Roller Paint Job Diary

Discussion in 'Station Wagon Projects' started by Stormin' Norman, Jun 2, 2007.

  1. Stormin' Norman

    Stormin' Norman Well-Known Member

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    Oh yeah! The molasses are working perfectly! We've got 3 days of serious rain coming in from the west, flooding southern Alberta with almost 3 inches, and hail, so I'll let them sit until Sunday. The Caprice battery tray is still carrying thick rust, so I might have to sandblast that a wee bit. Its for Andy's Chevy fleet. Most of my parts are down to bare metal and even shiny.

    It's doing the frothy foam stage now, which creates an outline of the parts beneath the foam outline. Doesn't smell as bad as some said, so far. Wouldn't do it in the house though.:evilsmile::biglaugh:
     
  2. Stormin' Norman

    Stormin' Norman Well-Known Member

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    D-rip ii

    One page back (49), I raised the Rust Cures topic:
    http://www.stationwagonforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=711&page=49

    And I'm freaked out!

    Clean barely describes how nice the parts came out!

    I part molasses to 7 parts warm water. From June 12 to yesterday July 3. Crappy, cloudy and cool weather. 80 F is better, and we were under 65 F for almost 8 of those same 21 days and nights.

    Even Andy's 1994 Caprice battery tray came out clean!

    MolassesCleanup1.jpg

    MolassesCleanup2.jpg

    MolassesCleanup3.jpg

    MolassesCleanup4.jpg

    I took them out of the molasses bath, washed them in cold water, brushed on the OSPHO and let them dry in the shade (73 F) for 2 hours, then brought them inside overnight.

    Next step is etching primer and either POR 15, or Rustoleum clear (on the steering column springs and plate (new tilt column going in), or POR's engine paint, or Rustoleum black for the transmission supports.

    I washed out the container after pouring the original mixture into a longer one, for the transmission mount, the bumper supports, and my DANA 44 Axle cover. and some other bits and pieces.

    AWESOME!!

    The 10 minutes between washing the parts and putting the OSPHO on, already had new surface rust forming. The OSPHO (Brushed on), took it right off, and its gone until I paint them later this month.
     
  3. ModelT1

    ModelT1 Still Lost in the 50's

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    Lots of nice information Stormin Norman.:wave:

    Think it's possible to drain the water off that used molasses and make molasses candy and cookies? I hate waste.
     
  4. Stormin' Norman

    Stormin' Norman Well-Known Member

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    Thanks Cat.

    As for candies, we haven't found any recipes calling for iron oxide :rofl2:, but the molasses bath lasts for up to 6 months, maybe 8 months. I've got some antique tools and wood cutting drills to de-rust too.
     
  5. ModelT1

    ModelT1 Still Lost in the 50's

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    My wife takes iron pills which cost me money. I see a savings right there. I do remember grandma making molasses candy and cookies. Maybe chef Tedy can whip up a batch when you get finished derusting.
    There's been a lot talk about using molasses. Nice to know it works.
     
  6. Stormin' Norman

    Stormin' Norman Well-Known Member

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    I can't tell yet, but the Black Strap only created a bit of foam on top. This batch has about the same quantity of "Fancy Molasses) Crosby makes both. The Fancy has more sugar, so I expect more foam. Sugar doesn't help the rust removal, or hinder it. But the purer it is, the quicker.
     
  7. Stormin' Norman

    Stormin' Norman Well-Known Member

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  8. ModelT1

    ModelT1 Still Lost in the 50's

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    To really connect the headliner rant and the roller paint job threads a simple fix is to roll paint on the inside of the roof, or new headliner. Maybe bed liner to make it quiet and cool. :yahoo:
    No need to thank me!
     
  9. Stormin' Norman

    Stormin' Norman Well-Known Member

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    I won't either! :rofl2:

    When I did full resto in 2007-2009, I used sound deadener in the roof, along with new pads. Did the floor and doors too after rust-proofing. Andy's wagon is all stock, and you can tell the difference.
     
  10. ModelT1

    ModelT1 Still Lost in the 50's

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    I didn't put anything in the 55 wagon before doing the headliner, I don't think anyway. :confused:
    But my unfinished 48 Chevy panel has the silver bubble stuff and two layers of 1/2" carpet foam. No headliner yet but we can really tell the diference in the hot sun. Back in the late 80's in the wagon I used heavy roofing felt in floors and doors. I always used that in old cars. Wasn't anything else that I know of. Even factory most had just an oil cloth type cardboard.
     
