wood decal

Hey Stormin How did you remove the woodsiding on your Fairmont?

 

I tried 3M's Decal and Adhesive remover:

A) It's too expensive for such a big job.
B) It's not really effective on old woodie siding.

So I used Lepage's Super Poly-Strippa - the same stuff used for paint and varnish. BUT!

You need rubber gloves! My hands have been hardened in every chemical used in cars and furniture restoration, and that stripper is the meanest junkyard dog of them all! No mercy. I'm not kidding. I don't care if you fried your hands in battery acid for days. It is mean on human flesh!

AND, you need to wipe off the excess, after scraping off what you can (sometimes 3 or 4 passes), with water, and finally with clean water. If you don't, you'll have to sand it off. The old dried up residue doesn't respond too well to a future attempt. I found out the hard way.

It took 4 X 1 quart cans to do it all, and I have about half a quart left. It cost less than 1 quart of the 3M product for all 4!

The 3M stuff takes too much rubbing and heavy coats, but its like water, not a gel, so it just runs down, like varsol.

If its still not quite dry (hardened), you can use mineral spirits to soften it up and scrape off with a plastic scraper (to avoid scratching the paint).

Hope that helps.

 

It does.. Where did you find it?

 

Home Depot or Rona or most hardware/home paint stores, and probably Ace or Walmart in the US. (Paint departments)

There's one product called 1873 or 1863 which is similar, but costs too much and isn't as strong. It's more for Varnish and Shellac (fine furniture kinds of old finishes).

Now since many owners use silicone-waxes or cleaners like Armor All, you may want to start with a Degreaser/Wax Cleaner/remover (bodyshop supply or good automotive retailer) to start with. 1 quart is plenty. Just a quick wipe-down. Even that Stripper takes a while to eat through silicone.

 

Thanks Stormin, I'll check Home Depot.

 

You can pick up a box of the surgical gloves (50 pairs) at a grocery store with a pharmacy. Just change when they tear. You need to have a 'feel' for the 'peel' and the regular home rubber gloves are too thick to let you 'get it'.

 

I will do that. I'll get everything ready for the next warm day when I can use water.

 

North Carolina gets frosty? Learn something new every day. Look if it feels too cold, just click on that link in my signature. Guarantee you'll get warm shivers real fast!

 

We're going to drop into the 40's in a couple of days.But it should warm up again.

 

stormins right the 3m stuff didn,t work well enough for me either and i wound up used a propane torch,,,very carefully heat and peel,,,,rolled my seat out there a cold long neck and some patience ,,,,came off nicely and no burn spots in the paint if i remember right one bottle did the whole car

 

a bottle of cerveza a bottle of chemical stripper? lol just kiddin'

 

actually a few cervases and one of propane he,he,he

 

Never thought about that method. hmmm... I can see that working well in the dips and curves around door handles and fuel doors.

 

stormin...amigo... compa...
that link under your signature says its going to be -31 C on thurs. i looked it up there jefe thats like -23 degrees Farenheit....
do you need an electric blanket? i can mail you a fire if you need it? or una gordita (a fat girl) , and im not talking tortillas here!
dayum im worried!

 

Nope, I don't work in temps below -12C (10F). I've got some work left to do on the back seat, and maybe a solution for the crack sections of my door panels.

The stuff under the hood is the worse (hoses, PB, PS pump, Alternator, carb installation) so I'll wait for a -6C day (21F). I can work bare-handed for an hour or two, come in and drink a coffee and go back to it.

Inside the car, I've got a good quartz heater (120 Volts) that shuts off if I knock it over. It can heat up a 100 sq ft room to 70F in an hour. I just turn it on for 10 minutes and work in a bikini!