1978 Oldsmobile Toronado XS

The EGR valve can be mounted directly to the manifold without the adapter as the interface is identical. A photo of the port is below. (No, I haven't cleaned it yet. Still have to scrape off remnants of the old gasket.) As we've said, I think the purpose of this was simply to move the valve out farther so the air cleaner could sit lower. There's no mention of this adapter in the chassis service manual that I can find. All references to removing the valve simply say "remove two bolts and remove valve." It's not necessary to remove the adapter in order to remove the valve. I only did it because I thought it would be a good idea to replace the gasket. Little did I know that I would end up with a broken adapter and the need for $75 worth of repairs to it.

 

Here's a diagram out of the '78 chassis service manual actually showing the EGR valve adapter (I've been calling it that for lack of a better term, and I turned out to be right!). The adapter is "Toro" only.

That's one thing that annoys me at times about these service manuals. As a rule, they're not well indexed (at least, the GM manuals aren't--I have no experience with the manuals from other makes), and sometimes the diagram you need is not in the section of the manual where you would expect to find it, so you end up flipping through several other sections, hoping to stumble across a diagram that could help.

In this manual, there is an extensive section on Engine Emission Control components, and the EGR valve is extensively covered, including how it operates and how it can be tested. But nowhere in that section is there a diagram showing the valve actually mounted on the engine, and there is no mention at all of the presence of an adapter for some models (Toronado). The diagram below is from 100 pages earlier in the manual, where it is specifically discussing the different engines available. So it's not like the diagram is in the section on bumpers or front suspension, where you would not expect it at all, but how hard would it have been to put a little note in the section on EGR saying something like "see Figure such-and-such on page such-and-such for EGR valve mounting" or something like that? That's a common problem in these service manuals. They will often discuss at length a component you want to service, but they never tell you where on the engine or on the car to find it!!!

 

That's a good reason why they break--with only 25 lb-ft attaching torque, when the gasket begins leaking, some moron tightens it further. Then it breaks. All it takes is a monkey-fisted shadetree doofus to ruin a hard-to-find part.

 

To conclude this story, I put what vacuum hoses I could (more about that in a moment) back on the car and started it up. Success. It started fine and ran smoothly, even at low idle. Drove it around the neighborhood with no problems. No stalling, no coughing and stumbling, no black smoke, required only minor adjustments to the idle mixture screws.


But I still have vacuum line issues. The entire air cleaner vacuum system ("Thermostatic Air Cleaner") is disconnected and cannot be reconnected because the vacuum hose barbs on this temperature sensor/vacuum switch thingy (stop me if I'm getting too technical), which is attached to the air cleaner on the opposite side from the snorkel, are broken off (second photo below). I'm working with a fellow who is parting out a '78 Toro, and this part on his car looks OK, so I'll probably get that.

Obviously the car runs and seems to run fine without any of this air cleaner vacuum system functioning, but it just seems that if I can get it back to factory configuration as much as possible, so much the better.


Here's a couple of photos of the broken piece. Exciting, I know. But stories are always better with pictures!




Here's a photo with the air cleaner reinstalled. While I was idling away the time waiting for EGR valve adapters to be welded and so forth, I painted the air cleaner cover, the snorkel, and the valve covers, and I put an "Oldsmobile 403" sticker on the cover. Yes, I know, that's not correct for a Toronado as there should be a blue "Torondao - Front Wheel Drive" sticker on there. The sticker that was there was a deteriorated mess, so I pulled it off. I have not been able to find a replacement sticker at any of the usual sticker sources, but I'll keep looking.

"Oldsmobile 403" stickers are available, and since it IS a 403, I thought that this is better than a blank cover. If I ever do come across the correct Toronado sticker, I can replace this one.






Here's a view from the side showing the new EGR valve on its repaired adapter. There's just enough room for it.

Yes, I used yellow tie-wraps to hold down the coolant overflow hose and to hold the fan shroud in place. I could have used black ones, so you'd hardly notice them, but yellow makes a statement, don't you think?

I had to use tie-wraps because the plastic part of the shroud that holds the nut in place when you insert the bolts broke off when I removed the shroud to get at the water pump, etc. I'll have to look around for a replacement shroud, but that's a low priority.

There is supposed to be a small metal tube that connects the grommet on the side of the air cleaner visible just above the EGR valve to the grommet on that valve cover filter or whatever it's called just below the EGR valve. I have that tube, but I've been removing and installing the air cleaner so much that I didn't want to have to keep connecting and disconnecting it. It will go on once I get all the air cleaner vacuum hose issues dealt with.

And, no, I don't have the spark plug wires attached to those little loom mounting points on the valve covers because all of the looms are broken. More little pieces to be on the lookout for.

 

You have made great progress. The TAC system is generally for cold engine start, or for very cold air conditions, so as long as the temp outside's warm, not too humid, you shouldn't have any carb icing problems or stumble/stall if you give it a minute or so to warm up. I also noticed the alternator pivot bracket's the stamped steel one; resist any temptation to go to the aluminum ones Olds offered at that time; they're prone to cracking/breaking under heavy electrical load.

 

Car went to the paint shop today. The photos below are it sitting in the lot outside. The next time you see it -- the next time I see it -- it will be repainted in that color. Probably several weeks before I get it back.

