Scientific Test Results on Timing

Timing isn't to hard to read. Either it is lighting B.T.D.C. ot A.T.D.C. If you want to find out if it's lighting in the pipes, (retarded), all you have to do is break out the temp. gun. This is a good test tool to have handy. Any increase in pipe temp. may indicate you need more advance. If anyone has ever wondered why their header coating is flaking off, this may be your problem. It's not always a bad coat job that causes this. While the rule of thumb 32 to 36 degrees may get you started, don't always think this is the standard. We had a turbo car that needed 48 degrees in order to keep the exhaust pipes from melting down.
On my street car I do not run an advance. I put my timing in at the balancer, (33 degrees), and the distributor is "locked out". For high compression engines you will need to run a start retard, but my 9.5 compression doesn't need it. The engine almost doesn't turn a full revolution before it starts, hot or cold. I have total timing at all times. It idles smoother, plugs are cleaner, even at low rpm cruising.
Anything you need to know about fine tuning can be found at Patrick James web site. He is the brains behind Pro Systems. While he is more inline with race engines, you can figure out what tips can be applied to your street machine engines.
http://www.prosystemsracing.com/scoop.html

I'm sure it was just a misunderstanding, but yes, these engines in question do not make vacuum reading at WOT. A closed or part closed system can only produce a vacuum reading. This is due to the pistons movement up and down producing a vacuum and the blades being closed gives you the signal reading. When the blades are WOT you loose the ability to make a reading because the system is no longer closed. However, the engine still is pulling a vacuum. This is what makes the boosters in the carb work.