Sorry to read your plans did'nt work out. And what SS asked, why could'nt/can't you buid up your inline in Cal?
None of the parts (crossflow heads, headers, etc) are California Air Resouces Board approved. Nor is any EFI stuff. Not to be undone I'll go forward with the cosmetic restoration, semi-custom, and keep my eyes open to a 5.0 Mustang and 5 speed, 8.8 rear end 1982-1992 for the future. I want the EFI so a later model is what I'll keep in mind. All bolt in without any modification. I think I'd rather have a 5.0 anyway. I was being CHEAP going with the V6.
The 1984 Mustang that I scooped the dash from is a 2.3L engine/C3 trans, but it's got the 8.8 with Disc brakes, floor shifter and E-brake. Nice red buckets too (full reclining, fabric, no tears, with headrests). Andy and I are good customers and we could ask him to hold.
302 is probably the cheapest way to go. You can still use the original crossmember if you want. I think you need to use Ranger motor mounts. Stymee is the man for that. Here's his new site: http://sites.google.com/site/351wfutura/
I doubt it Norm. Unless someone swapped the rear in, and if there's an 8.8 rear out there with disc brakes that fits a mustang that is what we need to go get.
Glad you chimed in on this! There's a Fox baby lincoln out there at Midnite also. I meant to mention it before. Somebody did try to make that Mustang from a Pig's ear to a Silk Purse. The trunk is loaded with disc brake parts, etc. Worth another go. Too cold today. Wet and soggy and hard to light. Like an old ciggy butt.
TBird, you might find this handy: http://www.rolledon.com/index.htm http://rollyourcar.com/default.aspx and this link that came from theRev: http://www.dashtop.com/ If you're going for Concours, this is good too: http://www.justdashes.com/ And you'll LUV this. Hotrod mag did a series on the whole body repair thing: http://www.stationwagonforums.com/forums/showthread.php?p=13260&highlight=Roller+Painting#post13260 BTW, is Starboard on the RH or LH side? OR, since we live in the Northern Hemisphere is it North or South? I was watching a Sinbad movie and made a mental note to ask you.
I am a member of rolledon.com and I saved the other sight for reference. Since I'll be rolling in 100*+ heat can I assume the 50/50 mix will be better for me? I've been delaying because we've been very windy for the last month or so. Too much dust in the air. I'm getting excited about it. I can take my time and do a three color job.:banana:
You'll be doing it in the garage? Sun doesn't bother the Rustoleum, except that the sun will cook out the normal drying agents. Your first coats will look like crap (bubbles and some sanding dust from prep work), but you'll soon see if the 50/50 mix is ok. If the bubbles don't lay flat within a few minutes, it's too 'dry' - add more mineral spirits. If they lay flat too fast, less mineral spirits. I painted mine outside in 85F to 90F degree with 50/50. If I started earlier (humidity is higher in the AM and late Afternoon, running at 70 to 90% here.), then I mixed 60 thinners/40 paint. You're going to wetsand anyway, and that will take the dust off. In a perfect world, you'd blow off the dust in the cracks and nooks, somehow the first couple of coats just seem to pick it all up. Try to paint starting at 8 or 9 AM. It's a one hour job for the whole car in one color. Its about 2.5 hours for each wetsanding session on the first 2 coats (evening job, 10 to 12 hours after painting). Then its about 2 hours each for wetsanding the next X coats. I went 8 coats, lots have done them with 6 coats, but the best is 7 or 8 coats. I bought 4 quarts, but only used 2.5 quarts. Wash each coat down with water and then mineral spirits and then a wipedown with a tackcloth before the next one. If you've got a good old vacuum cleaner or shopvac, use it too, before the tackcloth.
Are you pretty tall? I'm 5'8". I needed a 6" boardwalk to put enough pressure on the wetsanding tasks. When you're rolling the paint on, you want to watch it roll and how the bubbles lay down, so you're at eye-level, by nature of the task. A mechanic's dolly isn't stable enough. If you can borrow some old 6" posts and lay them on both sides and at the rear, you'll be OK. Secondhand lumber salvage yard or a friend at the railway yard with a couple old railway ties would work too. You only need them long enough for the roof and to reach over the front, above the windshield. Moving them around is a PITA. Also, you may want to take that nice tailgate off, because the runs do go in there like a magnet. And there's no room to clean them up otherwise. You could mask that whole area off too, after you clean it and spraycan it, including the underside of the tailgate frame. If you're gonna do that, apply about 4 to 5 coats - still 10 to 12 hours to dry, then mask it off. You won't be touching that again until you're doing the final buffing. You should use the 3M green or blue masking tape - easiest to remove after you're done and thinner than the white one.
I'm 6' but I could also let the air out of the tires. Since I'm doing three colors I'm starting at the top and then do the hood and A pillars then the sides and lower back. I figure all summer. Some of us have to work after all.