Yeah, the downside of the Ford EFI rail...no clips to hold the injectors in the rail, so it has to be bolted to keep them from popping off. And they'll pop off harder if you hit them with deadhead pressure. Is there any shop near you that services injectors?
I don’t think so. Don’t even have a trans ship that’ll stand behind a rebuild. It’s all just swap em. As far as the rail, number 3 and 4 I cannot see even with the inspection mirror just to see if their leaking from the top
You don't need to do that. Remove the upper plenum. Then pull the fuel pump relay connector and jumper it just for a second or two.
Well to see the top of them, yes. But didn’t think all the way through on the injectors flying off…….lol. Without looking online, I suppose there isn’t a test an average home mechanic can do to see if there’s one leaking by tho? Shove a twisted paper towel in each spark plug hole?
Actually, you're on the right track. Restore the return line to the tank. Use a jumper to energize the pump at the relay connector, let it run for oh, say, ten minutes. Then pull the jumper, and crank the engine at the starter solenoid. Any fuel in the cylinders will blow out the spark plug holes; you look for the hole with liquid gas on it/them (you can have more than one bad injector).
Oh wow! Did not think of that!!!!! Very very VERY clever!!! Naturally, unplug the dizzy?! Lol. Saw one place online say if one injector is bad, replace all. Part of me agrees, and other doesn’t. Ain’t broke don’t fix it. Eh?!
You don't crank the engine with the ignition on. You only crank the engine itself. That way, you don't have to disable the ignition or fuel. And you crank it by energizing the starter solenoid 'S' terminal.
Absolutely nothing! Purchased an endoscope camera. Nothing. Checked ever joint with camera. I’ve had the pump running for prob 40 mins total with no evidence on any connection. Looking in the tank with pump running, there’s no leaks on the discharge hose. I’m gonna replace the FPR to the other one and see if it makes a difference. But it maybe something I just gotta live with……unless there’s another thought…..?
Nothing I can think of, you sound like you were pretty thorough. So, suggestion: cycle the key twice--two seconds on, three off, two on, then crank. It'll help build more volume and pressure before cranking the engine.
Well the original FPR I had on it prior to all this, failed. So I put the other back on. I can def see what the damper does! The gauge it jumping around a bit with engine running. But I did find the hoses from the vent to canister were rotten. Beyond that, gotta adjust the TV cable as it didn’t like being disconnected. But who knows, perhaps all the messing around fixed it…….I’ll do the one cycle tomorrow, and if there’s an issue come Thursday I’ll try two and see what happens. But it’s running fine tho. Still stumbled on initial crank, with pressure on the rail……it’s got me thinking in a different direction. But I’ll wait a couple days to see
Yeah, *do not* ever drive an AOD with the TV cable undone. It'll wipe out one or more gears, usually Third and OD. Ask me how I know....
And, I also have to replace my canister lines, it's split along the side, and every time I trim it and put the new end on the steel line, it just splits again....
I know all too well the tv cable. My other squire burned up due to that. Well it’s adjusted, running good. Did a single cycle today, misfire through intake. Last time that happened was when I was dealing with the MAF. I’ve moved it a bit, did make a difference. But shall see how it does tomorrow