If we look through all the project threads, everyone offers some kind of method or tip to simplify or improve a common issue. I figured I'd start with one of my own. I rewired my 1979 Fairmont Squire for a few 'upgrades' when I finished the resto (visor makeup lamps, heated rear glass, cruise control, and DSII Electronic Ignition) and again, when I changed the stock dash (with idiot lights) to a 1984 Mustang dash (with gauges). Since I finished the resto, the car has had 3 solenoids and two voltage regulators, and would only start a few (up to 8) times, without recharging. I know there's a gremlin electrical problem in the dome lights, but that's not an issue because there are no bulbs installed. I was mentioning this (won't keep a charge) problem to a buddy two days ago, who owns a small moving company and collects cars and trucks, and he said the EASIEST test is to: A) Start the car, B) Pull off one of the battery cables. I forgot whether he said the Regulator was NFG or the Alternator. Stay with me, here. So HandyAndy and I go and pull off a few parts off of the only Fairmont Wagon we know, load them up, and I mention this trick outside the JY gate. The car stops dead. Is it the Regulator or the Alternator? I can't recall what my moving buddy said... Let me ask the guys in the JY. So in I go to the office, the owner and his sidekick, and I ask them: "If I pull the battery cable and the car dies, which is it?" The LMAO answer was, "Your Alternator is f$cked!" Both of them together, laughing my hard-earned money away. Andy bought a replacement Diode kit for his a couple years ago, and saved himself a C-note or more. With what I bought yesterday, they gave me another one for $25. It's going in today. If all else fails, ask the Junkyard dogs, Dawg!
Well, they were right! All my electric gremlins are gone! It's a smaller alternator at 65 or 70 amp output, but at idle, the voltage meter now reads 14.5 with nothing on, and 13.5 with everything on (Halogen headlights, AC blower, hazard lights, radio. I'll get the kit Andy used and rebuild mine. It was rebuilt 2 years before I got the donor car, but its a 110 Amp alternator. Bearings are all good, etc.
I heard not to try that battery cable trick on the newer cars. Something about voltage spikes and possible damage to one of the many onboard computers.
Probably true, since they added voltage 'amplifiers' - a new version of the old capacitor discharge components. I wouldn't do it to anything with an OBD or computer.
Hey, I had an electrical gremlin recently as the battery would be fully charged but a day later totally dead. I traced the general area of the open circuit by systematically removing a fuse and letting the car sit overnight after charging the battery. If the battery still had power the next morning, I knew the circuit that used that fuse was OK. I repeated until each fuse was tested. I ended up tracing the drain to the interior lights.
