1957 country sedan build

Discussion in 'Cosmetic & Restoration' started by 1930artdeco, Apr 21, 2021.

  1. 1930artdeco

    1930artdeco Member

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    Well, I got her up on stands and tore into her to see what I was up against. She is going to fight me the whole way! Both floor pans up front-toast, rears have bullet holes but will get fiberglassed for now. A dog leg and RR are shot.

    Working the front suspension and steering first so I can get her back on her wheels and mobile. The tank may be toast with all of the shellac and varnish. But, I am going to try and clean that all out and save it.

    will need to rebuilt the front seat, but it has the original upholstery on the seat back! The rear seat is in good shape though.

    did find out she came with some good options. Power steering, aftermarket AC and a T&C radio. I have a 390 that I can drop in her but would prefer the original Y block and tranny. She isn’t a race car just a cruiser and vacation car.

    I will post updates if people are interested with pics.

    mike
     
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  2. wagoninsane

    wagoninsane Well-Known Member

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    Mike We Need Pictures! Are you going to try and bring her back to stock or do a restomod? Anyway keep plugging away and get some pictures.....Longroofs Rule! PS. Good Luck!
     
  3. Silvertwinkiehobo

    Silvertwinkiehobo "Nothing is foolproof as fools are ingenious."

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    And don't forget, wagon and Ranchero were the same, using common body and frame construction, so that you have a wider pool to select from, as well as Edsel and Merc wagons for pieces.
     
  4. 1930artdeco

    1930artdeco Member

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    Right now she will be just brought back to get her safely on the road. Then while I restore my Model A I will driver her around to club functions. When I retire she will get a frame off back to stock maybe with a few period mods, like AC going back in and power disk brakes but that is pretty much it. She will be a cruiser and hit the road for road trips kind of girl from now on. She is giving me the chance to learn new skills-like welding and metal work and painting. Which means of course more tools!!!

    I added her to the garage portion here but the majority of the pics will go here. I cannot figure out what the PO did to try and kill her. But I think what happened is that they melted a bearing, ended up having to be towed and then just let her sit and stripped her of parts. So now I get to put her back together. Right now this is where I am: trying to go NOS on as much front suspension and steering items as possible, cleaning and devarnishing her tank and new brakes (everything). Then roll her out and hose her out on a nice hot day. There is still about a pound sand and dirt in her-everywhere.

    After that, I will move onto sheet metal as that is going to take a long time to replace. Then engine/wiring and lastly the interior. That is the goal-and we all know what happens to goals and plans....



    Mike
     

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  5. 1930artdeco

    1930artdeco Member

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    Today's update-not much. I dropped the outer tie rods as I could not get a decent whack at the inners. So I am going to take the whole thing down and separate them out of the car. I have decided to just replace the left spindle at this point as that bearing race and washer are frozen to it. Tried to get the shocks out and the stud started to just spin so I will just cut the nut off of both of them and then remove them. Got in some front hubs and drums from a yard, I am hopeful they can be turned. If not then it is off to China for new ones.

    I poured a gallon of lacquer thinner in the tank as an experiment. But I think I will just buy a new one as the shellac and/or rust go all of the way up the sides. Hey it's only money right? On the springs, do I need a compressor to remove them if I break both ball joints loos and then lower the lower arm on a jack? Will that take all of the energy out of it? How do I get the PS control valve out? I pulled the pin and loosened the nut and was hitting it up, but the valve won't budge.

    Thanks,

    Mike
     
  6. wagoninsane

    wagoninsane Well-Known Member

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    KEEP PLUGGING AWAY!.....Longroofs Rule!
     
  7. OldFox

    OldFox Curmudgeon

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    In our shop, we used to put a deep well socket on a long extension and work the nut back and forth until it broke. Saved all that black smoke from the torch when the rubber caught on fire.
     
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  8. 1930artdeco

    1930artdeco Member

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    Sorry, I wasn't clear on the shock part. The upper part of the shock spun and I cant stop it. So I will bring over my Dremel and just cut the nut off. Got some 'new' drums and hubs that are serviceable but just need to be turned. So shocks are up next, then springs and finally control arm bushings.

    Mike
     
  9. OldFox

    OldFox Curmudgeon

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    You're not clear on my method. As you work it back and forth, you will break the shock rod off below the nut. You aren't trying to unscrew it.
     
  10. 60Courior

    60Courior New Member

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    Judging by the looks of that front floor I would crawl under the dash and have a look at the cowl vent drains at each upper corner. They are rubber pieces that deteriorate over time and instead of draining the water from the cowl area to outside of the car all the water drains into the front floor. Common problem on 57 Fords.
     
  11. 1930artdeco

    1930artdeco Member

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    Oldfox, now I understand what you are saying.

    60courier, oh they are gone and I will replace them. A guy on the 57 forum told me how he fixed the issue without taking the fenders off. So I will use his method.

    mike
     
  12. 1930artdeco

    1930artdeco Member

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    Well I got a few things done today and got stymied by a few things. First off, I got the shocks and sway bar out. I poured about a 1/4 cup of red tranny fluid out of the PS pump reservoir so I am hoping that means the internals will all be good still.

    The bad, how the bloody hell do you get the PS valve off? It is only held on by the pitman arm but I can't seem to get her to budge, short of a BFH and I can't get a decent whack at the ball stud. I am also trying to get the idler arm bracket off the frame. I got the two bolts off but the last bolt that goes through the frame got torqed on by someone, so hard it mashed in the frame under the bolt head :icon_scratch:.

    Next up is get the springs out in two weeks and then lube the snot out of the upper and lower A arm bushings.

    Mike
     
  13. 1930artdeco

    1930artdeco Member

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    Well, tomorrow is spring removal day along with the arms and steering. Shocks are on the way and I will get new springs at the end of the month. Next month it is bushings and then things start going back together-I hope.

    Mike
     
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  14. 1930artdeco

    1930artdeco Member

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    Boy she is going to ight me the whole way to full restoration. Well, part of it was my fault, I had to figure out how to use a spring compressor correctly-I did eventually. But in the process, I hit the lower castle nut hoping to pop the ball joint loose-nope not gonna happen. So when I did pop it loose with a fork, I was backing the nut off, and now the stud just spins with the nut. Fortunately, I have an air powered cut tool for the nut/stud:D. So I will attack her springs and the rest on Thursday and this weekend.

    Mike
     
  15. Silvertwinkiehobo

    Silvertwinkiehobo "Nothing is foolproof as fools are ingenious."

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    Use a jack to lift the lower arm back into position enough to get the nut off, then slowly lower it. When you want to bust the stud loose, don't hit the castle nut--turn the steering to full lock, then hit the knuckle, where the stud goes through. The hit shocks the tapered hole, and the stud eventually 'lets go.'
     

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