1988 Oldsmobile Custom Cruiser

I'll check it out, Thanks!!

 

My '89 Cruiser had a bad O2 sensor that tripped the light. I replaced it, was about $30, and that fixed it, and my mileage also improved. The faulty sensor was making the car run too rich.

It's the little things.

 

So, because you got lucky you assume everyone else will also be so. In 99% of failures, an O2 sensor code (either rich or lean) is usually set with most component failures. One had to be knowledgeable enough to be able to sort thru the codes and determine which ones are the problem and which are ancillary to the problem.

Or, if you are a driveway mechanic, you just replace all indicated components and then try to return them as defective because they didn't solve your problem.

 

Best advice is to find someone that can scan an OBD I system and see what it tells you. And of course, fix the exhaust leak first...you know that IS an issue. Before you guess, fix what you know is wrong.

Oh and Oldsfox, I've had an '86 Buick Electra, '89 Olds Custom Cruier, and '88 Cutlass Supreme, all with Olds 307's, and all needed O2 sensors replaced to cure Check Engine light issues. Now one needed a cat converter too, but the O2 was a LOT cheaper, so best to try that first if you are going through a process of elimination.

Autozone here will no longer scan OBD I systems, they are all OBD II, but most older shops still have scan tools that do both.

Good luck on your project!

-Mike

 

is there a list of code definitions?

 

DTC - 12 No distributor reference pulse (diagnostic test active)
DTC - 13 Oxygen sensor circuit open or no activity
DTC - 13 Left bank O2 sensor circuit open or no activity
DTC - 14 Engine coolant temp sensor error (high temp indicated)
DTC - 15 Engine coolant temp sensor error (low temp indicated)
DTC - 16 System voltage too low
DTC - 17 Camshaft position sensor error
DTC - 21 Throttle Position sensor error (signal high)
DTC - 22 Throttle position sensor error (signal low)
DTC - 23 Intake air temp sensor error (low temp indicated)
DTC - 24 Vehicle speed sensor error (open circuit or no activity)
DTC - 25 Intake air temp sensor error (high temp indicated)
DTC - 26 Quad Driver Module (QDM A) error
DTC - 28 Auto transmission range pressure switch error
DTC - 31 Wastegate solenoid circuit error
DTC - 31 Gear Position Switch (PRNDL) error
DTC - 32 EGR system failure
DTC - 33 MAP sensor circuit error (signal high indicating low vacuum)
DTC - 34 MAP sensor circuit error (signal low indicating high vacuum)
DTC - 35 IAC problem or idle error
DTC - 36 MAF sensor error
DTC - 36 24x Crankshaft position sensor circuit error
DTC - 36 4T60-E Shifting Error
DTC - 37 TCC brake switch circuit error
DTC - 38 TCC brake switch circuit error
DTC - 39 Clutch switch circuit error
DTC - 39 TCC error
DTC - 41 Ignition control error
DTC - 41 MEM-CAL error
DTC - 41 C³I Cam Sensor Signal error
DTC - 42 Ignition bypass circuit error
DTC - 43 Knock sensor error
DTC - 44 Oxygen sensor error (lean condition indicated)
DTC - 44 Left bank O2 sensor error (lean condition indicated)
DTC - 45 Oxygen sensor error (rich condition indicated)
DTC - 45 Left bank O2 sensor error (rich condition indicated)
DTC - 46 Pass-Key II (VATS) system error - circuit out of freq range
DTC - 47 UART (serial data) circuit error
DTC - 51 PROM error
DTC - 51 Incorrect MEM-CAL
DTC - 52 Fuel cal-pak incorrect or missing
DTC - 53 System voltage too high
DTC - 53 Digital EGR Valve solenoid 1 error
DTC - 54 Fuel pump circuit low voltage
DTC - 54 Digital EGR Valve solenoid 2 error
DTC - 55 ECM error
DTC - 55 Digital EGR Valve solenoid 3 error
DTC - 56 Quad Driver Module (QDM B) error
DTC - 57 Boost Control error
DTC - 58 Trans fluid temp sensor circuit error (low voltage)
DTC - 58 VATS system error
DTC - 59 Trans fluid temp sensor circuit error (high voltage)
DTC - 61 A/C system performance
DTC - 63 Right bank O2 sensor circuit error
DTC - 63 MAP sensor circuit signal voltage high (low vacuum indicated)
DTC - 64 Right bank O2 sensor lean exhaust indicated
DTC - 64 MAP sensor circuit signal voltage low (high vacuum indicated)
DTC - 65 Right bank O2 sensor rich exhaust indicated
DTC - 66 A/C pressure sensor circuit error (low pressure indicated)
DTC - 67 A/C pressure sensor circuit error
DTC - 68 A/C clutch relay circuit error (shorted to ground)
DTC - 69 A/C clutch relay circuit error (open circuit indicated)
DTC - 69 A/C high pressure switch error
DTC - 70 A/C pressure sensor circuit error (high pressure indicated)
DTC - 71 A/C evaporator temp sensor circuit error (low temp indicated)
DTC - 72 VSS signal circuit error
DTC - 73 A/C evaporator temp sensor circuit error (high temp indicated)
DTC - 75 Digital EGR solenoid #1 circuit error
DTC - 76 Digital EGR solenoid #2 circuit error
DTC - 77 Digital EGR solenoid #3 circuit error
DTC - 79 Transmission fluid overtemp
DTC - 80 Transmission component slipping
DTC - 82 3x Crankshaft position sensor circuit error
DTC - 85 PROM error
DTC - 86 A/D error
DTC - 87 EEPROM error (flash memory error)
DTC - 90 TCC error
DTC - 93 Transmission pressure control solenoid circuit error
DTC - 96 Transmission system voltage low
DTC - 98 Invalid PCM program
DTC - 99 Invalid PCM program

