Its times like that, that I wish I had a video camera. Document whatever you can with pics, because it won't be long before the 70's wagons need that kind of surgery too.
hey Stormin Norman, When I decapitate the roof from the posts I will take some pics...might even do a youtube video.....yes it would be good info because this kind of repair comes up from time to time....I have never attempted any kind of work like this ,but I am aware measure three times & cut once...have already cut the skin off the roof so it won't be so heavy as in my earlier posts
Times like this, that a laser saw or water saw would be the perfect tool. I've seen them work and they make such a smooth, precise cut, that you'd swear the edges were polished! I can't wait to see the progress!
hey never even heard of a laser saw or water saw....as long as it cuts through the metal like butter would be a good choice....I think I am going to stick with my trusted dewalt 1/4" grinder cutter to do the job....Do you think I should brace the wagon from inside to insure that the body doesn't flex and there is good fitment of the new roof?
Have you seen the new battery-operated jigsaws? I've got a 120 VAC Bosch, and I'm just waiting to see the battery models here. I got spoiled with that sweet saw. No vibration, just smooth cutting. Blades aren't very long though for your task.
What's the body construction of the Falcon (I forget)? You're going about the roof replacement the right way. Putting the sleeves in are critical to restore the original strength of the area. That's the same process used to 'clip' a unibody car that experienced body techs used - cutting through the 'A' pillars, rocker panels and acoss the floorpan to replace a smashed rear section and putting on one from a vehicle that's had a wrecked front end. As long as your welds are good, it should be OK. As to welding, what type are you using? I would also recommend supporting the body. You want the 'tension' on the roof area to be 'neutral' when you cut if off. Support needed at the front, under the torque boxes, mid-way down the rockers, ahead of the rear wheels, and at the back end. Measure door gaps, etc. before you cut the top off, and adjust your support so you have those same gaps when you weld the new top on.
krash Kadillak, the falcons are unibody in design....Since again the roof damage is so extensive in the inner structure it will be necessary to fix it the right way...there is no bandaid for it...if you check out spike tv they did a '73 buick by replacing the roof with a substitute '75...the only difference is they had to weld 6 posts compared to 8 for my wagon...I am still looking for a roof replacement but when I buy it then I can measure everything up real good...using a good mig welder is essential in a nice factory fix...I will definetly be in new territory with this one but it makes a lot of sense otherwise...not really brain science if you know what I mean...the hardest part will be raising the roof and putting it on the cut posts...it will probably have to come off and on several times to get everything to line up
No room to use a small pulley system above the car, in the garage? 4 - 2" or 3" pulleys, and some nylon drapery/blinds cord (smooth and flexible - precise movement). The roof can't weigh more than 300 lbs.
im dooly impressed that you havent thrown in the towel on it after all this....mine will seem like a breeze....when should i bring it down???
Today finished off disassembling the 289 by hammering out the freeze plugs...now she is a total naked lady...off goes the 289 for hot tanking/fluxing...turned my attention to taking out the steering column as well as steering box....got hung up on a few things
Went walking to a local Safeway, via a back alley, and saw a guy working on his 1965 Caliente. Gave him a big thumbs up. Don't know if he has spare parts or not, but I can ask him, if you're looking for stuff.