65 Ford full size wagon, Tbird interior

Discussion in 'Station Wagon Projects' started by martyanderson10, Oct 22, 2014.

  1. martyanderson10

    martyanderson10 Save A Wagon

    Joined:
    Sep 1, 2014
    Messages:
    72
    Likes Received:
    11
    Trophy Points:
    35
    Location:
    TN
    I agree 100%! I lower all of my old cars (as you can tell from the sedan delivery) I haven't lowered the 65 yet but it is still a work in progress. I have a set of 78 Thunderbird spindles and disc brakes ready to install. I will probably cut about one coil out also.
    I suspect that's one of the reasons my build thread hasn't attracted a lot of interest is because it is not a bone stock restoration. I have a feeling that most of the members on here are purist.
     
  2. Badwagon

    Badwagon more wood plz

    Joined:
    Jan 8, 2015
    Messages:
    69
    Likes Received:
    4
    Trophy Points:
    20
    Location:
    Regina SK
    Keep chopping shaving and grinding!
    I'm a fan!
     
  3. n2fordmuscle

    n2fordmuscle Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 21, 2012
    Messages:
    1,594
    Likes Received:
    90
    Trophy Points:
    173
    Wagon Garage:
    1
    Location:
    Canton, GA
    Me too! Keep up the great work!!
     
  4. ModelT1

    ModelT1 Still Lost in the 50's

    Joined:
    May 18, 2011
    Messages:
    22,123
    Likes Received:
    1,414
    Trophy Points:
    808
    Wagon Garage:
    1
    Location:
    Central Illinois
    Marty build it the way you want it and tell us all about it. I'm sure there are others looking for ideas and suggestions. As for purists, just look at the cars I drive.
    When it comes to true antiques I'm all for original if it is already decent. But choppong the top on a Model A with rust and missing parts is not a problem.

    That's why I was happy my wagon was not a Nomad. I'm not sure if I could modify one of those. My wagon bucket seats are T-bird from the 80's. They matched the pleats of the custom rear wagon seat and are flat removeable panels on the back, perfect to add matching carpet.
    Even my third brake lite is F O R D Taurus.
     
  5. martyk98

    martyk98 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jan 8, 2015
    Messages:
    237
    Likes Received:
    36
    Trophy Points:
    46
    Wagon Garage:
    2
    Location:
    WA state
    Hey Marty-was your wood trim held on buy a rubber coated and threaded nut? If so, how did you get them rascals off? my 64 has them buried all over and I haven't got a tool in my shop that will grab them
     
  6. BPinsent

    BPinsent Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    May 16, 2011
    Messages:
    571
    Likes Received:
    6
    Trophy Points:
    92
    Wagon Garage:
    2
    Location:
    Ontario,Canada
    I think that it will look great when its finished, build it the way the way you want it. My Ranch Wagon was restored to original when I purchased it and I would think of changing anything on it, however if it was in need of a restoration I would be changing it up and modifying it.
    Keep up the great work.
     
  7. martyanderson10

    martyanderson10 Save A Wagon

    Joined:
    Sep 1, 2014
    Messages:
    72
    Likes Received:
    11
    Trophy Points:
    35
    Location:
    TN
    Yes it was BUT the trim was already off and missing when I bought it. The rubber pieces were still in some of the holes and I just pushed them through the hole, no problem. I will see if I can find one and study on how it may have been attached to the trim clip. I have found that once you get the first one out and understand how it connects then you can figure out how to unclip them all.
     
  8. martyanderson10

    martyanderson10 Save A Wagon

    Joined:
    Sep 1, 2014
    Messages:
    72
    Likes Received:
    11
    Trophy Points:
    35
    Location:
    TN
     
  9. martyanderson10

    martyanderson10 Save A Wagon

    Joined:
    Sep 1, 2014
    Messages:
    72
    Likes Received:
    11
    Trophy Points:
    35
    Location:
    TN
    It has been a while since an update on the wagon. I have made a lot of progress on the bodywork and paint. I got the hood painted with the graphics on the 64 Tbird hood scoop. I also finished the paint on the drivers side and I am currently wetsanding the LONG roof and it is a lot of area to sand and I will be very happy when it is done.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  10. martyk98

    martyk98 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jan 8, 2015
    Messages:
    237
    Likes Received:
    36
    Trophy Points:
    46
    Wagon Garage:
    2
    Location:
    WA state
    Marty-enlighten me as to what you use for a final "cut and rub".. Sand paper grit, type of polishing compound, and type of buffer pad. My shop did an OK job but I would like to put the final job on it, especially where it counts, hood, fenders, etc.
     
  11. martyanderson10

    martyanderson10 Save A Wagon

    Joined:
    Sep 1, 2014
    Messages:
    72
    Likes Received:
    11
    Trophy Points:
    35
    Location:
    TN
    Well it's hard to say what you would need because every situation is different. I assume you had it repainted, did the shop sand and buff it? Did they use single stage or base/clear? Does it have orange peel, rough surface, sanding scratches, swirl marks? I don't claim to be an expert but I do my own paint and buffing and it turns out pretty good. If you don't really have experience with sanding and buffing you can ruin a new paint job pretty quickly.
     
  12. martyk98

    martyk98 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jan 8, 2015
    Messages:
    237
    Likes Received:
    36
    Trophy Points:
    46
    Wagon Garage:
    2
    Location:
    WA state
    Omni base with four coats of clear. They already buffed it out but had to reshoot the hood. The surface is pretty smooth on the roof but fenders and hood definitely could use a final buff. No orange peel or swirl marks that stand out, just some areas that need to be smoother.
     
  13. martyanderson10

    martyanderson10 Save A Wagon

    Joined:
    Sep 1, 2014
    Messages:
    72
    Likes Received:
    11
    Trophy Points:
    35
    Location:
    TN
    Okay if it not smooth then they did not sand it enough before they buffed it. Have you ever cut and buffed new paint? The good news is you should have a good thick layer of clear to work with. Most paint jobs only have 2 coats of clear sometimes 3. You want to test a spot with the finest paper that will do the job. If it's not too rough you may be able to cut it smooth with 1500 wet. If 1500 is knocking the rough spots down without too much effort then sand all your areas then dry and inspect in good light for shiny spots. If you still have some then your not ready to move up yet. Once it's all smooth and a consistent amount of sheen then you can move to 2000 then 2500 then 3000 then a medium buffing compound on a foam pad, then a swirl remover and final glaze. Just make sure the compound is consistently getting lighter. IF 1500 is not cutting the rough spots down then do all of the above but START with 1000 wet. STAY OFF ANY STYLE LINES ARE SHARP EDGES WITH THE SANDPAPER YOU WILL CUT THROUGH IT PRETTY QUICK. You can quickly and lightly hit it with a buffer if you are carefull.
     
  14. n2fordmuscle

    n2fordmuscle Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 21, 2012
    Messages:
    1,594
    Likes Received:
    90
    Trophy Points:
    173
    Wagon Garage:
    1
    Location:
    Canton, GA
    Looking great! I've been wondering how this project was going. Love the hood. Can't wait to see how it looks, in conjunction with the rest of the wagon. Keep the updates coming please!
     
  15. martyanderson10

    martyanderson10 Save A Wagon

    Joined:
    Sep 1, 2014
    Messages:
    72
    Likes Received:
    11
    Trophy Points:
    35
    Location:
    TN
    Thanks, I have a way to go still but I am getting there.
     

Share This Page