rear differential 1070 Ford CS

Hello again. Back with my differential issues. I have finally managed to take the time and make a correct diagnostic of my differential case. The bad noise comes from the inside so I will order a third member from *just rear ends* or from *staticZ2229* on ebay who has excellent feedback. Both quote around 850 USD. Has anyone had experience with either of these guys ? The ebay guy actually seems more professional and prompt. I have a 9 inch diff. How about ratios ? I have a 1970 countrys squire in excellent orignal condition, very well taken care of and I intend to not race or bruise it. Simply easy cruising. Is 3.50 a good choice ? Thks. Patrick

 

Can't speak for the company , but the gear ratio sounds good !!
Besides if you change it your speedo will not read correctly

 

wrong third member for rear differential 1970 CS

the saga continues. After I received the parts from a 100 per cent positive feedback ebay seller my mechanic found the parts to be not fitting. I bought this aftermarket mild performance third member and it does not fit. I will send it back and try to work something out with the seller. We also checked the wheelbearings again and they were completely shot. Badly worn out, the balls rusty and really worn. So the mechanic now thinks the grinding noise might not come from the differential box but from the badly worn wheelbearings. We ordered new wheelbearings and will put those on as soon as the parts arrive from the US. With a bit of luck this might solve the problem. This is taking so long since I do not always have time to take car into the shop, I refuse to drive the Squire when it is raining since my squire body is so pristine underneath, it takes time to identify parts and ship them from the USA. If it turns out I must still buy a third member how do I correctly identify the right parts ? The seller will exchange the wrong third member but we must now make sure the next set is actually fitting. I have 2.75 gear ratio and 31 splines third member. I also have the metal tab attached to the diff box with all the numbers. I found a used third member on ebay off of a 69 ford galaxie, same ratio, same number of splines. But the numbers etched into the metal tab are not the same as the numbers on my metal tab :confused:, except for ratio and spline numbers. Can anybody help me decode the numbers on the metal flap if I post a picture ?? Are the differential gears really this fragile ? What is for sure is that the previous owner (owned car for 10 years) did not correctly check fluid level in box so it appears rather dry. But the car has not been raced or otherwise brutalized. Mostly been driven only occasionnally and sitting in garage. Thks guys~!

 

Hello guys. I forgot to post the outcome of my rear diff box search.
I finally found the fitting parts paid s thousand dollars and
Had them shipped to Europe. Turns out the only problem was the
Bad wheel bearings!!! The car runs super smooth now and I am sitting
On a brand new set of rear differentials. Still wrapped. I will post them on the for sale page
Along with the sales receipt and the detailed invoice. So much for knowing my car.
It runs great now. Next job will be a carb replacement. When the engine is turned off
With the engine hot the car will not start unless I crank it long. There is heat ang gas fumes in carb. Is replacement
The only option? Patrick

 

For the carb problem, it sounds like it may be a very simply fix. On the newer Ford carburetors, there is a spacer that acts as a thermal break to keep the heat from the manifold from boiling the fuel in the bowl, which is what I suspect is happening. Check to see if you have a spacer. They are readily available, and only cost about $10, at the most, including the gaskets for either side. You may need longer studs to hold the carb down, but they are also inexpensive, being little more than headless bolts. Also, check the float level on the bowl. If it is a bit too high the fuel can boil over and flood the engine. Either way, it is likely a LOT easier than rebuilding the carburetor unless you have reason to do so anyway.

 

carb fuel boiling

Hello. Thks. I ran your mail by my mechanic and he shares your thought. Now I need to order the parts. Could you please refer me to an internet seller who would carry these parts. What is the correct denomination of the parts you described so I can hunt them on the www or on ebay ? Thks bunches for your help. Patrick