What Next? 1973 Ford Contry Sedan

Discussion in 'General Automotive Tech' started by Slidemanic, Oct 11, 2016.

  1. Thirsty islander

    Thirsty islander Well-Known Member

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    Sounds like they got a few things figured out by 73. Very nice that a simple solution was found.
     
  2. Silvertwinkiehobo

    Silvertwinkiehobo "Everything that breaks starts with 'F.'"

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    I took a look in the Motor book, and it's mostly just bare-bones info. But I still think the fuse/CB was the problem. Let us know if there are any more performance drop-offs.
     
  3. Leadslead

    Leadslead Well-Known Member

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    Could be that (my shop manual says it should be a 30 amp C.B) or loose wiring or corroded connections, even possibly if its just the blower motor quitting the brushes have finally worn out, but I'd check the plug ends before diving into replacing the blower motor... its a bear to get to without cutting a hole in the inner fender well like the shop manual tells you to do.
     
  4. Slidemanic

    Slidemanic Well-Known Member

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    My parts guys at the local Ford dealer came through with another obsolete part,a D3AZ-14526-C Circuit Breaker! When I took out the original 30 Amp CB,it was HOT! Put in the new one & AC seems to work better,or is it just my imagination?
    It's funny,but I don't think the climate control system was sophisticated enough yet back then to cut in the compressor on the defrost setting,but if you put the AC on full blast it clears the windshield anyway,as happened tonight driving home after a quick stop for shopping--I could hardly see the road! Up to the red light by a freeway offramp merge on my right and boy did I need vision then! BLAST AC! and done.
     
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  5. Silvertwinkiehobo

    Silvertwinkiehobo "Everything that breaks starts with 'F.'"

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    Yeah, no one thought about that yet. IIRC, it started with computer controls, so early '80s?
     
  6. Leadslead

    Leadslead Well-Known Member

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    Wouldn't you want a slight ac on, not necessarily full on cold, but enough to dehumidify the cabin?
     
  7. Silvertwinkiehobo

    Silvertwinkiehobo "Everything that breaks starts with 'F.'"

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    That's the idea of running it on DEF, as the system won't be as efficient during a colder, more humid day as it would on a hot day. You have to have a temp differential between inside and out for the A/C to do anything.
     
  8. Thirsty islander

    Thirsty islander Well-Known Member

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    Hmmm my '64 caddy and '77 merc wagon both have the a/c come on to defrost the windshield. Of course I've never driven them in the winter LOL
     
  9. Slidemanic

    Slidemanic Well-Known Member

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    We've driven this wagon all over New England this summer,and the AC has been great. I still need to find a couple of wheels,the rear axle is getting noisier,and now with a cold start,the transmission won't engage in Drive for a longer and longer period of time. (It will engage in R,but not in 1 or 2). Once it decides to engage in D and things have warmed up a bit,it behaves normally,even with a forced downshift at 60 mph on the freeway,and it will engage in D normally. I have to figure out whether to go to my Ford dealer or to a transmission specialist,or maybe even crawl under there and do the C6 band adjustment procedure as a first step.
     
  10. Silvertwinkiehobo

    Silvertwinkiehobo "Everything that breaks starts with 'F.'"

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    At the very least, talk to a repair shop. The problem could be band adjustment, but I'd say not likely, as L and R are the same band. If reverse gear engages, you should also have first gear engagement. This sounds like a worn seal allowing fluid to bypass it when cold, but sealing just enough to allow engagement when warm and the metal components are expanded.
     
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  11. OldFox

    OldFox Curmudgeon

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    Before you try anything, warm the car up and add 1/2 pint of Sea Foam Trans Tune to it. Drive it around and then see how it acts the next day. If anything can fix it without repairs, it will.
     
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  12. Slidemanic

    Slidemanic Well-Known Member

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    I did add a similar product to the Seafoam stuff because the older tech at the Ford Dealer suggested it. No difference. I wouldn't be surprised if it is a problem like Andrew describes above.
     
  13. Silvertwinkiehobo

    Silvertwinkiehobo "Everything that breaks starts with 'F.'"

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    Yeah, if a seal conditioner (not something that swells seals) doesn't correct it, then it is time for a shop. But you can do a couple things. One, pull the vacuum modulator vacuum hose off--if it's swelled and has fluid inside, the modulator's shot, but an easy fix. Two, look at the fluid level cold while the engine is running, BUT: have someone behind the wheel with the brakes firmly held, so that they can shift it to Drive; pull the dipstick, wipe, reinsert, then pull and read. If the gear is hydraulically operating, the level will either be down or not on the dipstick (that is normal); however, if there's an internal leak, the fluid will likely return back to the pan early, keeping the pan filled, so the level will read either barely low, or unchanged. You must do this without warming the transmission.
     
  14. Slidemanic

    Slidemanic Well-Known Member

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    Ummm...I replaced the modulator, and at that time the piping & rubber tubing were OK. I didn't get a chance to do the test described above (yet). Rear axle may need a wheel bearing (wow wow wow sound). Meanwhile,the hot rod needs two tires and has to pass inspection next month,so it gets priority over the wagon.
     

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