Hi guys! I'm the proud owner of my dad's 1991 Buick Roadmaster Estate Wagon and I'm happy to be part of this forum. I've never done a forum before so if I screw up all the rules please be patient. I am in search of the passenger rear window regulator. Of course the part is discontinued, but I knew you guys have all the inside scoop. Any help out there?
Welcome Leslie! Congrats on keeping the wagon in the family. Please consider introducing yourself (and hopefully posting pictures of your ride!) in the new member section. We all *LOVE* pictures. As far as the regulator, hopefully someone will chime in here as well. Also, post the request in the "Parts Wanted" section as well. Note: Looks to me like the standard Roadmaster may work as well (maybe not be wagon specific?)
Are you sure you need the entire regulator or is it just the rollers that are bad? Common problem on these cars.
Very common, but it's been about twenty years since replacing some, and IIRC, the regulators and guides (the ones I replaced were oblong sliding types) should be available from Dorman Help!
Thx for the tips! I will do that. Ill post some pics. Its in rough shape at this point... but I'm enjoying the process of getting her shaped up.
I wondered myself but they said it was the regulator. It would pop up and try to stick up thru the rubber seal. I found one in Ohio from a wrecked Roadmaster. Hopefully will be delivered soon. Sure is sad seeing a wrecked Roadmaster in a junk yard.
If you do replace the entire regulator I would replace the rollers/guides before installing it just so they are in good shape.
You can get the rollers from Rock Auto. Do NOT use the original oval sliders, or you will be doing the job over. Some of the "kits" come with a pop rivet to replace the one they tell you to remove. Use a large screwdriver, or body panel tool to pop any ball sockets from sliders. It is tight, and you may have to move the mechanism up and down to get access to them. If you bend the bottom rear of the channel down with a vice grips, you can remove the slider pieces, and insert the rollers. The roller does not go all the way back when it is at its extreme, so bending it back up is not necessary. Installing the parts may require you to put the window at different heights. I use a channel lock pliers to put the ball studs in the rollers. A little grease can make it easier, because it takes a good bit of effort to install them. To hold the window up, while working on it, you can put a couple of pieces of tape across the top of the door, and stick them to the glass on both sides. A piece of newspaper on the top of the door will keep the tape from sticking to the paint. If your windows are tinted, twist the inside tape and stick it to the outside only. If you need to remove the glass, the fronts are easy, but the rears are a RPITA. If you are replacing the whole regulator, drill out the aluminum pop rivets, and replace them with 1/4 inch bolts with nylock nuts. Put the bolt in from the back side, and the nut on the inside. 1/2 inch long bolts should be sufficient in length. The pop rivets have a pin in the middle, and you can knock it out with a small hammer (you may need a small drift, or nail) before drilling. If you choose to 1/4 inch pop rivets, it will require a special heavy duty installer. Gather the old pop rivet parts to stop rattling inside the door. If the regulator still runs in both directions, I would not replace it. A used regulator may be worse than the original one. The only time I replace mine is when they stop running. You can replace just the motor, but it is somewhat dangerous, because there is a heavy spring to counter the weight of the glass, and if not enough caution is used, it can cause the mechanism to snap abruptly, cutting various fleshy body parts, possibly even removing a finger.