lowering springs for 1996 roadmonster wagon

Discussion in 'General Automotive Tech' started by jerrysoldtrucks, Feb 15, 2017.

  1. jerrysoldtrucks

    jerrysoldtrucks Member

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    want to lower rear only of my 1996 roadmaster wagon. what moog springs will bring it down about 2 inches? thanks. jerry MGySgt USMC ret.
     
  2. Silvertwinkiehobo

    Silvertwinkiehobo "Everything that breaks starts with 'F.'"

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    Long Beach Lowering Kit (Acetylene torch, for the uninitiated....)?
     
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  3. Grizz

    Grizz Are we there yet???

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    Yeah what he said. No spindles or springs needed unless you just wanna spend $ like my brother!!!Or a saw z all could work if your outta gas. Buy extra blades! And maybe a visit to your favorite alignment shop when all said and done?
     
  4. Fred Kiehl

    Fred Kiehl Well-Known Member

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    You can not cut the rear springs because of the pigtails. I would not torch the springs on someone else's car let alone my own. Your best bet is to get a set of Impala rear springs, and you will not have any issues with them falling out. If you go aftermarket, you need to weld a couple of pieces of exhaust pipe to the upper spring perches to keep them from falling out when you jack the car to change the tires. They should also be tied to the axle with tiewraps to keep them in place. If you are only lowering the rear, your alignment should be fine without any changes. You will get a little more caster, but that does not hurt the car at all.
     
  5. Silvertwinkiehobo

    Silvertwinkiehobo "Everything that breaks starts with 'F.'"

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    My suggestion was simply a joke, as the name in and of itself is laughable. I would never suggest that using an acetylene torch is a good thing to do.
     
  6. Grizz

    Grizz Are we there yet???

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    Haha. Talk about mis information! I know I've seen it done before. But that's Don't make it right. Please excuse my ignorance. Somebody learn me something here. What would be the difference between a shorter spring, and a "shortened" spring?
     
  7. Fred Kiehl

    Fred Kiehl Well-Known Member

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    A spring that is shorter may be made with thicker wire, and have a higher spring rate, where the shortened spring is made of the same wire, and will have about the same spring rate. Depending on whether the spring was cut or heated, a shortened spring can be safe or dangerous. A heated spring may crack and fail. Either a shorter or shortened spring can cause/allow the spring to fall off of the seat, depending on the amount that the suspension moves when the car is jacked for tire changing.
     
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  8. Grizz

    Grizz Are we there yet???

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    The fog of ingnorance has lifted. (Just a little) if you were to do this, which I understand you wouldn't, ever, but if you were going to pick the lesser of two evils, would you say it's better to cut or torch?
     
  9. Fred Kiehl

    Fred Kiehl Well-Known Member

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    You never ever torch springs, and in this case, you can not cut the rear springs. Your options are shorter springs for the rear, and front, or shorter springs for the rear, and cut the front (you will have to experiment on the fronts).

    I believe the fronts will give you approximately an inch of drop for every half coil you cut off. It is easier to get a set of drop springs and install them. For every 1/2 inch of measured drop for a RM front spring, you must remove .030 inches of shims from each shim stack to correct for negative camber. (One inch drop .060 from the front and rear) If you want more caster, you could remove half of the total from the front, and remove that much more from the rear. (One inch drop .030 from the front, and .090 from the rear) Measure from the top of the wheel opening to the top of the rim before the drop, and measure again after, subtract the second from the first for the amount of drop.
     

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