Premium gas in old cars?

Think of all the people who were talked in to having their heads (on the car ) rebuilt because of this misundertanding. We just kept driving our cars figuring when it became an issue we'd then rebuild the heads. It never happened. Eventually the engine wore out of natural abuse and when rebuilt ended up with better heads that already had the seats done. But I've yet to hear of someone who actually had a real problem with the seats going away due to use of non-leaded fuel in a vintage car.

Saf57

 

Saf. I remember back when we were building stuff everyone was talking about and worrying about this problem. We built some high HP stuff and ran the snot out of them and never saw a problem. People should take note of one important issue....when the G tells you something....you can pretty much ignore it. I won't get into the reasons they tell us false stuff. You all can probably pretty much figure that out without my help.

 

I remember the unleaded gas/valve seat scare quite well. Later read that under normal conditions, there was nothing to worry about. Seems like most of the problems happened when engines were worked extra hard like in towing applications.

As far as the "G" goes, there is a lot going on we never find out about. Remember the 55 mph limit for years? Big Bro knew it would last a long while. Remember most all speedometers had the 55 in larger numbers or in red or in some way stood out? This was the case for a long time. Had it just been to conserve fuel in the short run, they would not have done this.

 

Here's a thought. Can you imagine what it would have been like with the unleaded switch if there had been access like today to the internet?

There'd of been all kinds of scary emails about the switch either way like we get today about microwaves, as an example, or using toe nail clippers that are right handed on left footed toes.

Those pro for the change would have been creating all kinds of emails that you have to send to 5,700 of your most favorite email buddies in the next 14 seconds or your valves would seize. Those against it would have come up with all the reasons you'd catch cancer or optical rectosis because the lead was gone, and their email would have said you also have to include the person who sent it to you when you pass it on so they could see that you really cared.

Then, of course, we'd be inundated with Govt studies various people made up and put an official look to their hoax emails.

And out there somewhere, in a seldom found thread, would be this little tiny voice of regular station wagon owners saying "hey, it really doesn't matter to us long roof owners because we will just drive them as they are and enjoy them like crazy".

Now that you've read this your steering wheel will seize up, your brakes will leak dry, and that Big Gulp you had an hour ago will cause you to need a rest area in AZ if you don't forward this thread to at least 46,217 of your favorite Face Book "friends" in the next 2.4 seconds, and include the author of this post.

Thank you, thank you, thank you very much, thank you....

Saf57

 

Soft valve seats will recede over time. Lash adjustments must be made to compensate for this effect.

 

i'd run Orange juice if it had some octane..
whatever is the cheapest goes in my buckets...

 

This thread has been very informative; and entertaining! Thank you Tsynek for posting the question! I've often wondered the same thing.
Tsynek and I have virtually the same car. I usually burn 87 octane in mine and I drive it gently; I have had very little performance issues.

I will say however that "once in a blue moon" my engine will diesel for about a milli-second when I turn off the engine. I think the common denominator in each case was that my tank was near empty. More frequently, my car will hesitate just after warming up when I step on the accelerator; almost acting like it wants to stall, but doesn't.

Could this be related to my grade of fuel I use?

 

thats usually a combo plate of 'timing and fuel'...higher octane needs a different timing set up to really be proficient...and versavisa

 

So Rev, you're saying I should perhaps have my timing checked?

 

Glide-Aways, I got a craftsman timing gun for around $50 from Sears. Get a distributer cap wrench at auto store and loosen the bolt. You place a clip on the front right wire, put the other clip on a solid piece of metal (ground). Aim it at the pulley in front of the engine with the numbers on it. Then you turn the distributer cap until the timing light shows the arrow to line up with right setting (ussually on a sticker in the engine bay). tighten it, and your timed! If you buy the stuff at a auto parts place they will probably guide you through it in the parking lot. Now every time my car runs rough I spray out the carb, check some other obvious stuff (eg lots of gas in tank), then I time it. 9/10 times it needed it. One thing I do wonder is if I get an"HEI" electric distributor, will that lower my timing adjustment frequency?

 

As I mentioned before about the auto makers looking into the future, Chrysler had hardened valve seats in '72. I had a "72 Polara wagon and the owners manual said it would run fine on unleaded fuel. Not sure if they had them before '72.

 

yup...but remember to compensate for slop in the timing chain