Yes, I had a new booster installed as well as new wheel cylinders. That took care of the problem. I still have a stalling issue. I can't find the source of the problem. It's intermittent and it mostly happens after the car reaches running temperature. It will hesitate on accelleration from a dead stop. To avoid stalling it, I have to ease into accellerating. I've checked the vacuum and it's fine (18 or above is recommended and I'm at 19). I've replaced the fuel filter and checked that the carbs jets are working properly. I replaced all the plugs and though the ones that were there were old, none of them were fouled. I recently replaced the rotor and distributor cap. The rotor had some corrosion and a build up of something on the contact. The contacts on the cap were all pretty well burnt. The car is running better with the new cap and rotor but the stalling issue remains. I'm wondering it it's my fuel pump? I hate this method of tracking something down-by replacing everything, but I've checked everything everyone's told me to check.
I am not convinced that you have. You do not mention the crimped vacuum hose or whether you ever hooked it up properly. Go find that other thread where I told you about that...
all that work without reco/new parts ? how do you know you wont suffer the same problem . booster i can understand but not cylinders /master these new parts are as cheap as chips (frys in your terms ) in US go new and save all the time it takes to bleed secondhand items only to find they leak now or in the not to distant future happy motoring from dowunder
Opps just recived your update on brakes good jod , not sure when you guys changed from leaded to unleaded fuel as we find the unleaded fuel brakes down residule leaded contamanets causing simlar problems . now when i buy an older car i always remove the tank and clean then treat with red coat product of usa ,other problem is swelling (internal) of any rubber hoses in your fuel system .
Please enlighten me as to where to hook it up. I have no open ports on the carb or manifold. As of now, on the advice of a mechanic, I have capped the open port on the vacuum advance.
You will have a port on your carb. It isn't a full/always on vacuum, it will vary with engine rpm. It sounds as if you have a vacuum gauge put it on a capped port and find one that varies with your rpm. Your hesitation problem is NOT a fuel pump problem, they will knock or leak but not cause a hesitation. Where I would look (next) is at the carb, you have little pumps/diaphragms in there that will dry out and or gum up or the passages will clog. When your engine is cold the choke compensates for the loss of fuel by reducing the amount of air mixture. You can check for this by simply removing your breather and then lookdown the carb venturies and move the throttle with your hand (engine off by the way) you should see fuel shoot down the holes. By the way whoever this machanic is that told you to cap your vacuum advance please never go to him again!!!!!
The diaphragms in the carb were already replaced. As I said I have no unused port on my carb. The guy who told me to cap the port is reliable. I have noticed on other 351W that the vacuum advance only has one vacuum connection. It is possible that the advance on my car is not the correct one. As I stated in an earlier post, I have already checked the jets by hand, and they are squirting fuel as they should. Let's just forget it. I'll find the answer someplace else.
Sorry allizdog, I did not realize you had a dual port vacuum advance I haven't seen one of those since the 80's. Yes your machanic is probably right then to just block it off. I'm not sure but do you have a ported temperature activated vacuum switch on your manifold (coolant cross over) where it could hook up? My squire has one but it is no longer used. Good luck with your search to resolve the problem(s) lol. We all are in the same boat or should I say wagon. Of course that's half the fun just working on it.
If you decide to upgrade the ignition you need to go with a DurasparkII system. Stock Ford parts, very reliable. Hesitation on acceleration can be a carb adjustment, usually the accelerator pump. Or a timing issue.