This isn't very techy, but I wanted to show how I recycled the 1982 4 door sedan Zephyr panels into my Squire. First of all, my panels didn't have the vinyl door sill pad. I think they're called 'half panels'. Mine had door speaker cut outs and the carpet base was all ratty, faded and wimpy. The sedan's panels were in good shape except the lower vinyl around the armrests and door handles. My bench seats had velour cloth, and they were faded, but not worn out, so I used SEMS Camel Vinyl Color Coat and dyed the centre pleated sections which were just a bit too wide (height on the door panels) and just long enough for the door panels. Plus they had a 3/8" exterior foam (sun-protection) to create the pleats. I used Elmer's spray adhesive to bond them to the original panels. I had to add two keyhole slots for the door clips (1/2" drill and 1/4" drill) in the 1982 front panels. I also had to round out the rear bottom corner of the 1982 corners to match the metal curve of the front doors on the Squire, by about 3/8" (quick jigsaw trim): Driver's side rear panel: Driver's front panel layers: It got too cool outside for the glue to set by 8:30 this evening, so I'll finish the assembly tomorrow. I could have used new backer panels, but these were in great shape and the keyholes were fine. What I did do, is swapped them from one side to the other to avoid the short staples at the carpet base to stay firm in new material, rather than slip into the old holes. I glued the bottom edge first, then stapled it so I could tug on the cloth panel and fit, trim and glue the sides first (rear edge first). I hand-stitched the carpet base to the velour (too thick for a domestic machine). Once it is glued onto the backer panel, nothing moves. I haven't cut the holes yet for the armrests or door handles.
I just have to do the cutouts for the armrests and door handles and glue them to the back of the panel. They came out good. That Camel color absorbs differently on the vinyl vs. fabric/carpet. Same number of coats (3), but it looks fine.
Norm, I plan on re-dying (painting) my entire interior, dash, door panels, interior quarter panels, and anything else that needs it from Ginger to Blue. Dearborn Classic carries the correct paint shades to do this and they also sell some sort of pre-treatment. Besides a thorough soapy water cleaning, what special treatment do I need to do to prep the surface for good adhesion. Any ideas?? I'd hate to go through the whole process just to have it flake off. I figure you've done your's so you'd know. Thanks in advance. In the intel gathering stage at this point
Check with Dearborn's product label or ask for the MSDS sheet (Material Specs) to see what PRE-prep materials to use. But POST-finish on fabrics (not vinyl) use 3M's Scotchguard spray to keep stains off. On vinyl without dye, some guys use Pledge or Armor-All. I'd stick to whatever the MSDS sheet says for cleaning the finish. If they don't recommend any, use soap and water. Avoid using cleaners with abrasives or silicone. (No Ajax or Armor-All) Leather cleaners have abrasives and so do many creams. One product that Ford had for their vinyl roofs is probably the best. Dealer product. If Dearborns products are the SEMS line, then use the SEMS cleaners and soap to Prep. Hope that helps.
Thanks for the info. I have the cataloge at home so I will review it and make sure what's what. I only plan on spraying the plastic/vinyl pieces. The headliner, seat upholstery, and carpet will all be new. I remember my brother didn't use any sort of pre-treatment when he painted his interior pieces and it eventually came off pretty easy. Any little scratch made it just look bad. I have plenty of work to do already and would rather not do double the work. :banghead3:
Old vinyl emits the 'New Car Smell' for a few months. After years of sunlight, it starts to lose it's elasticity, as well as color. The SEMS liquid cleaner helps their products 'etch' into the surface. Their soap helps get rid of the oxides (dry surface skin). Start with liquid laundry detergent and water, then use the vinyl soap, then wipe off any residue with the liquid stuff. If you have to get old oil or paint overspray, do that AFTER the laundry detergent cleaning. Old lacquer paint overpray may come off with that first step. If not, use paint thinners or acetone, FRUGALLY. Acetone or lacquer thinners will dry out the vinyl faster. Mineral-spirits won't. Most paint thinners are mineral-spirits based.