  11. Stormin' Norman

    Stormin' Norman Well-Known Member

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    Yeah, I recall a 1953 Chevy sedan delivery, and my dad's 1956 New Yorker had tar paper up there. Worked too. No AC in those old beasts. The 1958 Crown Imperial had padding, with the tar paper above, and she had ice cold AC. We drove down to Fort Lauderdale in July, and back up through DC, that time. Cool as a cuke! :thumbs2:
     
  12. Stormin' Norman

    Stormin' Norman Well-Known Member

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    I'm pictureless! Since each pic is worth a thousand words, I'm almost speechless about how nice the Molasses/Ospho system works. I learned a couple things, even after reading the instructions, where the OSPHO doesn't remove paint. Can't be any rust under paint, right? Oh yeah? The rust just lies under the paint, waiting for some air. Felt like swatting flies, when all those rust spots disappeared.:D

    The headlight mounts looked like they could be restored. We have roadsalt up here, so they get sort of dubious after 36 years. I put them in the Molasses/ water mixture, and some of the rust came off. Encouraging. Hauled out the paint stripper and had to strip them 3 times. Then I put them in the molasses again. Not a speck of rust!

    Did the 1980 T-bird clutch fan clutch (Aluminum and Steel sealed component.) Like new! The I stripped the fan blade, and it really was pitted with rust. Especially on the blades, because the factory stamping process left a sharp edge. Filed off the edges, stripped it down about 5 times, back in the molasses.

    To deal with the rust pits, I used a high body primer, after the OSPHO, and two coats of high heat black paint. Like new.

    And bolts just clean up so nice. Factory clean.

    Couldn't use the camera. My gloves were covered in either paint stripper, molasses, OSPHO, Degreaser or water.

    My tranny cross member, bumper shocks and mounts all came out like new. The last time I did de-rusting, I went through 5 wire brushes, umpteen sheets of 80 grit, and more chemicals than I can recall. This is one sweet process.:thumbs2:
     
  13. Stormin' Norman

    Stormin' Norman Well-Known Member

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    I keep finding old ways to do new things.

    Most pre-70s fords with stick shifts had rubber dust covers over the clutch fork. Along comes the 70s and no more rubbers. Tin cups. The Aussies came up with a neat alternative for about $9 plus shipping, duty and taxes. It slides on the exterior end of the clutch fork, but it doesn't cover the clutch cable.

    http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/UNIVERSA...=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3cc296b48d

    The original ones get pricey with freight, etc.
    http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/Product/Search?q=clutch fork dust cover&vehicle=1979-93-Mustang

    So I'm making my own, with aluminum sheet, and some rubber tire tube as a gasket.

    Got the template made today. Will cut the metal and post pics tomorrow.

    It may never be a vintage classic, but those classic owners often have to roll their own.:wave:
     
  14. Stormin' Norman

    Stormin' Norman Well-Known Member

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    Another 2 weeks or so and she'll be on the road (I hope).

    The wife's been in Mexico since mid-September, and back in 2 weeks, so I've used to quiet time to Get 'er Done! And Done Right!

    The guy who owns South West Rod and Custom, also has 2 youtube channels. He regularly calls himself "My Friend Pete" His first name is Pete.

    http://www.swrnc.com/

    https://www.youtube.com/user/diyautoschool

    http://www.youtube.com/user/swrnc

    Well I downloaded a lot of his flics, and constantly refer to them, because you get to watch all the details of pulling dents, welding in patches, final prepping rusty metal, proper techniques to remove spotwelds, and welding them back in, so every now and then, I hear myself calling myself "My friend Norm. I chuckled at that, especially if I used a 'bad-word", in so doing. But, its a healthy thing, to refer to yourself, as your friend.

    You have to get beyond the language, with Pete's flics, and really watch what he does.

    The wife has the digital camera, but I've got the Olympus, and I took before, during and after pics which the camera shop will digitize for me, and I'll post them later this month. I followed his DIY on pulling dents, and save my crunched up A-Pillar, with only a short 5.5" X 1.5" patch from the Zephyr' s A-pillar. No major surgery. The man does show you the right way, and doesn't even advertise any products or tools.

