Running rough...code 18

Discussion in 'General Automotive Tech' started by FalconFuturaWagon, Dec 1, 2020.

  1. FalconFuturaWagon

    FalconFuturaWagon FordFan

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    I know this thread has been around forever but my problem still persists.

    As a summary (so you won't have to re-read all the posts...car began to miss/surge. I replaced the distributor...no help. Problem got worse after first shop tried to fix it. Third shop determined the timing had jumped two teeth. Replaced timing chain...no help. Alternator has been replaced, multiple sensors replaced, a new ECM was installed and removed when it did not help, etc. If you pull the red/green (or green/red, forget which) wire off the alternator the car will idle reasonable well and can be driven. According to the wiring diagram, that wire is part of the heated windshield option (window sticker says the car did not come with that option). With that wire off, the alternator is not charging the battery. With the wire hooked up, the car will barely idle and will not rev without stalling. It's at the 4th shop with an auto electrical guru who has eliminated a couple of things but has not solved the problem.

    The car ran great before it started missing. Is there anything in the electrical/ignition system that could have been damaged when the timing jumped?

    Super solid car, (was) a nice driver but I'm about out of patience with it. If it can't be fixed soon, I'll be selling it.
     
  2. Silvertwinkiehobo

    Silvertwinkiehobo "Everything that breaks starts with 'F.'"

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    Huh...my '89 CP did come with a heated windshield, and though the windshield has been replaced with a standard one, all the electronics are there. We have the '88 paper EVTM, and what I'll do is take photos of the pages that cover the system. I have a feeling a decent tech could use the info and diagrams to figure out why your alternator is affecting the EFI. Truthfully, if I had the chance, I'd do the diagnosis myself.
    I'll post the photos a bit later.
     
  3. Silvertwinkiehobo

    Silvertwinkiehobo "Everything that breaks starts with 'F.'"

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    I'm nosing through the EVTM. The light green/red wire is the alternator warning indicator ('I') lead, whether you have an internal or external regulated alt. But on the heated W/S setup, the 'I' lead is a different color, plus the stator ('S') lead is controlled through the heated W/S control module. So, I'm thinking your problem has nothing to do with anything "heated windshield." I'm now thinking it's something in the alternator warning indicator circuit.
     
  4. Silvertwinkiehobo

    Silvertwinkiehobo "Everything that breaks starts with 'F.'"

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    With internal regulator:
    IMG_20220222_204250874.jpg


    With external regulator:
    IMG_20220222_204258353.jpg

    With heated windshield (not that it may matter):
    IMG_20220222_204335086.jpg
     
  5. Silvertwinkiehobo

    Silvertwinkiehobo "Everything that breaks starts with 'F.'"

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    On the heated W/S, the light green/red comes from the heated windshield control module to the alternator warning indicator. Since you said you disconnected it from the alternator, I have to assume you have the internal reg. alternator. So, since that wire goes to the warning indicator, does the indicator light up on start-up? It is supposed to, as a bulb test.
     
  6. FalconFuturaWagon

    FalconFuturaWagon FordFan

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    Haven't had a chance to get by the car. I'll put it on my list for tomorrow and see if I can make it happen.
     
  7. Silvertwinkiehobo

    Silvertwinkiehobo "Everything that breaks starts with 'F.'"

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    Cool. I hope the regulator or alternator is the rough run problem, an easy fix. The regulator can be changed out on your alternator, so there is one thing you can do, an easy built-in test to an alternator, and that's the "full field" test. One of the regulator attaching screws is set up so that if it is grounded, the alternator field causes full charging, effectively bypassing the regulator. You'll need a wire for grounding, a DVM to read battery voltage, and a pic of the back of the regulator to show you which screw is the field ground. But it may have a factory plastic cap on it anyway.
     
  8. Silvertwinkiehobo

    Silvertwinkiehobo "Everything that breaks starts with 'F.'"

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    It should look close to this:

    IMG_20220228_160659271.jpg

    And I was incorrect, it's not a screw head, it's that disk next to the "F." Ground it to full-field the alternator. If the engine improves, replace the regulator. If not, pull the alternator and have it bench-tested.
     
  9. FalconFuturaWagon

    FalconFuturaWagon FordFan

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    Andrew...thanks for the info and help. Right now, the car is in a location that I can't access. The mechanic is overrun with work and is not responding to my inquiries. I'm going to give him a little more time to see if he can sort things out. If not, I'll bring the car home and start following your suggestions.

    BTW, the last shop replaced the alternator but I realize that, with the quality of replacement parts lately, that does not mean the new one works correctly.
     
  10. Silvertwinkiehobo

    Silvertwinkiehobo "Everything that breaks starts with 'F.'"

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    Did the original poor run condition change in any way when it was replaced?
     
  11. FalconFuturaWagon

    FalconFuturaWagon FordFan

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  12. Silvertwinkiehobo

    Silvertwinkiehobo "Everything that breaks starts with 'F.'"

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    Then it could be tied to the "I" circuit itself, on the cluster.
     
  13. FalconFuturaWagon

    FalconFuturaWagon FordFan

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    After about 3 years, the CV is now on the road and running fine. Summary of issues/work done...car started missing and got to the point it would not idle/run. Timing had jumped 2 teeth. New timing chain, alternator, distributor did not solve the issue. After 4 shops worked on it, the car would idle with the alternator disconnected. Connect the alternator and the car would stall periodically. Had the ECU rebuilt (replaced capacitor and resoldered joints) and problem persisted. Took new distributor out and replaced it with a used good distributor and it runs fine. I've put about 400 miles on it with no problems.

    After all the hassle of getting the CV to run, I've decided to sell it. I don't really have room for it and want it to go to a good home. I'll be posting it in the for sale section in a day or so.
     
  14. Silvertwinkiehobo

    Silvertwinkiehobo "Everything that breaks starts with 'F.'"

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    My wagon stopped running last year, and I dropped $75 on a cheap Chinesium dizzy after I diagnosed it had lost spark. I hadn't gone any further with it in a year, but I have a module and PIP for the old dizzy. As soon as I finish everything else on my plate, the swap out will go down. Hopefully, it isn't anything worse.
     

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