Have run Evans Waterless coolant for over 4 years and wanted to share my experience with you. A friend was putting it into his round track car and in his diesel truck. I bit the bullet and changed over too. The system must be flushed of the old fluid and they sell a kit for this. Also time to replace all hoses and lines, clamps etc to insure no leaks. I was also changing my thermostat/housing, radiator, fan and water pump. Evans Waterless is a permanent solution that eliminates corrosion issues and can be used/reused forever. This week I changed out my intake manifold and had to drain the system so into a bucket it went. THERE WAS ZERO CORROSION..NADA AND ALL SURFACES WERE PRISTINE!! REPLACED my intake and a new Demon 1904 carb, re installed the hoses etc. Ran the coolant through a paint strainer, poured it in and fired her up. Would recommend EVANS WATERLESS COOLANT to all of you out there in Station Wagon land. One less headache in an ever complicated world. Look on Jay Lenos Garage to see a video of his experience with this stuff or their website for their newest line of waterless coolant. PS: "Some days it's not worth the effort to chew through the restraints" Tho I try to enlighten my fellow gear heads and give them a heads up, most go the path that speaks to them..no harm...no foul....just life.
Did you test your coolant with the "refractomiter" ? ..... It's in the J-Leno video It does sound very interesting but as mentioned in the video, says it has a 3% water tolerance. For the best of the best backyard guys flushing and drying any older in car running engine to 3% is gona be purity hard if not next to impossible. I also noticed at 6:32 in the video Leno asked a question that the guy almost hesitated to answer, but then answered it like a politician (answered, but no real answer, didn't really answer Leno's question, but made the answer sound good) http://www.evanscooling.com/ I will say though I am very interested and if it's working for you, AWSESOME! ( BTW, do you work for them????, have to ask) Myself, if I was building "new" I would seriously consider this after more home work but based on the 3% water tolerance I don't think I'd spend $30+ a gallon for a older miles on engine.
Sounds great, but I have very low confidence of getting an "installed" engine flushed clean and dry enough for this. OTOH, starting out a fresh new build with it sounds good.
NO I DO NOT WORK FOR THEM...but just was blown away when I took the cooling system apart and found it was so clean. The 3% stuff ..not sure but I used their cleaning solution..(FLUSHED IT WITH WATER TO REMOVE THE SOLUTION THE FIRST TIME...HEY I'M ITALIAN...IT TAKES ME A WHILE) then reflushed the system with cleaning solution. Hooked all the hoses etc. and circulated the cleaning solution, then drained it and put in the Evans. It has been over 4 years with this stuff and I have an aluminum radiator, intake and see no evidence of crud in the system. I am going to change our Ridgeline and Mini Cooper over in the spring. This is like synthetic oil, K & N filters etc. and just wanted to share MY experience with this stuff. Guess I should have taken some pictures, maybe in the spring I will drain and re-install my thermostat housing and hoses and take some pictures for the site.
DITTO!! There is only one way to flush an engine in the car. Install a flush tee in the heater hose that goes into the intake manifold. Remove the thermostat and reinstall the housing. There are plugs on either side of the engine block just above the oil pan. Remove them and poke out the crud with a Phillips screwdriver. Your block will drain completely. Open the petcock on your radiator and let it drain. Hook up a garden hose to the flush tee. It will take an adapter that you can make from hardware store parts for hose repair. Turn on the hose until water flows freely from all open ports. Then start the engine and let it run. Readjust the water flow to maintain steady streams of water from all open ports again. Let it fast idle for 15 or more minutes. Close everything up and reinstall removed components. In place of the pipe plugs, install brass petcocks for future use. Be sure to blow out the heater core to remove remaining water and crud in it. In extreme cases of heavy rust or corrosion, knock out the most accessible freeze plug on either side. Make yourself a wand from a hose bib with 2 feet of copper tubing soldered into the end. This will allow you to get water pressure into the water jackets surrounding the cylinders. This is where all the crud in your cooling system settles and is the cause of many overheating problems.
