Manual transmission Column Shifter

Discussion in 'General Automotive Tech' started by 13ozMouseBoner, May 12, 2019.

  1. KevinVarnes

    KevinVarnes Well-Known Member

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    Yes, but good luck finding a 94/95 SC trans with the taller first gear. I run the shorter first gear (3.75) trans in my XR-7 with 3.27 gears and 225/60R16 tires and it doesn't bother me at all. It had 2.73 rear gears stock.
     
  2. joe_padavano

    joe_padavano Well-Known Member

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    Of course, but you can't just change one gear. It's the complete gear set. I have no idea of availability or cost. On GM transmissions, it would be cheaper to buy another trans.
     
  3. 13ozMouseBoner

    13ozMouseBoner New Member

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    Yeesh
    Why does it have to be the entire set
     
  4. joe_padavano

    joe_padavano Well-Known Member

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    Because to change first gear ratio you need to change the cluster shaft (item 32 in the drawing). Actually, it looks like the gears for these transmissions aren't that expensive. I'm too used to buying overpriced Muncie parts.

    [​IMG]
     
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  5. 13ozMouseBoner

    13ozMouseBoner New Member

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    That makes sense, thanks for the explanation.

    This is off topic, but im in a pinch.
    My truck (88 f150 5.0 5 speed) is having issues, I recently replaced the intake manifold and its not starting what so ever. I have the distributor set right, the fuel rail has pressure, but no fuel is going into the chambers. I found this out by pulling one of the plugs to test the spark and smelled no fuel on the plug. It had combustion earlier when i was timing the rotor, but thats gone. Could it be that the injectors shit the bed, or possibly a clogged filter?
     
  6. KevinVarnes

    KevinVarnes Well-Known Member

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    Rent a set of noid lights or check for a 12V pulse on one of the injectors while cranking. My guess is your injectors are not being commanded on. Could be the PIP in the distributor or the TFI module.
     
  7. Silvertwinkiehobo

    Silvertwinkiehobo "Nothing is foolproof as fools are ingenious."

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    Yes. If you have a 12 volt test light, turn the ignition on, probe the red wire on injector #5 (easiest to reach). If there's power, move the probe tip to the other wire and connect the light's cable to power. Crank the engine. If the light doesn't flash, the computer is not controlling the injectors, and that's usually the TFI module. If there's no power, then look at the PCM power relay, as it powers the PCM, fuel pump and injectors.
     
  8. 13ozMouseBoner

    13ozMouseBoner New Member

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    Ill pick one up in a week, cant really afforx to rent one right now. I did however take the distributor from rhe wagon and plopped it on the engine, still nothing. I know for a fact that one is functional and once i test everything out with the noid itll narrow everything down to either loose/bad wires, the relay, or the pcm. Thanks for the advice everyone, ill post with an update sometime next week.
     
  9. KevinVarnes

    KevinVarnes Well-Known Member

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  10. Silvertwinkiehobo

    Silvertwinkiehobo "Nothing is foolproof as fools are ingenious."

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    AutoZone should also have loaner tools. But a cheapie test light from HF shouldn't be more than $8-10.
     
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  11. KevinVarnes

    KevinVarnes Well-Known Member

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  12. Silvertwinkiehobo

    Silvertwinkiehobo "Nothing is foolproof as fools are ingenious."

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  13. 13ozMouseBoner

    13ozMouseBoner New Member

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  14. Silvertwinkiehobo

    Silvertwinkiehobo "Nothing is foolproof as fools are ingenious."

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    My friend Steven and I call it the "Chinesium Museum."
     

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