Vacuum line location-89 mercury colony park

heres a diagram.

 

Though that is a factory diagram, if you do not know how to read it, it just hinders your work.

 

First of all I would like to say thank you for taking the time out of your day and your gas just to do this for me.Its much appreciated.Also thanks for the details..

Now from what I understand what I need to do to my vehicle from pictures posted is move some lines around. As of right now my map sensor hose is going into the big piece in back that has three connections.Its plugged into one of the two smaller lines. The one you said is farther away(E.G.R). So I need to remove this hose and connect the red line I mentioned that isnt connected to anything which is in pictures and connect it to their. Then plug the red line hose into the map sensor. The other red line is going to the FP regulator the one closer to the center which is currently in the correct place. Now I just have to see when i get home from work what the rebuild shop currently has the red stripe hose connected too.

 

Thanks

 

It sounds like the best thing to do, even though they screwed up, is make the shop correct their mistakes. Their claim that they only guarantee the engine itself is utter bunk. They yarded the engine out, they reinstalled it, that makes them responsible for the work done to accomplish it. You need to make it clear to them, that attitude is unacceptable, and they need to redo the connections to make the car run correctly.

 

I agree with you 100 percent. I went their day after i picked it up and argued for a half an hour with the owner. They said they would look at it but don't guarantee anything and it will all be at extra cost.I would have to pay for the labor of just them looking at it plus parts. They are the rudest,unreasonable people I have ever dealt with.Just plain rude. I feel like if they do take it they will do something to vehicle just out of spite...

 

oh,i forgot..the owner told me he thinks my injectors are going bad and that injectors aren't part of a rebuild. I would have to pay for parts and labor and that its not guaranteed that would be the fix.

 

If you have an ohm meter, it is easy enough to ohm the injectors and see if they are bad.

 

Ohming the injectors only tells you if there's an open if the injector's cold. When a rebuilder runs through your set, they do a voltage drop test first. if it passes, then they do the cleaning service, but an injector that fails the voltage drop test is junk. I went through that with my '97 Exploder 5.0L. I didn't want to rely on just the ohms test on the used set I got from PnP, so I had them quickly tested (cost me $40, but at least I know they're all good).

 

Anyway, it's funny he would say that when his shop got the vacuum lines all wrong. You should at least fix what's wrong with the vacuum lines, really easy to do yourself if you have the tools. I can describe what you'd need to do. I just think your driveability problems are their mistakes. You'd be surprised how much better those 5.0Ls run when everything is correctly hooked up and everything else is in good condition.

 

TOTALLY unacceptable! Personally the owner would be walking around with a boot sticking out of his ass. It's not like it's a mid 80's GM with 90 million miles of vacuum lines and a carb.

 

So if I'm reading this right it's just the one laying on the back of the manifold? Looking at Andrews pic, of the three tubes on the top, one big in between the two smaller, it should fit on to one of the smalls. Both the Little tubes on the back should have red vacuum lines. As said before, the one that's off goes to the pressure regulator and then to the manifold, in the pic it's already attached to the regulator just needs to be hooked into the manifold. Hope this helps

 

89Mercury
I feel for you, have been there a couple of times through the years. when I finally got my 85 CP back form the dealer there was a small dent in the rear drivers side from where the tow truck had jacked the car up, because the dealer that I bought it from took a ton of pictures before he shipped it, and the dealer had possession for the car longer than me - he stated that he didn't think they did it but will have it fixed. last time I had an issue it wasn't that easy - fortunately paid by credit card. Have been a retailer for a long time - understanding fair credit laws helps.
If you paid by credit card - look at this site:
https://www.consumer.ftc.gov/articles/0219-disputing-credit-card-charges#quality
Exercising your Rights
To take advantage of the law's consumer protections, you must:

• write to the creditor at the address given for "billing inquiries," not the address for sending your payments, and include your name, address, account number, and a description of the billing error. Use our sample letter.send your letter so that it reaches the creditor within 60 days after the first bill with the error was mailed to you. It’s a good idea to send your letter by certified mail; ask for a return receipt so you have proof of what the creditor received. Include

Complaints About the Quality of Goods and Services
Disputes about the quality of goods and services are not "billing errors," so the dispute procedure doesn’t apply. However, if you have a problem with goods or services you paid for with a credit or charge card, you can take the same legal actions against the card issuer as you can take under state law against the seller.

To take advantage of this protection, you must have made the purchase (it must be for more than $50) in your home state or within 100 miles of your current billing address, and make a good faith effort to resolve the dispute with the seller first.

The dollar and distance limitations don't apply if the seller also is the card issuer — or if a special business relationship exists between the seller and the card issuer.
Copies (not originals) of sales slips or other documents that support your position. Keep a copy of your dispute letter.

If you paid cash - you will have to take him to court - I will tell you from experience if you present a good case with documentation of the facts -( leave emotion out of it) the judge /magistrate will usually rule in your favor, as a merchant I can tell you the onus has always been on me to prove that I did it right, - haven't lost yet but last 2 times was because the customers got emotional and didn't stick to the issue.
Here are some small claims info:http://personalfinance.costhelper.com/small-claims-court.html
Small Claims Court is intended to resolve simple disputes quickly and relatively inexpensively, in a more informal setting than other types of litigation -- and usually without involving lawyers. Also called County Court or Magistrate's Court, Small Claims Courts only hear complaints up to a maximum value that ranges from $2,500-$15,000, depending on state law.
Typical costs:

• Filing fees average $30-$50, but can run $10-$220 or more depending on location and the amount of money involved in the claim.
• You may also be required to send the person you're suing formal notice by certified mail or by a law enforcement officer or a process server, which could add another $10-$100 or more. However, if you win your case, you can recover all these court costs.
• Some states allow lawyers in Small Claims Court but a few prohibit them. Even if lawyers are allowed, having an attorney represent you at an hourly rate of $100-$300 and up quickly totals more than the maximum amount of money awarded in Small Claims Court. Some people who choose to represent themselves first consult with a lawyer about state laws, strategy, tactics and other issues before filing a Small Claims Court complaint; this consultation can run $100-$500 or more depending on the time involved and the complexity of the case. However, the basic idea of small claims court is to resolve disputes without involving lawyers

apologize for the length - but you have some options rather than walking away and letting some idiot clean your clock
I would not hesitate to go after this guy, Wish you the best.

 

Yes, and if he has ties to the Better Business Bureau or to the Automobile Association of America, you can register complaints with them; if not (and it sounds like perhaps he isn't), then a letter to your state's Attorney General's office. With the owner's general @$$holish attitude, there may be other letters about him on file, and yours could tip the scale to sending the AG's office to action.

 

First of all thanks for your time.Its much appreciated...
So let me get this right..Excuse me if I sound foolish I have no experience with vacuum lines..Thank god I have made it this long without a vacuum issue..LOL.. So the line that's off(Red) should go into the fuel pressure regulator instead of the one that's connected to it already..am I correct.Unless that red line that goes to fuel pressure regulator now is hooked up correctly and i just have to hook the other red line that is disconnected to the other small line behind manifold.If i do this the map sensor is disconnected.Where do i than connect the hose from the map sensor? I followed the hose with the red line as suggested by silvertwinkiehobo and it does not connect to the map sensor.It connects to...I don't know what this sideways round thing is ..will post picture(first).Also Im going to post picture of vacuum diagram on radiator cover and location of red wires currently. If any suggestions after looking at diagram please let me know..