You have peaked my interest, Dan. How fast are these wagons? Ever pulled an ET slip? I saw the Volvo on youtube that had an LT or LS in it...THAT is fast. I like the interiors on those wagons but never knew they were quick....???
They are VERY QUICK and handle real well. A bit pricy, though. The 2006 I test-drove (about 17k on the odo) was going for around $26,000.
1/4 mile times in the mid 14's for stock. But their quickness really shows up at 30-40mph and above. It can beat a lot of 13 second cars starting from a roll. Not that I'd know of course. The hard part is getting a 13 second car to even notice a 30-something driving a station wagon. Of course, why would one try?
LOL...how about a white haired old man?? Well...that's pretty quick. Is that with a turbo? Automatic? I know nothing about Volvo's. How do they hold up mechanically? I know the engines are supposed to go a long time, but I did know a girl that had troubles with her old Volvo. How about the tranny...is it tough? Do they ride like a big wagon or more like a euro sport model?
2.3L inline 5 cyl turbo on mine. Mechanically they hold up really well if maintained correctly and if you know the usual trouble spots to watch for. Tranny's too. 200k miles is generally an easy thing to accomplish on original engine and tranny. The newer they are the more complicated they are though. And trouble with Euro cars = $$$. Don't know that I'd necessarily own one newer than an '00. Say if you have a broken power window switch, you can't just swap it with a used one on the newer cars. You actually have to take it to the dealer and have them also program it to the computer. Handling wise, it's more Euro. Not in the league of BMW, but good.
Thanks for that, Dan. I have always liked those wagons. Especially the inside. I don't like trying to learn a whole new car at my age and some of those Euro's, as you say, can nickel and dime you to death with necessary trips to the dealer. And....I HATE going to a dealer for ANYTHING mechnically related! EVER. That part of your candor has probably veered me away from the Volvo. Still...they have an attraction for me.
Me too. I like to work on my own stuff. I don't like anyone working on my car besides me. Seems to be the way it goes with any of the newer cars. Everything is controlled through the computer.
Yes. Up to 2000 is pretty workable and it's the older boxier style which I like. They pretty much stayed the same from late 95 through 00. In 99 they went to a different engine management, variable valve timing, and "fly by wire" instead of a mechanical throttle body, but other than that pretty much the same. Up to 98 is very DIY workable and many argue the '98 is the best year for this platform because you get a slightly updated exterior, better interior, and nearly the exact same mechanics as the earlier 850 models, which are pretty rock solid.
OK...if I was looking at a ... let's say a 98 wagon ... what should I be looking for in terms of a model, rust problems and mechanical problems? I do like the front end of yours...can't say I like those huge light poles they use for tail lights on some models though. I think I would have to think about a redesign there.
Model depends on what you are looking for. Here's a quick rundown. V70R = High output motor. Great interior. Comes loaded (I think the only option was the Dolby surround audio). Auto only. AWD system that requires matched tires and regular tire rotations. If you see one for sale with mismatched tires, probably walk away. The AWD system is REALLY great for these upper midwest winters, but picky and expensive to fix. If mine goes, then I'm probably going to just disconnect the rear drive shaft and be done with it. V70 T5 = same power as the R, but FWD. Less complicated than the AWD. Auto or 5spd, though the 5sp is hard to find. V70 GLT = low pressure turbo, 2.4L I5. FWD. Decent power still but you aren't going to win a lot of races. (190hp I think) V70 AWD = engine of the GLT and the AWD system (and problems) of the R. V70 XC = same as above, just slightly more ground clearance. V70 = no turbo, pretty ho-hum, but still reliable. Generally there aren't really any rust issues on the 98's. Not sure when they started using all the galvanized body parts, but they really hold up well. Nuts and bolts around the suspension will get rusty, making it hard to work on, but you are probably used to that where you live. It's pretty much the typical stuff. Regular oil changes especially on the turbo models, listen for clunks in the suspension (tie rods, ball joints, strut mounts), transmission should shift smooth and not jerk or slip, the AWD stuff I mentioned, leaks, etc. AT fluid should be nice and red, not brown and smell burnt. They do well with a good flush every now and then. Timing belts need to be done around every 70k miles. TB tensioner should be done too, although I think on some they say they can go to 140k. So look for those records because if the TB goes, the engine is pretty much done. ABS modules are a typical issue. Dealer wants some crazy amount, but you can get them rebuilt online for a lot less. I actually "rebuilt" mine myself by taking it apart and resoldering a few connections for really no cost to me. PCV system is a typical maintenance thing. If there is sludge built up it can be a problem. Window switches can get corroded and stop working. I've taken mine apart and cleaned with good success. That's about all I can think of. All that stuff above though can be DIY. Oh... and if you look at the 99 and 00, there are pretty much the same EXCEPT the Electronic Throttle Module that replaced the mechanical throttle body of the 98's and before ARE an issue and will go out at some point. There is a flaw in that design and to really fix it, you are looking right now at a $700 replacement part from a company called xemodex which offers rebuilds with a better than factory design and lifetime warranty. But I expect that price will be going down once others start catching on and competing. I can tell on my car that at some point mine was replaced, so I'm hoping it will last a while.
A big OOPS! I thought these wagons were rear wheel drive! Pretty stupid of me, I guess. It never occurred to me that they might be FWD. And it IS an interference engine...no biggie. But, I don't like FWD if I want a fast performer. I feel bad, now, that I put you through all this typing of info. I thank you for it and now I do have a fix on these wagons that I never had before. Thanks a lot for your patience and info, Dan. I apologize for not having done my home work before all my questions.
