'70 squire: back to the road

Don't worry about whether you show or not, membership is relaxed that way. I always point people to Green Sales Co., who deal in obsolete Ford parts.

 

I got the carb all done yesterday.
Why are these different?
I'm going to call about the a.c. solenoid today. I don't know a better name for it. The one that I have works, even though it's ugly. So I bolted it on anyways for now.

 

They might be different manufacturers, or they might be manufactured at different times, but they should have a vacuum rating etched on the wide end, and if your carb is bone stock (and I can be wrong about this as I haven't had to replace one in many years), it should have an '8.' You can also do a quick test of the diaphragm by putting your lips to the wide end and drawing a bit of suction (no comments from the Peanut Gallery).

 

Okay, then. I will refrain on my proposed comment questioning the intent to morally corrupt a victim of carburetor suspicious malfunction

 

I got the carb mounted. And the lmc fuel line worked perfect. I will have to tweak it just a little to keep it from rubbing stuff, but it fits great otherwise. I ran the pump inlet to a gas jug. Unfortunaly, it helped me figure out that the fuel pump isn't working. Oh well, new pump it is.

 

If you have a mirror and flashlight, check the pump eccentric, to ensure it's not only in place but, if the center bolt's coming out, the cam gear's in danger of falling off.

 

The good news it, if the fuel pump is bad, it shouldn't be difficult to replace.

 

Back at it today. The fuel pump is pretty easy. The air conditioning compressor is massive and pretty obstructive. But nothing like today's cars in difficulty.

Another note, I did verify the block number was D0VE A so it's for sure an original 429 engine. That's always nice.

 

Well, I got it running. But it was spitting fuel out of the top of the carb. Lots of fuel. Guess I need to either figure that out or send it to the local carb guy.

Also, I wanted to put water in it to try to get it up to temp and sure enough, a core plug had a rust hole in it. So there's another thing on the list.

 

That's pretty awesome.

 

Dammit, you stole my emoji!

 

First thing I would check is that the float level is properly adjusted and the needle and seat are not sticking. Was the float in good shape? Did you check it for pin holes and/or buoyancy? Could also be fuel pressure from the pump is too high blowing past the needle and seat. I've never worked on that specific carb, but it can't be that difficult.

 

The float was in good shape. The float was set at 7/16" when I assembled it on the bench. I'm going to check pressure on the new pump and if that IS in spec (less than 6psi?) I will pull the top off and check the float. If the pressure IS NOT in spec, how would a fella go about adjusting it?

 

The carb requires a screw-in fuel filter; that is the needle and seat's pressure regulator. You can remove the 2150's top while it's installed on the engine; this way, you can observe the float itself and whether the needle correctly seats. When checking pressure, idle speed pressure should be about 5 psi, wavering from 4 to 6, then as engine speed increases, the pressure should steady out, be between 5 and 6 PSI.

 

My apologies.