My New-to-me 1987 CE Wagon

Discussion in 'General Automotive Tech' started by Glide-Aways, Feb 7, 2016.

  1. Glide-Aways

    Glide-Aways Well-Known Member

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    So it all started just a few weeks ago here:
    http://www.stationwagonforums.com/forums/threads/1987-chevrolet-caprice-estate.40778/

    and then somehow jumped over here:
    http://www.stationwagonforums.com/f...-and-sedans-for-sale.40839/page-2#post-369591

    and so I'm trying to relocate the thread here where it seems more fitting, for those of you still interested. :)

    He was runs beautifully upon arriving from TX, but I decided to do an oil change and coolant system flush anyway. New belts too. Rotated the tires and the brake inspection revealed the fronts are fine, rears will need attention soon as will the brake fluid. The focal point though has been trying to get it to pass CA smog. Testing for that revealed the O2 sensor was failing (now replaced) as is the air pump diverter valve (which is proving to be elusive and expense). A cleaning additive was added to both the new oil and the fuel tank (which was a mixture of 10 gallons of 89 octane I put in and the rest being fuel already in the tank when the car arrived (how old?)). Also found the carburetor needed a slight adjustment. So after all that, I brought the wagon home yesterday while we search/wait for the valve.

    This morning I took it up on the freeway and drove continuously for 150+ highway miles. Burned through the new/old and treated gas, filled it up with 91 octane and came home. He's still running beautifully. With this new tank of fuel, I think I might try that seafoam product that was suggested here and drive that tank-full before going back for a retest.

    Other than this challenge of passing smog, this wagon is a true pleasure. EVERYTHING works except the temperature gauge and a couple of window switches. On this morning's drive I discovered the cruise control works as well. Even after today's drive he's still under 25k miles. :)
     
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  2. Silvertwinkiehobo

    Silvertwinkiehobo "Everything that breaks starts with 'F.'"

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    Wow. That's getting rare, finding a low-mileage carbureted vehicle. If you have a trusted shop you use, you should at least pay them to hook up a scantool and go over the sensor data. Make sure the mixture control solenoid dwell is 30%. Is it a Dualjet or a Quadrajet carb?
     
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  3. cammerjeff

    cammerjeff Longroofs Rule!

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    Rock Auto Lists the Valve for $322.89 but it is not AC Delco its Made by Standard Motor Products.

    http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1002424&cc=1036954&jsn=505

    I am assuming you have an Olds 307 4bbl though.

    And on Ebay for $120.95

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/Diverter-Valve-DV122-CAPRICE-CLASSIC-87-88-17075080-214-61-/360241530767

    And Here you go a NOS AC Delco on Ebay for all of $19.99 & $10.25 shipping I think I would grab it if I were you, even if you can't return the one on the way, you may need it in the future

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-Delco-1...ash=item56809f2ee9:g:PQYAAOSwZG9WjATn&vxp=mtr
     
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  4. joe_padavano

    joe_padavano Well-Known Member

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    I assume this car has the Olds 307 motor with the computer controlled Qjet. I had that drivetrain in a 1986 Caprice wagon. The 307 was pretty much the only motor used in the B-body wagons in the late 1980s.

    First, you must check and double check all the miles of vacuum hoses. A misconnection or small crack in any one of them will screw the system up.

    Second, you need to verify the proper functioning of systems like the A.I.R. system. I too had a diverter valve problem, which ultimately was caused by a bad check valve in the A.I.R. manifold on one side. This allowed exhaust gas to reach the diverter, which burned it out. Simply replacing the diverter without fixing the root cause of the failure will lead to the same failure of the new part in short order. The OBD I system has very limited capability and there are many, many failure modes that will not set a code. You must understand the theory behind each system on the car and follow the appropriate diagnosis procedure.

    Third, you MUST follow the carb adjustment process EXACTLY as detailed in the chassis service manual. Once you do, it will run very well, but if you try to cut corners you will never get it right. Purchase an original service manual immediately if you haven't already gotten one. Do not waste your money on aftermarket manuals like Chiltons, only get a factory GM manual.

    Finally, if you are not doing this work yourself, there are precious few mechanics left with the skills or patience to properly work on the CCC system. Most "mechanics" today are simply parts-changers. All they do is read the codes on the screen and replace the parts that it says to replace. This will NOT work on a CCC system. Good luck.
     
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  5. Silvertwinkiehobo

    Silvertwinkiehobo "Everything that breaks starts with 'F.'"

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    My former boss has a complete set of CCC carb tools, but he had a tech that did all that work, so when the guy moved on, he couldn't find another. It's the reason I really wish my boss previous to him had taught me how to do the adjustments. I suppose, if I did have the factory shop manual, that I likely could be a little closer than 'ballpark,' as I did watch him do some adjustments on a few.
     
  6. ModelT1

    ModelT1 Still Lost in the 50's

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    I remember the good old days when you adjusted the idle speed and air and drove the heck out of the car.
     
  7. Glide-Aways

    Glide-Aways Well-Known Member

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    Thank you, all of you, for the tips and advice! Checking the vacuum lines had not occurred to me!

    Yes, my wagon has the Olds 307 Qjet. STILL not passing smog, but we've made a lot of progress (scores are much better than the first test). It's been getting it to pass smog that's been the sole frustration; which I knew I was risking by buying this car, but I did not anticipate it taking this long. The wagon was running beautifully when it first arrived. There were no symptoms of anything being wrong, but the smog diagnostics revealed a faulty O2 sensor, diverter valve and a bad EGR valve. I kinda feel like I'm chasing a moving target. :-/
     
  8. joe_padavano

    joe_padavano Well-Known Member

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    Go back and read post #4. If you do not have a CSM and are not following the procedure EXACTLY, you will waste a lot of time and money and never get there. I've had three of these cars. The system works great IF you follow the instructions.
     
  9. Glide-Aways

    Glide-Aways Well-Known Member

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    Thanks Joe, your post definitely required a re-read. No, I am not doing this smog-related work myself. I was lucky enough to find a mechanic old enough to have years of experience working on '80's GM V8's. He almost appeared excited when I first brought the wagon in and he's the only one in the shop they assigned my car to. I'll speak with him tomorrow specifically about your suggestions. Thanks again Joe!
     
  10. Glide-Aways

    Glide-Aways Well-Known Member

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    IT PASSED!

    Next stop is the DMV to hopefully get my plates (later this week).
     
  11. Glide-Aways

    Glide-Aways Well-Known Member

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    I'm legal! Time to plan a road trip. :)
     
  12. Silvertwinkiehobo

    Silvertwinkiehobo "Everything that breaks starts with 'F.'"

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    Pics or it didn't happen!
     
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  13. Glide-Aways

    Glide-Aways Well-Known Member

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    87 Caprice at Work.JPG
    Haha, fair enough. I had to go to work straight from my DMV appointment and took this photo after I arrived; plates are still in the glove box.
     
  14. Silvertwinkiehobo

    Silvertwinkiehobo "Everything that breaks starts with 'F.'"

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    Wow. What a looker. Was she always garaged, or just that well-taken care of?
     
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  15. Glide-Aways

    Glide-Aways Well-Known Member

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    Thanks. Mostly garaged. It came with just under 25K original miles on it.
     
  16. 1tireman

    1tireman Well-Known Member

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    Congrats! Very nice wagon!
     
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