Roller Paint Job Diary

I know what you mean I'll finish my steering wheel tomorrow it's time for a road test.

 

Here's a couple of other bodywork prep pages. This first one even shows making your own long board sanders:

http://www.cadvision.com/blanchas/54pontiac/bodytools.html

The guy has a full, step-by-step, progress page broken down by major restoration tasks - motor, trans, electrics, BODY, etc.

That's section 5:
Very well done, lots of detail, and he's a Software geek, not a car-man.
http://www.cadvision.com/blanchas/54pontiac/progress.html

I'm reviewing it to get my tailgate repaired and maybe repainted today.

If you really get into this resto-cult, you'll want to redo the engine compartment:
http://www.classicalpontiac.com/restoration/10.html

More bodywork stuff:
http://autobody101.com/forums/

http://www.autobody101.com/articles/

Check out the non-welding method linked at the end of the article - same site.
http://www.autobodystore.com/door_rust.shtml

Also check out their Classroom flyout menu for "The Basics"
http://www.autobodystore.com/home.shtml

And then there's always the HR articles.

 

Long sanding board DIY

Check out the available sanding paper stock lengths. There's quite a few for different machines and boards. I used a wall-plastering sanding board and used regular paper (11") cut into 3 strips.

But if you go to the second hand stores and look for a 1/4" cutting board, the white ones are made of a tempered nylon plastic. You can drill and groove it for fasteners and then make a couple of paper hold-down clips to keep the paper in place just like the plaster sanders. Some of those cutting boards are pretty long.

Then take a chunk of dense foam (old mouse pads were made from divers suit foam). maybe 3/16" to 3/8" thick and then follow his instructions on using PVC glue to bind it to the nylon. (40-grit)

Making the handle from plywood with a jig saw or if you've got some one inch oak or ash, you can just drill out the holes for a couple of 1/4" Tee nuts and bolt the nylon/foam plate to the handle base, plug the holes in the bottom and you've got it. A $50 dollar tool for about $4.

I make jigs for my table router and other tools. I even made a jig to use my Makita belt sander into a platform belt sander (upside down), so this long board is straightforward. You could drop a bit of wax or varnish in the handle Tee nuts if you're like me and you want to put some muscle to it. Since the board will flex, they could loosen. The wax or even a dab of loctite would avoid that.

 

Free sources of prime hardwood

My back alley is full of old couches and bedframes every end-of-month. It surprises me, because most of the people here own their homes, and we don't have apartment blocks around.

Well the couches and lazy boys are usually framed with solid Oak, Mahogany, Maple, or Ash. They're usually 1.5" thick X 3" wide, and the full length of the frame (seat and back). That's over $200 of hardwood at today's prices. I use my sawzall to chop off the frames and throw the fabric in the trash bins. It takes an hour or two to take out the staples and pin nails, but it sure beats paying $20 for a 2" X 36" X 3/4" oak/ash or mahogany board for a counter edge or an especially strong jig or long board.

The lazy boys have wider boards in the base and those swivels really come in handy when you need a staining/varnishing stand.

 

Tailgate Saga Improves

I got the structural bends out and the top curved roof edge straight!. Now I'm going to drill out one or two holes for some large screws and pull up or pry up to pull the outside skin up to its original curve.

This first part took about 30 minutes, and the window sits in just nicely.

 

Stormin I wish I had a endless supply of hardwood and the tools to make some long boards if you decide to start making some to sale let me know.

 

We knew you could "get er done". It seems nothing is past your skill level and nothing ventured, nothing gained.

:2_thumbs_up_-_anima

 

If I get done soon enough I'll PM ya! just cost of materials, if I spend anything for them. The postage will cost more, but I'd mail as a gift anyway to eliminate taxes. OK?

 

I drilled out the top face (outside with a 3/16" drill) and screwed in 4 - 1.5" lag screws (coarse sheetmetal thread) and then a claw hammer using another wooden hammer handle resting 90 degrees across the top of the frame and then slooowly pryed up the outer one, then the dimple at the window frame edge, then the next two. I got the durn crease out enough to put a 1/8" or less skin of bondo on.

BUT, my wife is extremely sensitive to lacquer-based chemicals, and the Rustoleum is mineral spirits based. So I can't do a finished job until Spring. I'll fill the holes with body sealer (dries in 40 minutes) and paint that area.

A) You guys prodded me on just enough; and,

B) You saved me at least a couple hundred bucks with your comments; so,

C) THANKS! :2_thumbs_up_-_anima

 

Going to pick up some more Window Adhesive and I'll install it inside the house. The spray-paint rustoleum dries over nite and then I'll install the tailgate tomorrow. She can take the Mineral Spirit stuff, not the lacquer.

I can leave it in the warm part of the attic for tonite.

Amen! Many thanks all!

 

That is great news now where's the pictures?

 

Rebuilding the hinge pins

Regular Door hinge pins are way too big. I went around to various shops and asked but nobody had them. So we went to a Fastener supply shop and the fellow offered screws - Nope. What about 3/16" hardened SS Rod, Yep!

So I'll do that this evening, after dinner. Got a new liftgate piston and some windshield sealant (the only, unplanned and added cost). I figured I could leave the hinges until spring. Well, as Rev would say, I learned something.

The hinge half fastened to the roof is supposed to be fixed - doesn't move. In fact it does move a 16" to either side and up and down. The door half is slotted to move up and down and align with the roof. I was adjusting the wrong ones.

Anyway, I'll cut the old pins off, saw off 2 3" lengths from this new rod about 1/8" longer. drill into the ends about 1/16" for rivetting them into place, after I clean up the old hinge holes to 3/16" from an oval, worn out 1/8" wobbly mess.

Slide the two halves together, slip in the new pins and knurl them into place so they don't move. Drill presses are great! I bought a small anvil 6 months ago to bend and shape hardware, so this burring/knurling job will go great. Good solid mass under and a good ball-pean whack or three and we're done.

 

Sheesh! I just cleaned off the old windshield stuff and tapped it a bit straighter. The body sealer isn't dry yet, so I can't smooth it down and paint. It looks like painting in the AM tomorrow and install later in the PM (3:00, here, 5:00 for you).

Pictures over the weekend, I hope.

 

Can't wait!!!! My drool factor has gone up by a 100% looking and reading.
By next summer my car will be painted but I won't to tear it apart yet.