    Here's how she looked the day of my encounter with the Harley Davidson 2010 Ford Pickup's underside passenger rear bumper, in this post:
    http://www.stationwagonforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=29281

    At first look, it looked like I might have needed to take a chunk from the roof, down to the fender support. After I used an old-school dent puller, and saw how Pete analysed his dents, and hit the right spots to attach it to the dents, I got the worst of it out and just needed a small section of the other car.

    We all say, "I'm my own worst enemy", so why not counter it with "my friend yourname". Helps if you watch his videos a few times to get the spiel down, and then you get a good chuckle hearing yourself. :rofl2:

    Luckily my wife isn't here to give me a weird look, :rofl2::rofl2:, so I use it a lot! :biglaugh::evilsmile::rofl2:

    As it stands, besides the practice time, with a new Flux-core welder, body tools, new air tools, etc. I've stripped all the paint off the exterior of the car, and the doors, hood, and tailgate. I've de-rusted and refinished all the patch panels, and cut up the Zephyr into small one-man chunks and loaded her in my utility trailer, and built a separate temporary paint booth/lean-to using thick vapor-barrier plastic, so I can paint in peace from autumn leaves and wind, and warmth. We do get down to freezing, at night.

    Having done a lot, back in 2007-2008, most of the car is clear of rust, so it will go quick.

    The header should be done in November, but the Tri-Power and cam may have to wait until Spring. The 4-speed standard is going in, though, because I had to remove the dash to repair the A-pillar. And my new upgrade, a tilt steering column, from a 1980 Zephyr.

    That's about it, until I get time to post updates.
     
    Last edited: Oct 6, 2014
  15. Stormin' Norman

    Stormin' Norman Well-Known Member

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    The confessional: Forgive me Father, its been more than 6 months since my last confession, and its Christmas Eve!

    Well, I have made a lot of progress, despite our rotten weather this summer and fall, and especially during this miserably cold, windy November and December, even as low as -30c and windchills down to -43c.

    First, I worked at the back end of the wagon:

    New brake lines, including the new flex-lines, front and rear.

    New U-joints on the drive shaft. Mexican Foxes don't have the Ford rear end's humongous rear joint, because the Mexican DANA rear end takes the garden-variety u-joints.

    I found a solid, original, rear swaybar (AKA stabilizer bar), out of Nebraska and had to make up the mounting brackets, and installed it, after derusting, using OSHPO to kill the rest, primed and painted.

    I made my own Engine Block to Bell Housing plate, very rare Unobtainium for 6 cylinder cars, and then I found one in New Hampshire. The EBAY seller left a post in one thread to contact him if anyone wanted one, for post 1966 Ford 200 CID engines, so I did, but he wasn't sure if the one he had would work, so I sent him some links to confirm. He did, and I bought it. Perfect fit.

    I had to build a bigger compressor. Mine could do it but marginally. I use it for air tools. I had to build a temporary plastic shed to work in and leave me room to work in the plastic garage.

    Thanks to my generous neighbours, I got them to lend me their summer BBQ tanks, plus mine, so I could run 2 Mr. Heater tank top heaters to work in the car garage, as best I could. The wind was torture inside that thing. The extra tank was rotated as a back up.

    Got the Zephyr all cut up and in the trailer. Kept the engine to rebuild. I'm using the head to finish up my custom headers.

    Pulled my dash, engine and tranny (automatic C4) to weld up the driver side fender core, and just finished fitting, cleaning and screwing into place to weld it in today.

    Once that's done, I'll prime and paint the engine bay, and reinstall the engine, after installing the new engine cover plate, bellhousing, clutch and pressure plate, and drop it in.

    All the engine accessories have been cleaned up and painted. I bought a new Master Cylinder, and fuel pump, from NAPA, new not a reman.

    The windshield goes back in before the engine, so I can handle it myself.

    I really lucked out finding a new, Stock muffler, exhaust pipes, and brackets via RockAuto. Even with a stock V8, the recommended pipe diameter is 2". Since mine won't be running more than 150 HP with the tri-power carbs and cam that I plan on, 2 inch exhaust is perfect.

    I also found a local distributor for the stainless steel header tubing, and for my City, another rarity was finding a metal fabricator that does Mandrel bends for the header pipes.

    I'll post pics when the weather gets colder. I can't afford to lose the next two days, to rattle can paint the engine bay.

    Enjoy the Season, one and all.
     

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