1957 country sedan build

I'm glad to see that you are hard at it. Looking forward to watching this project as it progresses.

 

Well the other side is really stuck. I even deformed the fork I am using. So I will try again tomorrow and this weekend☹️.

mike

 

FINALLY!!!!!

I got the springs and PS unit out of the car. I now have one more ball joint on each side to take out and I hope the fork holds up. I had to reform it once already, bloody Chinese made tools. I had to destroy one nut on a lower ball joint (probably my fault) and the nut holding the PS ball stud on. So on Sat. I will try and break the other ball joints loose and remove the control arms. I fully expect there to be problems on the lower A arm bushings. SO, what is the best way to get rusted/corroded/dirty bolts and bushings out of the lower arms?

Mike

 

Well had a great day today. I broke the last of the ball joints loose and took out the spindles and upper A arms. I could not get the lowers out as i did not have the wrenches to get the bolts out. Do I have to have the upper bushings pressed out to get the shafts out of the upper arms? One rotated in the bushings, the other did not, so I don't know what portends.

On a side note, went to my first swap meet this year in Alameda and scored this A/C unit. It was first charged in 65 and according to the seller the motor runs! I hope I can use it, anybody have thoughs on how well these work with the new freons? . Slowly taking apart the steering parts and will have to cut more nuts off . I break them loose, unscrew them to the last few threads and then they stop as the tie rod starts to spin in its case. Oh well, I will try and get the lower arms out next weekend.

Mike

 

Just a side note on the lower bolts in the control arms. The bolts that run through the frame can be impossible to remove after you get the attaching nuts loose. I've watched guys beat on them a long while and not move. I've also seen them come right out too. They should be replaced since you've gone this far. These bolts are available from different suppliers so don't worry about destroying them getting them out.

 

All part of the adventure when you are restoring a 64 year old car that sat for decades. I'm glad to see you are making steady progress. Keep up the good work.

 

Yep, I got lucky and dad restored the Model A and I am just doing the up keep on her. But the wagon is my car to restore-after I re-restore the Model A. So I will be busy for the next 15 years-I hope.

Mike

 

That A/C unit can have 134a running through it, but you need a compatible compressor for it; the York ones are not, '70s Frigidaire ones are. And because of their age, I highly recommend replacing the hoses. There's no telling if they're rotting inside or not, but there are much newer, much better rubber formulas now, as well as using HNBR o-rings in place of the old Buna-N ones.

 

Thanks Andrew,

I have a compressor that I got off of a 74/75 390 that would need a rebuild if I were to use it. If not I will have to buy a newer compressor. I may need to get a new one anyways as this one had been sitting outside for I don't know how long. Also still not sure how I am going to plumb it (hose wise) into the car. The original owners plumbed it through the firewall in front of the driver almost-not through the passenger side where they usually go.

Mike

 

Does the compressor look like this?



If so, it's a York. Problem is, the Frigidaire ones under Ford hoods were on full-size cars to '78, and on 'downsized' full-size cars for '79-80. And they're not easy to find. Also, the plumbing was determined by evaporator location, and on the underdash units, that meant driver's side of center, because the York compressors had the fittings pointing to the driver's side. With any axial compressor, you should be able to locate the compressor on either side of the engine, and then select a condenser that has both fittings on one side according to how you plumb the system.

 

Yep it looks an awful lot like that one. No big deal to get a new one. Little more money but if I have to then I have to. Don’t need it for awhile yet so not in a hurry.

thanks,

mike

 

You're welcome. There are A/C companies that likely can conjure up parts to mount a proper compressor.

 

Tomorrow I am going to have a go at the lower control arms, I have been soaking them with either kroil or WD40 every so often so I am hoping that they are thoroughly soaked by then. Are these arms good to go where the spring sits? It looks like they got a little banged up as there is a lip where the shock sits inboard. I also discovered that I am pulling the original suspension apart as the rivets that hold the upper ball joints are there and have a waffle pattern.

Second question is this, do I have the inner sleeve still left on the idler arm? If so, how do I get it off of the stud, cut, heat, twist, what? I ordered a spare spindle and two visor brackets from a yard in 29 Palms (forget the gentleman's name) But he sent me a great looking left spindle that was even blasted!

Thank you,

Mike

 

It should come right off without pressing, but rust may be a culprit. So, one suggestion, put two nuts together and torque them together. That should give you a fulcrum to turn the stud with a box wrench, then use channel lock or Vise-Grip pliers to grab the sleeve and turn them against each other. If the sleeve flat-out refuses to turn, you may have to cut the sleeve lengthwise, very carefully, in order to split it enough to remove it.

 

Ok, got the lower arms out-quite easily actually. So now I am scared that something is wrong :003:. Got the arms out and noticed that one of the bushing cases is ripped and then I noticed that the arm has a tear where the bushing goes. Is this weldable or should I just get another arm?

Mike