What Next? 1973 Ford Contry Sedan

So,I received the front HD shocks w/coils and the rear air system shocks. I installed the front shocks,& what a difference! Plenty of those speed humps in my neighborhood to test with! Supposedly the Trac-Lok axle needs a total rebuild ($900.00),so maybe I'd ask the tech if he could install the air shocks while he's up to his elbows back there. The right side air shock audibly exhales while parked,both sides are 43 years old,the pump is good. At least it's not the awful Cadillac system! Basically,this car smashes its rear bumper frequently. Meanwhile,the engine stalls randomly in traffic,with EVERYTHING replaced,distributor,points,condenser,,cap,rotor,wires,plugs,EGR system,voltage regulator,brand new Motorcraft battery,carb rblt.,tested the fuel system,spark,both normal this AM,why is this happening? Along with all that,it needs control arm kits and the tech doesn't know if he can do that,might need A-arms w/ball joints. This car should be perfect by now!

 

Damnation! That is just a lot of work! And parts! I had no idea your rig had gone this far!

First, did you get around to replacing the point/condenser ignition with an electronic unit? If not, you may have a bad coil or wire causing an open when it heats up enough. I looked at the list you gave and you did not say 'coil' in it. Swapping to a Pertronix setup would give you some new wires between the unit and the 'Blaster' coil. Another possibility is the ignition switch. When the engine stalls, do the dash idiot lights come on? Does the car restart immediately, or does it crank without firing?

 

I have see a couple "New rebuilt" carbs not function properly. Brand new parts CAN be bad.
control arm and a-frame bushings CAN simply degrade over time. They weather/age crack and wear out faster after that. Generally the bushings themselves are cheap. But they do take time to replace.

 

No Pertronix yet! Yesterday morning,it cranked without firing,after running very briefly (35 degrees F.,colder than it's been here lately). The choke and its heater system & cold idle step are all reconditioned and set correctly. I took the 2004 'Stang GT to work. When I got back,I tested fuel delivery and spark,then started it normally. Later in traffic it stalled in Drive coming up to a light. The idiot lights came on. I started it back up OK and continued. I had replaced the coil twice last year. I am utilizing the points & condenser that came with the "new,not remanufactured" Chinese distributor. I had also replaced the primary wire from firewall to coil and shielded it from heat with plastic wrap. The wire from the coil to the distributor came with the distributor. I checked timing,dwell & point gap last week. When I'm done with all these other things,I want to have the C6 transmission serviced,which was last done 5 years ago.

 

Sounds like a fun project, I have nothing meaningful to add to this other than its amazing that '74 and up ford went to solid state (breaker-less) distributors.... of course all '74's where mandated seatbelt interlocks so...

 

OK, so now it's established the coil has been changed and the primary wiring from the firewall's been addressed. So I suggest checking the coil negative wire between the coil and terminal inside the dizzy, and ensure the nuts holding the point set, condenser and negative wire to the set's terminal block. I'm not sure if you want to address the ig itkon electrical switch, but if you haven't previously, a good look with a flashlight will let you know if both halves are separating (a common Ford problem before '92), which can cause an instant open, stalling the engine. My '74 Ranchero Squire had that happen, and it drove me crazy until I went to check the connector terminals and the switch halves separated.

 

Don't I have to drop the steering column to even see the ignition switch? I mean,I've done that on this car once already,but it is a PITA. When I had it visible,it looked OK,not split. And the other end of that column,I think,is leaking,and after I replaced all the hoses! And I've seen THAT movie before on the '88 Squire LX back in December 2007--$499.83 to replace the steering box. That one was pouring out fluid--this one just seems to be leaking. Seems like a lot of pressure in that system. I will crawl under there tomorrow to clean the area and to see where the leak is. And then to find out if the steering box is even available for this car, if indeed it needs one. If that can be done and I do it,that would postpone the rear axle work. Maybe I can get the air shocks in tomorrow as well!

 

Yes, that gear box should be available. Yes, dropping the column is a pain. But so is getting rear-ended because the car stalled and you haven't stepped on the brake pedal yet. If the switch is involved in the stalling, finding out now is better than having to tow the car home because it decides 'to Hell with it,' and pack it in. The dash is partly disassembled for column and ignition switch work on Babe, and yes it's a hassle. But it's a necessary evil in electrical diagnosis.

 

So I dropped the column and pulled the switch after the exact same morning cold start: Runs,stops running (would be normal for this type car--would then start) then crank/no start. I tested the continuity from the plug on the switch to the coil after I had the switch out--that was OK! I tested the switch in ACC & in Run--that tested OK. I am assuming the switch is tired inside and doesn't always connect. I ordered a new switch from the local Ford dealer--a dealership in Ohio has the switch for $92.50 +. When it is back together and running,I can get it up on ramps and have a look at that steering box leak.

 

Yeah, you have to remember, an electrical circuit creates heat, and if you have worn contacts, that can raise the resistance, thereby raising the temperature and can expand away from each other. But that's good you decided to replace the switch, even though your resistance tests were OK.

 

Just when things were going so well...I've got the steering box,the ignition switch,installing those pesky air shocks to worry about,and then using up the $900.00 I had reserved to rebuild the rear axle. The switch should arrive before the end of the week,the steering box needs a diagnostic confirmation from my mechanic before I drop maybe $650.00 on it. The thing is,it seems to be leaking only from the seal above the Pitman arm--the hose connections I did up top are dry. I saw this movie before with my '88 Country Squire,but I thought it was an '80s problem. The reviews on the reman box are iffy at best,so,new,but new is >$400.00 with labor at $230.00 or so. So,install switch,start,add Type F to PS system,go to get diagnosed,and worry about air shocks later. The asphalt in the lot at my apartment looks awful,and I forgot which kind of kitty littter works best as Speedy-Dry.

 

Why not just reseal it yourself. It's not a hard nor complicated job.

 

Imagine that! I don't have a manual for that. And wouldn't I need a puller for the Pitman arm? And then if I could,what if it blew at another seam? Anyway,the tech will look at it soon for further diagnosis.

 

Other than the hose connections, you only have the input and output shafts. There are alternatives to buying specific driver tools (I made a Ford front main seal tool from a threaded PCV pipe reducer), so it is doable. You just need to make sure the box is properly retorqued when you put it back on. And, one suggestion: undo the Pitman-to-drag link connection, leaving the pitman arm to be removed on the bench.

 

With the expensive replacement new box,everything's renewed. The tech will pull the Pitman arm on the bench. But I do want them to look at it first for a good diagnostic judgment. Stuck on the dime until I get the ignition switch. I am willing to crawl under there for some things,but I think I'm leaving this to the experts. The new box doesn't have a core deal,so in the end I'll have a heavy-duty paperweight.