New heads!

Discussion in 'General Automotive Tech' started by 12ozMouseBoner, May 19, 2018.

  1. 12ozMouseBoner

    12ozMouseBoner Well-Known Member

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    Hey dudes,

    I just picked up a set of 351 D00E-c 17 heads. I've never heard of these heads before, so I'm wondering if anyone can let me know if these heads are good for building, or for scrapping.
     
  2. 12ozMouseBoner

    12ozMouseBoner Well-Known Member

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    I've decoded the main info, made in 1970, they were drilled on either Fairlanes or Torinos. Eh, I'll keep it and get it polished and a better valve train system for it.
     
  3. Silvertwinkiehobo

    Silvertwinkiehobo "Everything that breaks starts with 'F.'"

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    Can you take a pic of the combustion chambers? Are these Cleveland heads?
     
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  4. 12ozMouseBoner

    12ozMouseBoner Well-Known Member

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    They might be, I couldn't get a 100% precise measurements of the valves and sparkplug chamber. However the intake (I think) was just above 2". So it's a very good possibility that they are Cleveland heads. I'll post pics as soon as I get home.

    Right now I'm trying to figure out a decent setup for low-end torque and some mid-range play
     
  5. 12ozMouseBoner

    12ozMouseBoner Well-Known Member

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    Only problems is that these were Mariner heads, the valve springs limit the rpm to 4500 and there's like some ceramic looking build up in the coolant passages..
     
  6. Poison_Ivy

    Poison_Ivy Dogzilla Fan

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    I'd just install normal valve springs. The c in that ID number you gave us should stand for Cleveland. That would be pricky, if Ford were to issue that designation on a Windsor. That ceramic deposit is ordinary calcium left there from hard tap water use. There are salts you can get which will dissolve all of that. Beware, though. Those calcium deposits make a great biological form of Bar's Leaks. Once the calcium is dissolved, don't be surprised if a rotten radiator or heater core comes out of the closet. Oops! I should be careful with abusing such descriptions, nowadays [​IMG] Afterwards, I'd use a combination of distilled water and glycol
     
  7. 12ozMouseBoner

    12ozMouseBoner Well-Known Member

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    Here's what I have so far
     

    Attached Files:

  8. 12ozMouseBoner

    12ozMouseBoner Well-Known Member

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    Could muratic acid work? I've seen it melt calcium and other minerals, but I don't know how it's chemistry is with iron
     
  9. 12ozMouseBoner

    12ozMouseBoner Well-Known Member

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    IMG_20180520_164729102.jpg IMG_20180520_164747207.jpg IMG_20180520_164718467.jpg IMG_20180520_164712554.jpg IMG_20180520_164706761.jpg IMG_20180520_164509811.jpg IMG_20180520_164503762.jpg IMG_20180520_164458618.jpg Just got back from driver improvement class LOL, took pics of the heads. Got most of the stamps and underbelly.
     
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  10. 12ozMouseBoner

    12ozMouseBoner Well-Known Member

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    At the moment I'm soaking the rust spots in old oil, and seeing if wd40 can help clean the coolant passages
     
  11. Vista

    Vista Well-Known Member

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    I don't think those are Cleveland heads. Clevelands have canted valves. Those look like Windsor heads.
     
  12. OldFox

    OldFox Curmudgeon

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    Agreed, and the intake ports are too wimpy for a Cleveland.
     
  13. 12ozMouseBoner

    12ozMouseBoner Well-Known Member

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    Aw what :-(
     
  14. joe_padavano

    joe_padavano Well-Known Member

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    This is what Cleveland heads look like. The OP's heads are not Cleveland.

    [​IMG]
     
  15. 12ozMouseBoner

    12ozMouseBoner Well-Known Member

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