Rear disk Brakes on a 94 Roadmaster estate?

I remember seeing the auction. I'm in Alabama so there is no smog police. I had the engine out because of a broke bolt in the head. I looked at the bearing and decided to do nothing but seal it up good and new opti park, MSD 8.5 wires and a new water pump. Purchased a set of hooker super comp headers had them coated and in the car. Ended up removing them. Driver side tube to close to the brake booster hose. I lucked out and had a set of new LT1 manifolds that hat been extruded honed. alter winning the auction on ebay I remembered thinking am I the only one the know what extrude honing is. Got those manifolds for 167.00. Extrude Hone say it adds 15HP. I also cut the cat off my car and sold them at a muffler shop for $200.00. I also added ram Air to my car. the air intake is in the air Dam. with a huge K&N filter behind the fans. Your car has the toe package and has a clutch fan not sure if my setup will work for you but it would not be hard to find out. My car hit 211,000 miles today and is very strong. Since the cats are not there I will delete the oil cooler if there is room for the GM 932 truck filter. The lines are leaking again. I don't like leaks. On Chevy's that I drive and service I usually put a pipe plug in the bypass hole so there is 100% oil filtration all the time. and the big filter is a 2 qt filter. My SS started as a 94 roadmaster so it has leather interior. The plush interior will shock you each time you get out of the car in the winter if you don't ground yourself first. I figure I have another 150,000 to 180,000 miles before doing any major engine work. I think the LT-1 will run that long. The intake manifold is leak prone at the rear. Mine had been fixed twice. I had a custom computer done with no speed limit and for a 52MM Throttle body. It ran great but when you are running above 120MPH you can almost see the gas hand dropping. I put it all back stock. Some one tell me how to post pictures and I will take some next week. Do tell me about the gas mileage with the 2.93 gear. The would be a good step from the 2.56 I think. I can't seem to drive slow enough to get 27 MPG. Tried today and before I knew it I'm cruising at 95.
Greg

 

Hey, Greg....the guys at LStech just wrap those lines after header installation. What brand headers did you get? Some of them have gone to those ebay SS cheapies....like them SO far. Maybe I'll buy yours if you don't want them. I hardly EVER check gas mileage. Can't be TOO different from the 2.56's I wouldn't think. TBirdsps just helped ME with pix posting. See my post ..."Pix. HELP!" at the bottom thread that is for puter problems and forum problems and learning.

 

Thanks Handy Andy,

The read drum on the wagon are huge and you may be right. There is nothing wrong withe the braking, 4 wheel disk on a big GM wagon is not seen often. In face I have never seen it. Greg

 

I purchase Hooker super Comp from Summit and I sold them on ebay about 18 months ago. I thought of rapping the brake line but a buddy pointed it out to me that the way I drive my car Cast iron manifolds are hard to beat.

 

OK....I don't understand the cast iron comment.....?

 

Cast Iron exaust Manifolds don't work loose from heating cycles like steel headers do. I think I re torqued the cast Iron manifold on my car a week after reinstalling the engine and have not thought of it since. With headers I usually retorque them weakly for the first month then whenever I think about it. I have on blown one header gasket in 30 years and that was from loose header bolts. Have not tried the Copper or aluminum gaskets yet. My 94 SS wagon is a daily driver and I don't have the time to work on it all the time. I have some other toys that need attention including a 1968 Impala SS Rag top, 66 Impala, a 55 Chevy Del Ray, The 86 Iroc was for my son but he has a new ricer and daddy planning a strong 415 Small Block to handle most any new hot rod. As soon as I can get them money for a crank this party is on. Greg

 

Well....you stumped me on the "extruded honed" exhaust manifolds. Never hear of them and it sounds strange. Are they after market??

 

disk brakes

I'm very good with a die grinder. Extrude honing is a porting process that uses a clay like material that is pushed through under extreme pressure. it reaches area that I can't reach and leave a polished finish. its expensive. Try around $800.00 for 2 cast iron manifolds. My manifolds are GM LT-1. Let me know If you need more info on them & I will find their number. Greg

another company process that will make an engine last much longer an make more power is 300 below. Planning to have a 400 Chevy done.

 

Thanks for the info, Greg....nah....I don't see any advantage for the price over headers. I like the concept but who really knows what the actual power numbers are after spending the money? Have to dyno the car to find out for sure.

 

disk brakes

I usually like headers over cast Iron manifolds This process is expensive but I did not pay the full price for new Cast iron manifolds that were extrude honed. I could feel the difference just like headers. I have a TPI manifold that has also been extruded honed. I can't afford their prices. If you build a engine take a serious look at 300 below. I had 4 gun barrels done and the one that but back together and tested was already grouping 1/4. no changes in the bedding or trigger, I have a target that grouped .11 on ten shots. it looks like one hole and that is smaller than the bullet that I was shooting. I understand the process and can not wait to try it on engine. i don't like working on car but do because I can't afford to have work done to a high standard. My friend all tease me about measuring everything on a engine that I build for my self.
Greg