1957 country sedan build

Discussion in 'Cosmetic & Restoration' started by 1930artdeco, Apr 21, 2021.

  1. Silvertwinkiehobo

    Silvertwinkiehobo "Nothing is foolproof as fools are ingenious."

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    I don't know if you can fix that, it has to be snug enough to be a press-fit to the bushing, but, perhaps a new piece of tubing could be welded on after the old one is carefully ground off and the new tube squared up and welded.
     
  2. Silvertwinkiehobo

    Silvertwinkiehobo "Nothing is foolproof as fools are ingenious."

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    The alternative would be to source another LCA from a desert junkyard.
     
  3. ModelT1

    ModelT1 Still Lost in the 50's

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    I've been a little off here lately. I enjoyed reading about all the blood, sweat, and tears. If redoing a car was easy every one would do it.

    Actually it seems like everyone does now days but they write checks and let some garage do the hard work.
    :clap:Keep up the good work of doing your own. Someday when you get old you'll appreciate the learning experience.
    Or wonder why the heck ya didn't let some other fool fix it!:slap:
     
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  4. 1930artdeco

    1930artdeco Member

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    I am looking for a place that makes rear glass for my station wagon. I remember seeing a place that sells it but I cannot find the site now. I would like to get a tinted grey version.

    Mike
     
  5. 1930artdeco

    1930artdeco Member

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    Ok, got one of the upper ball joints out. Now here is a NOS upper ball joint and the question is how do I install it? Do I take the rubber off, install, then put the rubber back on? Or do I bolt it up as is? The bottom is going to be the same thing.

    Mike
     

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  6. Silvertwinkiehobo

    Silvertwinkiehobo "Nothing is foolproof as fools are ingenious."

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    Generally, you can do either. As long as the joint is greased after reassembly, you should be good.
     
  7. 1930artdeco

    1930artdeco Member

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    Alright, going to start making up brake lines shortly. I will run the brake/fuel lines on the inside of the frame since I cannot get the clamp off that holds the original ones to the top of the frame rail. So here is my plan: Run each line down the frame in a rubber channel for abrasion/vibration protection and then use large hose clamps to attach them to the frame. Does anyone see any foreseeable issues?

    Thanks,

    Mike
     
  8. 1930artdeco

    1930artdeco Member

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    Finally an update. The front brake line is in, there are shocks are in and the rear brake line is mocked up. I know where I am growing to run the long brake line and fuel line.

    I hope to have the front suspension suspension in by the end of the month!

    mike
     
  9. wagoninsane

    wagoninsane Well-Known Member

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    Sounds as if you're making great progress! Keep at it!....Longroofs Rule!
     
  10. 1930artdeco

    1930artdeco Member

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    Well, I just put a deposit down on a complete 312 (hopefully-well it had a 4bbl carb at least) power train. I will get the rad, engine, tranny and drive shaft. Plus y’all of the PS components and a voltage regulator that looks good. Will pick it all up either this week or next. So my FE’s have to go bye bye really soon. My daughters school has an auto shop program so they may go there.

    Mike
     
  11. OldFox

    OldFox Curmudgeon

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    Good performance parts (heads, manifold, etc) from a 57 have a part # that starts with ECZ. Otherwise they are from a 292. When I sold mine, I let it go with 2 different 3 deuce manifolds, a Tbird dress up kit, an original Paxton supercharger setup and a T10 four speed. Also included was a footlocker full of Holley parts and several Stromberg carbs with rebuild kits. I regret it ever since.
     
  12. 1930artdeco

    1930artdeco Member

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    Ok, I got the rear end brake lines in and I ran the long brake line so that I can start tomorrow to do the ends, supports and protectors. Got the MC out finally and decided to buy a rebuild just because I don't trust the original until I can clean it out. But I do have one question, How does the MC plumb into the brake lines? I am missing some thing that allows it to plumb into the system up front. Pics would be great.

    Mike
     

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  13. 1930artdeco

    1930artdeco Member

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    Got back yesterday from grabbing my power train and assorted bits and bobs. I got the whole power train (looking more and more like a 312) plus, the PS components, the seat out of a 57 Ranchero, steering column out of a 59 wagon, plus the donor cars 1963 black and yellow plates!

    There is no sludge in the heads:bananaman:, the carb is a replacement from 65, the block is still full of antifreeze so hopefully clean. I am going to play the hopeful/optimistic card and assume the engine-after a good cleaning and regasketing-still has life in it. And I am going hope the tranny is still in good shape as well.

    The guy I was dealing with gave me permission to post his contact info as I remember seeing a 72 wagon, 59 wagon, and a 63? wagon there as well. His name is Logan and he is located in Cloverdale, CA, #is 707-540-5208.

    Mike

    sorry I cannot get them to load right side up.
     

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  14. OrthmannJ

    OrthmannJ Always looking for old ford crew cabs

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    Here ya go:
    57 wagon mill.PNG 57 wagon mill. 2.PNG 57 wagon mill. 3.PNG
     
  15. 1930artdeco

    1930artdeco Member

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    Well according to the crank shaft, I have a 312! I will verify it when I am able to pull the pan and look at the caps.


    Ok, This week I am planning to get the arms all ready to reinstall in the car. That means new bushings. I get the bottoms but what is the order for the top arms. I think it is install the cross shaft and place both bushing in the holes. But how do you press them in with the shaft installed?

    Mike
     

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