Because we're not sure the master is bad. Diagnosis is necessary, otherwise you're just throwing parts at it.
Thanks for all the input, next week it's off to the mechanic. Remember everyone I know where the motor is, and that's about it, and I have ABSOLUTLY no desire to learn!
that's why I told him how to check for it, or weren't you paying attention. It's a moot point though cause he don't know anything about cars anyhow and don't want to learn, so why give him advice. As for recycling the old brake fluid, just put it in a jug for later. It's an excellent paint remover.....a lesson one only has to learn once.
Let's hope that militant car clubs terrorizing littlealgie7 don't pick up on your secret: http://www.stationwagonforums.com/forums/threads/fyi.48515/
Mak, the selector is an easy fix. I did it on my cp. alls you gotta do is remove the casing around the column. There is a white plastic collar with a cable similar to the pic posted earlier. (Think Kev. Posted) the cable is attached to that by a simple clip which can be moved side to side and takes the slack out of tHe cable. The collar on mine was cracked and did not give enough tension on that tiny little cable. All I did was wrap a zip tie (or two) around the collar and all’s well again. The only reason I’m telling you this is because your mechanic might tell you the parts are unavailable and won’t wanna fool with rigging it. It might sound confusing because my description is murky but if you take the casing off and move the shifter up and down you’ll can see all that these working parts. I know you said your not interested in learning or fixing but I’ll tell you what I used to say to all my girl friends. “Just trrrry it! It might be fun!”
Finally got the car to the mechanic to check out issue 1 ; has only taken me 134 days 1> Parking brake is on, move the shift level down to disengage. Brake pedal pops up, can hear it disengage but park brake light stays on. What's wrong? Here's what's wrong Brake lines leaking, split - need to replace all with new Master Cylinder valves shot; original to the car - replacing with new. then bleed system total cost $439. Know could probably do this myself - but savings wouldn't = my time and aggravation
Don't you now have time, after having gotten rid of the stores? One would think that having the income embelical cord cut, through department store riddance, that money would now be the issue
actually the money is the other way around, last year had to put $86,000 and this year another $60,000 just to be able to close them by July, so yeah have the time to do it and the $ - but my patience is shot all to hell - perhaps I can get that back but not by next week!
That’s not a bad price for replacing all the lines and a new master. I pulled my cp out of the basement and gave everything a quick once over. I have a cracked vacuum hose and the master cyl is leaking all over the booster. So I’ll be spending close to $300 just for parts I’m guessing. Then I HAVE to do the work. I’m not looking forward to bending over backwards and under the steering wheel
At least, when you do it yourself, you'll know that it's done right. Taking it to the wrong place means bending over forwards. You two can save money, through disassembling the master cylinders and see if the wear isn't beyond honing and subsequent new seal installation
really Ivy how much can we save? I get the fact that some people like doing this type of work, I am not 1 of them even if I had the patience. saving a $100.00 is not going to change my lifestyle 1 bit - crawling around & under a car all day in the heat would piss me off for days - even if I did right and only did it once. Would rather have ELECTIVE tooth drilling
I think a master cylinder costs like $30. The booster will be the big ticket item. I’m with mak on the crawling around on the ground. I ain’t the one! Even though I do it for oil changes. The wagon leaks oil and my Tahoe leaks like crazy. The truck is due for some routine maintenance. All of which can wait till I get a proper work space. It’s coming along. Waiting for an electrician and a lift. I also gotta put epoxy? On the concrete floor to make it shiny!
Epoxy paint. It seals the concrete, otherwise ya gotta break out the muriatic acid or the Amway powder cleaner (which does work quite well...even the 20-odd-year-old box I got from Mom and Dad) to clean up spills of anything automotive, not just oil. As for DIY, if someone decides they want a 'pro' to do their work, that's their right, it's their car. As one of those 'pros,' though, I would say do your homework, find a trustworthy shop, because I won't work where I have no trust, so neither should you give an un trustworthy shop your hard-earned money.
Oh, no! Better to go with the epoxy, than to have those Amway people at your door. They're almost as stressy as encyclopedia salespeople were Is the electrician only hooking up the lift or is he doing the new addition? My sister was telling me that it's difficult getting skilled tradesmen to come over, because they're taking larger more lucrative contracts first