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Discussion in 'General Automotive Tech' started by littlealgie7, Aug 21, 2018.
Oh, I don't know about your choice of words...
I used one of these when I installed a four barrel Holley on my Crown Vic with the AOD transmission.
For the Ford AOD you need a 1:1 ratio of throttle cable to tv cable travel. You can physically connect the tv cable to the bottom hole on the carb linkage and it might seem correct but it isn't. I presume GM OD automatics have the same/similar requirement. On a Ford you can burn up the trans pretty quick if it isn't right.
I found a Distributor at Summit Racing parts. Not sure of fit or compatibility. all parts for under $100. I will take my Wagon to Lay's Transmission here in Toledo. Oh. been going there all my life & the city & county use them too. Lay's rebuilt my SSR transmission a couple years ago. $2500 for all upgrades & rebuilding with guarantee. I get all parts installed. I thank you for your input. To Me? The transmission is shifting better than it did with Quadrajet. At least now first gear seems to wind out a bit from stop. Only problem is rich & knock on acceleration if I have wide open throttle. Have several car shows coming up before snow flies. Maybe get fenders on & engine running acceptably.
You mentioned that the Q-jet is un adjustable. It is, albeit tedious and very finicky.
I'm not surprised by the performance of a reman from AZ.
I haven't pulled my hair out trying to tune one of these for decades but do still have the tools required I could loan. It is only a gauge(someone posted a picture of the same tool I have) and a special "screwdriver" (Snap -On S6136) to adjust the stroke of the metering rods which can be monitored with a simple dwell meter.
seems easier to make the correct stuff work right again than to reinvent the wheel.
Not quite. You adjust the stroke of the mixture control solenoid (which sets the stroke of the primary metering rods) using a special gauge tool while the carb is apart. Once the carb is on the engine, you use a dwell meter on the special test connector or a scan tool to adjust the idle mixture screws while reading the mixture control solenoid dwell time. Unfortunately this is an indirect adjustment, since you are adjusting the amount of fuel flowing through the idle mixture screws, which is read as A/F ratio by the O2 sensor, which then tells the computer to change the dwell time on the primary metering rods to hold the correct A/F ratio. The dwell meter or scan tool tells you the percent of each cycle that the computer is commanding the mixture control solenoid on.
The gauge that sets the MC solenoid stop is the brass tube just to the right of white plastic float gauge. The "J" shaped tool next to that is used to set the bowl vent.
Oooh...I haven't seen that kit in a looooong while!
Thanks for the offer to use your tool Ross. Sunday there was nothing to watch on TV. So off to work on the Buick. I removed anything in the way. Windshield wiper & EGR electrical relays. Problem? Yes I had to break the old one loose. It would not budge. I got wrecking bar wedged under it & wiggled it loose. The distributors looked the same. I installed new one in same position I had marked on firewall. Need small hands to get to 9/16 bolt started. Problem is that the notch for cap alignment is in same place but vacuum diaphragm is against fire wall. No adjustment? I had to move number one spark terminal 2 places counterclockwise. The timing mark on harmonic balancer at 0 TDC & rotor pointed at terminal. The engine started right up after the usual Holley carb. pump accelerator twice. Running nicely & set the timing at 18 degrees as stated on sticker & repair manual. I have not been able to take the Wagon out for a ride yet. Started raining Monday morning & has not quit yet. I may have to do some fine tuning to timing after I see how she runs on acceleration. Still waiting for rain to stop. Problems still having. No A/C, Wiper delay & Dimmer switch all not working. New parts installed & no change in operation. I have no idea why these important accessories are not working as the should. More hacked up wiring? Fuses are good. I also took a look at my 1991 Chrysler Imperial. It stalled No A/C or cruise control on way home from annual MOPAR Car show. I took the plug out of ECM & found corroded terminals. I have a new plug but my mind is willing & body is weak. I cleaned everything up. Reinstalled & everything works. New Message center & parts I got from R&R wrecking here in Ohio. I am getting so tired of working on Electrical in Cars & Trucks today. They get loose corrode & just to delicate for today's highways. Any idea what is going on with electrical on my Buick? I am keeping all the parts I took off Buick in case of? One thing I did find was that when I disconnected vacuum lines to Air Pump. Engine ran smoother.
Do you have a 12 volt test light, and a volt meter? Use the test light to see if you have power on the fuses. A good fuse is fine, but if no power is getting to it, you have to go upstream. The main power delivery to those circuits is, of course, through the ignition electrical switch, mounted on top of the steering column, about halfway down. It's been a while since doing a diagnosis on one, so if I remember, the power inputs into the switch are grey or grey with yellow stripe? I could be wrong on that. But, the upshot is that the output wires to the fuse box will have power with the ignition switch ON, and a few will have power with the key in ACCY position, but you'd need a wiring diagram to see which ones are to be probed. And, when you do probe a wire, the bulb should be nice and bright. If it is dim at all, use the voltmeter to check the actual voltage level, and work your way from there.
Sounds like next fun day laying upside down under dash. I appreciate your input. WHY did GM place the fuse panel in such a in accessible place? Need to have 911 on speed dial. I may get stuck checking the fuse panel. lol
I remember thinking it sounded too simple as I was writing it.
Haven't touched one in a very long time, thank you, and struggled with every one I did. Seems you have a far better grasp of these infernal contraptions.
Having said that they CAN be made to run right and as frustrating as it is still seems simpler than all the machinations involved to delete it.
OP, Sounds like Joe here is your man!
Joe, What's the tool furthest left?
Looks like non-stop Buick, until the Superbowl here
The cylindrical weight and those two brackets with holes are used to hold the float down against the needle and seat to set float height. The brackets hold the float clip in place in the bowl and the weight provides the specified down-force on the needle. Makes setting float height MUCH easier. Not shown in that photo is a special tool that lets you bend the float arms with that weight in place to adjust the float height. I've been buying all these special Kent-Moore tools on ebay. When the GM dealerships all closed during the restructure, many of the K-M tools went up for sale.
I've had four 1980s GMs with the Olds 307 and CCC system (including two currently), so I've gotten pretty good at adjusting it.
good to know about that
Took the Buick to first car show cruise in at Apple butter festival in Grand Rapids Ohio. Saw many nice cars & trucks. The old wagon got plenty of attention. Many remember those days in back of real station wagons on family trips. I took off old bent hood night before & placed the hood I bought from Area 51 in Nevada auto parts that was lost in shipment? My friends Bob & Netta had the King Midgets out along with a Stanley Steamer & many more. Made for a long day to arrive at 7 am to 5 pm. Still having problems with Buick. A/C not working windshield wipers & Dimmer switch not working as they should. Real nice to drive the Wagon now. Cruises like a boat on water. Starts on first try & runs so much better than the Quadrajet junk carb. Had a great day.