Woodgrain stripping

Discussion in 'Cosmetic & Restoration' started by patrick80, Oct 4, 2012.

  1. patrick80

    patrick80 Wagonista!

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    The fun has begun. After owning this Colony Park wagon since May '12, I've decided to remove the top layer of woodgraining off the car. It was applied over a half-a$$ed attempt by a PO to remove the original woodgrain, so actually, there are two layers to remove. What a PITA this is proving to be!

    I started yesterday by removing the top layer off the left front fender. Now, I'm pretty committed to the whole process! It peeled right off. Underneath, it was the remains of the original woodgrain. Parts were like new, parts were where the original was half-removed and left alone, and parts were partially scraped down. I used a product called "Aircraft Decal and Adhesive Remover" (on the can, it says "Not for use on aircraft!"...really!). I followed the directions and got slowly down to the paint, but only on about a fifth of the fender. This is going to take quite a while! Can't quit now, right?

    The can says to wait 20 - 30 minutes after application, then scrape away with a flexible scraper. I did this - twice - and managed to get several sections down to the original paint. The paint is in great shape, so far. It's going to take a few cans of this stuff (@$14.50 USD/can!) to make any headway with this.

    My thoughts have been to do one of two things to replace the woodgrain - have a wrap done, or paint the woodgrain on. Either way, the prep work to have the end product come out right is going to be long and tedious.

    Pics will be added shortly...
     
  2. patrick80

    patrick80 Wagonista!

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    Pics. One is of the passenger fender, the other is the driver's fender that I removed the second applique.
     

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  3. Zal

    Zal Zenior Member

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    Looks good. I'll take my tips from you when the time comes, and it is coming soon. Keep up the good work!
     
  4. 1964countrysedan

    1964countrysedan Well-Known Member

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    I am sure it is a BIG BIG BIG job. I have not done it. I have removed tint from numerous windows and it is not fun. I found a hot blow dryer to be very helpful.

    Would making cuts in long strips about 2 inches apart help the chemical remover penetrate?
     
  5. patrick80

    patrick80 Wagonista!

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    I'm going to get a heat gun. I've found a blow dryer does not have the right heat settings to be useful. Tried that this afternoon, and the blow dryer had very little effect.

    The top layer came right off, by hand. The original layer is pretty well cooked on (the car originated in north central Florida), so it's going to take considerable effort to remove without destroying the perfect paint underneath. I don't believe cuts will achieve much more than harming the underlying paint.

    The weekend weather is supposed to really be crappy and cold, so I'm not sure how much progress will be made. We'll see what transpires.
     
  6. BlueVista

    BlueVista Well-Known Member Charter Member

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    A heat gun is about the only thing that works any good but don't leave the heat concentrated in one spot too long or you could warp a panel or burn the paint. I used a singe edge razor blade in a holder to peel the stuff off when I did my former Vista Cruiser but I wasn't worried about the paint underneath either.
    I did an original resto and I wanted the car as correct as reasonably possible so I used the digital woodgrain printed on 3M High Performance cast vinyl film then cleared.
     
  7. patrick80

    patrick80 Wagonista!

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    Yesterday, I started pulling the upper layer of woodgrain vinyl off in earnest. The right front fender peeled off in one big piece! The tailgate came off nearly as easily. The rest of the car...not so much. It intends to put up a fight.

    I took the car to a guy that does car wraps. He priced my job at a little over $14.00/sq. ft., which comes out to right at $800.00. Takes one full day to do it. And that is if I strip the old wood grain off to the paint, as that is the only way he'll guarantee it from peeling. He claims that if I garage the car (which I do), the job should last from 5 - 6 years without fading. Not bad, considering that new wood grain material, cut to fit from a couple of different sources, is nearly $1,000 without installation! The wrap guy suggested using lacquer thinner to remove that wood grain from the Merc. I'll have to try that on the LF fender, since part of that is actually down to the paint now.

    The wraps sounds good to me. The car is 22 years old, and I really doubt I'll keep it longer than six years. I tend to sell, and then buy a new driver every 12 months or so.

    Gotta start peeling woodgrain again this evening, after watching the VP get schooled on TV tonight...should be fun!
     
  8. silverfox

    silverfox New Member

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    Good luck, Pat and be sure to show us pix of the finished product with that wrap on there!(y)
     
  9. Zal

    Zal Zenior Member

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    I'm enjoying this thread as I see myself doing this in the near future. I think it might be time to put the wagon away for the winter.
     
  10. patrick80

    patrick80 Wagonista!

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    Some pics of the top vinyl removal...
     

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  11. Fat Tedy

    Fat Tedy Island Red Neck

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    :tiphat:'s off to you. Thats a big job and one you have to be comited too. Gawd....I fear the day when I...........
     
  12. Krash Kadillak

    Krash Kadillak Well-Known Member

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    Patrick - In viewing the left fender, it looks like the entire area under the wood is painted brown. Or am I seeing things?
     
  13. patrick80

    patrick80 Wagonista!

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    That is where the original woodgrain material was chemically stripped by me, and the brown underlayment of the material remained. I think the original owner tried to "compensate" for the loss of the original woodgrain in other spots by simply painting the bad areas dark brown. Looks like crap, and that is another reason why I'm wanting to fix the current situation by replacing all that.

    Still haven't decided whether to strip and paint over, strip and wrap, or strip and get the reproduction design from wagonmaster or another source. Then, there is always the possibility of stripping it and simply painting it body-color, leaving off the woodgrain, but retaining the trim around it. Choices, choices, but all are spendy.:(

    I have a neighbor that does soda-blasting professionally. I'm going to see if he can offer any insight about stripping the material off. It might be worth a hundred bucks an hour (what he charges) to do that. It'll remove the paint underneath, as well, but that may well be the best choice, in both time and money spent.
     
  14. Fat Tedy

    Fat Tedy Island Red Neck

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    Mite be worth the couple hun$ in the long run. Your time is valuble also.....gona take a fair bit of time to remove it on your own.......
     
  15. the Rev

    the Rev senior junior Charter Member

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    looks like you cars Leper:rofl2::rofl2:
    hows life Pat?

    thats what they did on some of the old ones...the wood was put over a primer of sorts:yup:
     

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