That's right, it's permeation, which is the downside of a 12-to-134a conversion. Nothing is simple or cheap. And it brings the question: how many summers have you gone through this? If the answer is several, it's possible the hose replacement would've already been paid off by now. Oh, well. And as a general note, it seems everyone who had a 'license' for R12 handling (including myself) let them lapse as less and less cars got R12. Last price per pound I knew (and this was twelve years ago) was $200/lb. R134a three summers ago was either $23 or $28/lb., depending on if you got the dye-infused type or not.
I kept my license. It's MUCH cheaper now, it seems that most people aren't restoring R12 anymore so the price has tanked over the last 5-7 years. I paid $50 for a 30lb tank with 17lbs still in it and $40 for 4 cans of R12. My total stash is up to almost 25lbs, enough to keep a few cars in service. I won't put it in any car that doesn't have new o-rings, hoses, and a compressor though ;-)
I didn't know that. Since my last shop didn't service R12 (even though we had an Atlas machine from the Chevron station), I never kept up with it. Plus, the last class I took (2000?) the instructor said there was still 1.5 million pounds worldwide at that time. I wonder how much there is now?
I recently went through this with my Isuzu Trooper. The system was disconnected when I got it. I tried R12a but it didn't cool that well and then they a/c clutch went out. I decided to try R152a aka computer duster. My temps are 40-44 out of the vent where it was 50+ with the R12a or R134. You will have to service your system yourself, though since no one will touch it with anything other than R12 or R134a.
On a system, the spec for cooling is not getting down to a specific temp; rather, you look to verify the system makes a 40-45* drop from ambient. The thermometer needs to be in the center registers, all doors open all the way and fan on HI for this temperature drop.
And if you want max cooling, the windows need to be closed and the air door set to RECIRC, so that you are not pulling any ambient air in from the outside. The system will then be able to move heat out from the cabin, so if it is too cold, add some heat from the temp control and it'll warm up, then the system will remove that heat, as well as the heat generated by the vehicle's glass.
I just happen to have a container of R12 with about 6 lbs. in it?! Anybody interested?? 541-992-4787 or send me a PM. The Roach