Has anyone here tried using this? I just want to discuss it. I've tried 4 out of 5 Seafoam products they offer at this time; the only one I haven't tried yet is Bug B Gone. Read on... Seafoam: Regular This can be put in gas tanks as a fuel additive, crankcases to clear sludge fast (though you may not want to do that depending on the application) and through an air intake slowly to clean piston cylinders. (I've done this and it did make the engine sputter which is normal, and the sputtering stopped shortly after.) I've also used it to clean piston cylinders by pouring it into the cylinder with the spark plug off and letting it sit before flushing it out; this does work pretty well in loosening deposits that are caked on if there's something to loosen. On a weed eater which was hard to start I cleaned the cylinder out with this and added a new spark plug. I'm not sure how much of the effect was from the cleaning and how much was from the new spark plug, but now I can start the thing. It also lowered emissions on a lawnmower by this cylinder cleaning. Seafoam Spray: Same as the above type, just in Aerosol Can form. Seafoam Deep Creep: Comes in a spray can. This is a penetrating lubricant and it holds on to whatever you spray it on. I've used it and it does work, I read some say it works more effectively than P B Blaster though I haven't compared. Seafoam Trans-Tune: For Transmissions, Power Steering systems and Rack + Pinion. I used it in a power steering system which had burnt fluid, removing the old fluid and adding this. I'm not sure how fast it would have cleaned if I just kept adding and removing power steering fluid, but this did clean the whole system. I had to use almost three cans of it, and I don't think the previous owners of the car ever changed the fluid. Seafoam Bug B Gone: For cleaning bugs, bird dirt and mold in showers among other things. This is the one I haven't tried yet.
Not one bad review on Amazon, and everyone seems to love the way that it works. I don't have a bug problem here, so I have no need for it, but if I did, I would definitely give it a try based on the Amazon reviews.
Son uses it often in older engines when he buys something. He used the intake spray and gas tank aditive in his last 350 Chevy used engine. He said it didn't look like the oil had been changed in a long time. He also used a better cleaning oil. Within a week the engine locked up and threw a rod out the side of the block. After tear down the upper engine was dry! This is where the trouble started. It had 60#+ oil pressure. Apparently sludge build up losened and blocked the galleys to the cam, etc. The cam was in seven pieces and the pan was full of parts. Maybe the SeaFoam had nothing to do with it and apparently it did do a good job cleaning the engine. But a clean engine with a hole in the block and other damage is not much good. He just put anothere junk yard 350 TBI Chevy engine in his truck. This one is clean and has 30/400 imprinted in the rear of the block. Machine shop told him that's 30 over with a 400 crank and 305 heads. We'll see how many weeks this one lasts!
Oh dear me, now I'll have to think twice about using it in the crankcase. Wow. Now I'll just take it slowly with oil changes to get a clean engine if need be!
This may have been a rare case. Son bought the engine used from a Chevy van. Apparently the oil hadn't been changed regularly and there was a sludge build up. So the combination of the SeaFoam and good cleaning oil changed several times actually did their job. Everyone son talked to said those products apparently broke loose the sludge and plugged the upper galleys causing the cam etc. not to get lubricated. I know from experience that van engines get neglected. A cam in seven pieces is not a pretty site! He used the junk yard engine as it was, not checking internally. This is his second engine in a row that had a rod through the block. This next junk yard engine is from a 93 Suburban and is a 383 stroker from the codes and looking in the pan. Yes he did pull the pan, valve covers, and intake to check this one out. Since it is a peppier engine he had to use a better dist cap and external hot coil. I'd say SeaFoam used in a normally used engine should do an excellent job of cleaning it. Also the SeaFoam carb cleaner seems to help. Useage may vary. Not warrantied by Model T or his affiliates!
I did use it once in my Dad's van within (I think) 50 miles of an oil change; it didn't block anything in the engine. The van's used regularly though. As for the image above, is it showing sand from a hurricane or snow or something else?
As for the image above, is it showing sand from a hurricane or snow or something else? Maybe Fat Tedy knows.:confused: I've seen Lake Michigan and the Atlantic get lot's of foam on the white caps but nothing like this. Did you notice that three of those gals are nude?
Sea foam................... https://www.google.ca/search?q=sea+...oTCK2ioa_p2MYCFYSUiAodyqcF1w&biw=1536&bih=745 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sea_foam Yup, I'd say Sea Foam is the way to go, these cars seem to be doing fine using it! Heck, even works for the camper!
----^^^^^Yep!^^^^^^-- So don't pay $8 to $10 for a can. Just go down to the sea and get a bucket full free! Sea foam, ocean foam, beach foam, or spume is a type of foam created by the agitation of seawater, particularly when it contains higher concentrations of dissolved organic matter (including proteins, lignins, and lipids)[1] derived from sources such as the offshore breakdown of algal blooms. These compounds can act as surfactants or foaming agents. As the seawater is churned by breaking waves in the surf zone adjacent to the shore, the presence of these surfactants under these turbulent conditions traps air, forming persistent bubbles that stick to each other through surface tension. Due to its low density and persistence, foam can be blown by strong on-shore winds from the beachface inland.
I read the recipe for regular Seafoam is: "40-60% Pale oil, 25-35% Naptha, 10-20% IPA." (Isopropyl Alcohol, AKA Rubbing Alcohol.) Someone posted this on another forum... (http://www.st-owners.com/forums/sho...-is-sea-foam&p=1579511&viewfull=1#post1579511) "It's very cheap and easy to make at home 25% Cleaner>Naphtha 60% Stabilizer>Kerosene 15% Oxygenate> Isopropyl Alcohol (common Rubbing Alcohol) Other Commercial Brands such as Chevron Techron Concentrate are 100% Cleaner. Majority is Naphtha,,,along with Stoddard Solvent,Benzene,Xylene,etc. You can Substitute Seafoam's 15% IPA for Toluene and get better results,,,most paint stores have it. ALL the Products are merely a variety of Blends of generic,,bulk commodity petrochemicals. They are simply bought by the barrel,,,,mixed together in various ratios,,,,Bottled>Labeled>Sold SeaFoam for example,, It's sells for about $8 USD for 16oz. $64 USD per gallon "Naphtha",,,2 Bottles @ $1 ea = 1/2 gallon "Kerosene" 3 Bottles@ $1 ea =3/4 gal "IPA" 2 bottles for 1$ = 1/4 gal $6 for 1.5 gals For "GENERIC ,Homemade Seafoam" versus the $64 USD per gallon for actual,,name brand Sea Foam" FYI, I haven't tried this at all. Earlier in the same thread someone said if you put too much Seafoam in your fuel tank it'll foul up the spark plugs somehow. Also,the Seafoam company does say to use two ounces per gallon if you're running it in a two-cycle engine.
See........ Foam! Tedy and Deb camping in their mini motorhouse. Sadly Tedy forgot to anchor his beer cooler down and the beer got shook up just a little.