In case anyone was wondering, the trim around the headlights has already been removed. I removed it to replace the headlights, and I didn't put it back in anticipation of the paint job.

Yes, the antenna doesn't go down all the way. But it does go all the way up when the radio, which still works fine, is turned on. Another job for later.







You've heard of the best little whorehouse in Texas? Well, this is the best little paint and body shop in New Mexico. This guy is great. Charges a very reasonable rate, and does a great job. A little shop out at the edge of town, but he gets a lot of business, including lots from the local university.

 

Are those Toronado wheels chromed? Or painted, but really clean? I can see a reflection in the RF one.

 

They are chromed. Here's a closer view of one of them. They do have some deterioration. This is actually one of the better ones.




To be honest, I don't particularly care for these wheels. They can take either a small center hubcap that just covers the lug nut area, as shown here,




Or they can hold full wheelcovers, which I don't have a picture of on the car but I do have a picture of. The car did come with the full covers.




I've not had a chance to do anything with the full covers, even clean them, but I think I'm going to use those instead of the smaller ones for two reasons. The full covers will cover the deteriorated chrome, and, with any luck, the full covers won't rattle. Even though they fit snugly, the smaller covers rattle every time the car goes over a bump. When I first had the car back on the road, I heard a can-of-nails sound every time I went over a bump, and I thought there was something loose in the front end. Then I realized that it was probably the wheelcovers when I inadvertently bumped into a wheel once with my foot as I was walking past it, and it made the same sound. I took off all four covers, and, voila, no more can of nails sound when going over bumps.

The wheels themselves are a bit rusty along the bead as you can see in the photo above, and I really wouldn't mind a nice set of regular wheels on which I can put the full covers. That's a later project. I also need to get new tires. These on the car are serviceable for now, but they're worn.

 

I'd stick with the factory wheel covers. I like originality above all else!

 

I hear you, but it makes it a nightmare if/when something is revised, edited, or deleted in the manual. Nobody wants to sit down and read through a 350 page manual to make sure every figure and page reference is correct. I usually try to avoid calling out specific page numbers or figures in the manuals I have to write for this reason. I do at least try to reference a section of the manual so the end user at least has an idea of where to look. Even that has its issues.

Overall the car is coming together nicely. I am assuming since it is going to paint that there weren't any rust issues? Are you doing anything with the vinyl top or leaving it alone?

 

Interesting...of all the Toronados and Eldorados I've worked on, I have never seen a chromed set. If it were my car, I would clean/straighten/rechrome them and shod them in period-correct rubber, then with the center caps, use them for shows. Have your second set with your modern tires and wheel covers for actual driving.

 

I think that both sets of covers are factory. The full wheelcovers were standard and the chrome wheels with the center covers were an option, possibly available at the dealer. The center caps DO have "Oldsmobile" written on them.

I have the original invoice for the car, obtained from the GM Heritage Center, and there is no mention of optional wheels. Only an extra $55 for whitewalls.

 

Standard equipment on the '78 Toro was steel-belted radial tires, so I think that modern radials would be as period correct as anything, assuming I could get whitewalls. They wouldn't, of course, have the old-style "JR78-15" or however the size was expressed written on the side. I think for now I'll stick with one set of good tires and wheels. I've got enough money into this car with more yet to go that I think can forgo, for now at least, having eight wheels and eight tires for it.

 

True, it would be in the future...I do make the assumption (I know, I know...) that you will be taking it to shows.

 

I'll probably take it to shows now and then, but, to be honest, since buying my first collector car, a '64 Olds Jetstar 88, back in 1991, I've gotten tired of the car show thing. I love going to them as a spectator because when I'm done looking at the cars, I can leave, and I'm happy to show my car to anyone who wants to look at it if I do bring it to a show. But about a half hour after arriving and setting out my folding chair and cleaning the car and whatnot, I'm bored. I can look at the other cars that show up only so many times. Give me 15 minutes, and that's done. I don't have that much to say to the other people who bring their cars to the show, most of whom have cars (Chevys, Fords) or trucks (with wild horses painted on the side) that are nothing like mine and therefore we have very little to talk about. The only shows I've really enjoyed taking my cars to over the years and where I don't get bored are Oldsmobile shows put on by local chapters of the Olds Club of America and, of course, the OCA Nationals themselves.

I always remember taking the Jetstar, after I'd gotten it all fixed up and repainted, to a local cruise-in and having a guy come up to me and ask "where'd you get the neat Impala?" Ugh.

People from the Toronado chapter of the OCA are encouraging me to bring it the Nationals this years, which happen to be in Albuquerque in July. That's only about 220 miles from me. But I don't see it happening. I just don't trust a car this old to a 440-mile round trip in summer desert heat. Plus, at the moment at least, the A/C on the car does not work, and I'm sure as heck not driving that far in 100 degree heat in a non-air-conditioned car. I might be able to get it fixed by then, but I don't know. It'll probably need to be converted to the modern refrigerant, and the whole thing will probably cost $1000 to $1500. That will likely be something I do when the budget recovers from the repaint job, and that's not going to happen in the month between when I get the car back from the paint shop and when the Nationals are taking place.

I generally look at my collector cars as around-town cars. I like to get them out, drive them, and then park them in my garage when I'm done.