Differing Seasons All-Season radial in 215/70/15, and it carries a rating of 1100 Lbs. max weight at 35 PSI. So, I would inflate those tires to 30 PSI, including the spare, and limit what I put in the car, unless I raise the pressure to 35 PSI. Now, if the tire has a max pressure of 44 PSI, I would go 36 PSI all around. Doing so gives a good wear pattern to the tires, an even contact patch size across the 4 tires, and unless you run a piece of debris that cuts the tire, you have good stability if one tire is losing air.
     
  10. MAK

    MAK Well-Known Member

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    Ok - as I mentioned on the 3/31 post - car wouldn't start, got it back to the dealer, I said starter, they said solenoid - ok I deferred to them - got a new solenoid. Picked it up on 4/6 drive down the street 1/4 mile to a Rite-aid - came back out started the car - and the screeching was crazy - called dealer said here I come, got half way there, came to a red light and smoke is pouring out from the left side - not good - then car quit - no power. It's 4:30pm traffic even here in Harrisonburg, VA was
    heavy and I'm stuck at a major intersection with a 2 ton car. Called dealer he told me they would look at it as soon as I got it there - BS - you call the tow company and you come get it - they did. Starter was seized (duh!) and so now I have a new
    solenoid and a new started TA DA! Also asked them to check the AC - no cold air - found out the car had been converted from R12 - thank god! - so they recharged the system - no cost. Wife will not discuss any of this! I do not bring it up - she wants the all new landscaping - have to figure out both or I might not make 41st year of marriage, ouch!
    now maybe I can start the lower door rust repair - after the landscaping - I think. but it's all good!
    upload_2017-4-15_21-28-18.png
    Stuck at intersection
    upload_2017-4-15_21-29-36.png
    Here comes the hook!
     
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  11. Silvertwinkiehobo

    Silvertwinkiehobo The Lost Lamb

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    Playing hooky was never fun. It sounded (sorry about the pun) like the Bendix drive was stuck in the engaged position, and the solenoid just allowed the drive motor to run down the battery. I ha da customer's Ranger pickup that the solenoid stuck in the engaged position, and those poor battery cables began to smoke from the heat generated. I had to use channel lock pliers to remove the negative terminal, it was so hot.
     
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  12. charli3

    charli3 New Member

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    Replaced the water pump and fixed the brake light wiring.
     
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  13. Caprice Estate

    Caprice Estate Dads 74 Caprice

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    Just recently i added N.O.S. (new original stock) rear bumper guards to my 74 Chev Caprice Estate. I love factory/dealer accessories and can never get enough of them. The next items on my list to get and add to my 74 are left and right remote control exterior mirrors and an original AM FM 8 track stereo in dash player. Cheers. George
     
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  14. charli3

    charli3 New Member

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    I replaced the ring and pinion to solve the creaking issue on the rear differential. My friend helped me because it's a PITA to get the clearances right.
     
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  15. Grizz

    Grizz Are we there yet???

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    Getting it done this week:thumbs2:
     
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