Vacuum Problem 82 Cougar

Anything else that I can check for ya?

 

How about the VCV. Vacuum Control Valve. Three port green in color. When the temperature is above 118*F do all the ports open? I'm assuming yes.

On the canister purge valve there are also three ports. One is from the PCV, one is from the Evap canister hose "T" in the big hose to the carb. These are both larger ports. The center port is a vacuum hose from the middle VCV as shown on the chart. How does this actually function? I'm thinking the top port from the VCV is a diaphram that opens the ports from the PCV to the Evap "T". Is that correct?

Thanks so much for the explanations this is great.:banana:

I've been using Chiltons and Motor Manuals and they avoid the vacuum functionality as pertaining to the engine. They only include tests for major parts such as the bypass valve and such.

 

Now I know why we call our cars with female names. Convoluted plumbling!

I've got your Chilton valve diagram open and the terms drive me nuts. The Haynes, nor Ford manuals, don't have the same abbrevations. So here's some common source info:

The carb for yours is different, so the tweaks and vacuum ports are also, so here's the carb for all of our mid-size Fords from 1971-to 1985. Your specific adjustments, etc, are near the bottom of the page:
http://www.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/15/38/16/0900823d80153816/repairInfoPages.htm

Emission system and Vacuum diagrams
http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiB...15/12/1b/0900823d8015121b.jsp&eraseCrumbs=YES

Not to stray to far off that parallel, let me start with the end... so to speak. The EVAP "T".

Here's the EVAP system:
http://www.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/15/12/50/0900823d80151250/repairInfoPages.htm

The Haynes agrees with those drawings and connections.

?!!! VCV !!!? There's so many of them in that Chilton pic.

All of them are listed on that page right above, and they only have one, but take heart my friend, they even tell you how to diagnose every part of this jungle.

BTW, California Thermactor systems on your car are referred to as TYPE 1 for 1978 models. All others are TYPE 2.

Whew! That saves me a lot of typing. I can't type, as fast as you can read!

Let me know how that works for you, OK?

 

Here's the main Autozone e-manual index for all the cars they list (but not volvos - they never break down ):

http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/repair_info/repair_guide/repair_guide.jsp

 

Good stuff. What is the exact title of that Haynes manual? It's getting worse. I actually broke down on the way home for lunch. It wouldn't run at all when I put it in drive. As it got warmer it got slightly better.

 

Ford Fairmont
Mercury Zephyr

1978 to 1983 2-door, 4-door, Coupe, Station Wagon
Automotive Repair Manual

It was reprinted in 1982, 1983 and 1987

Haynes Catalog Number: 36028 (560)

ISBN: 0 85696 958 3


Haynes have an office in Newbury Park, CA

Haynes North America
861 Lawrence Drive
Newbury Park, CA

zip: 91320

 

Haynes website. Check out who the closest dealer is:
http://www.haynes.com/

 

36028 covers Fairmont/Zephyr
36044 covers 1982 cougars, but the description doesn't mention wagon-specific issues.

On sale at around $22.00, via online, probably less at the stores.

 

The plan

I'm beginning to wonder about not only my methods but the issue at hand.

Yesterday when I left for lunch the car ran bad, very bad. Same issue even with only the AIR system vacuum lines operating. I had disconnected and capped the EGR system vacuum lines.

It was stalling in drive and stalling while driving. Finally after I forced it to drive it warmed up more and didn't stall after about 2 miles. I'd put it in neutral so it wouldn't stall at stop signs.

The Plan.
1. I will disconnect all vacuum sources from the carb to any system.
2. I will only leave connected the distributor at the manifold vacuum.

3. I will drive.
a. If it still stalls I maybe should suspect the muffler. After all this has been an intermittant problem. i.e it drove great going to work and then left me stranded on the side of the road for 20 minutes after leaving for lunch.
b. If it runs good cold and hot I will one at a time test each component and then reconnect the vacuum operated systems one at a time until a fault occurs.

Just as a bit of history.

The ignition system tests good. I installed a new ignition box when the old one tested bad. All the wiring tests good including the ballast resistor wire both hot and cold. I removed the distributor and checked and reinstalled. All is well with the ignition system.

The fuel system is all good. No fouling in the tank or the pickup screen. New fuel pump, new carb, new filter. The carb was replaced because the old one physically broke and could not be repaired. The symptoms have not changed due to the carb replacement.

In the emissions system there is a new EGR valve and new canister purge valve. The Cold Weather Modulators (CWM) both test good in the air cleaner housing. The vacuum retard delay valve checks good. The AIR pump is good as well as the AIR bybass and control valves.

In know I may be repeating myself but I thought I'd review. I know that the problem is simple. Just finding it is an issue. I can't see the forrest for the trees.

 

Choke tube is good?

I raise that one, because you were stalled for 20 minutes on the roadside - cooling down the engine compartment and the choke.

 

Chock tube? Mine has an electric choke. The vacuum pull off works. Then the electric heater for the choke opens the choke in 90-100 seconds. I'm convinced it's not a choke issue. Been there done that as in my other post when the charging problem occured I found that the choke heater wasn't working either due to the green wire red stripe that was loose at the voltage regulator.

Does yours have manifold heat to the choke thus the choke tube?

 

Yeah mine does. The rebuilt engine is from a 1978 Fairmont.

 

No choke stove? :confused:
I'm very curious, especially if it's Holley 1946 carb, to see the choke setup.
Got any pics?

 

Here Andy. Looks almost the same without the tube:
http://www.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/17/fd/83/0900823d8017fd83/repairInfoPages.htm