 

Forgot but you can scan the codes on OBD I cars yourself with a paper clip! The old tricks are the best tricks!

Here you go.

http://www.troublecodes.net/gm/

 

Thanks for the list and that neat trick!!!

 

A paper clip IS a jumper wire. :banghead3:

Also, you need to look at the vin code on your car and find which set of codes apply to your specific engine, as there is a specific diagnostic tree for each. Not all systems have the same components.

I think you can login to Autozone.com and register with them. They have online service manuals which you can access which will probably help you.

Likewise, you should record the codes now in memory. Then clear them and drive the car again until it resets the codes again. Some may have already been there and some may be intermittent codes which do not apply. See which codes are reset and then proceed from there.

A quick non-specific example: A car sets an O2 sensor rich code. You replace the O2 sensor but the problem still exists. You discover that the electric choke element has burned out and your choke plate is not opening, making the car run rich. You replace the choke element, but it doesn't cure the problem. Then you discover the bad choke has caused your plugs to be carbon fouled. Now you change your plugs, but in the meantime the bad ones have caused your new O2 sensor to be coated with carbon and it isn't working properly.

This is why there are specific diagnostic procedures when trying to discover problems. Things need to be done in specific order, not haphazardly. When people post on forums, it is always about them and what they did. That doesn't mean it has anything to do with your particular problem. Experienced mechanics see more problems in a month than most driveway mechanics will see in a lifetime. They have anecdotal knowledge which may be of no value to you whatsoever.

 

Did not see this until today, but welcome to the forums! Another Oldsmabubble! Also, you got a STEAL on that car, personally? Save up and ditch the 307, it's a good motor, but it's not very powerful, and the '88 has roller lifters which will likely pass onto the parking lot in the sky somewhere around 100-130k miles. They did that post '86, my car lasted 120k originally on it's engine, then another 120k, at which point my car had the car for a while, and he replaced the 307 with a non-rollerized version from 1985, fully rebuilt with an "RV" cam. Sweet build, but still gutless, though the smog pump, EGR, and vacuum hell emission systems are gone, so it has a bit more pep.

Anyway, have fun with the tank man, I wish mine was that nice! Though I got mine for free from my father

 

Anyone mind posting a pic of those manifold bolts that should be tightened, i wanna give that a try. you cant beat free

 

Constructive criticism, OK

I'm guessing your talking about your exhaust, rite? If you don't know what bolts and we are talking exhaust..... some times it worth spending a dollar and bring it to a shop Those bolts have been heat welded in place for years of driving and the chances of snapping one is greater than not and then your really screwed. There is a good chance a bolt may be broken to begin with and a exhaust shop will have all the proper tools and install all you need new.... while you could still be under the car all...

 

Theses should be the list of the code that are relevant to your '87 OCC vin Y.
http://www.troublecodes.net/GM/87-90_50Y/

Try the paper clip trick and see what you get, might be something easy, and you will learn something. Connect terminals A & B with the clip, and count the check engine flashes, with the key "on" and engine off. code 12 will flash 3 times first, then any current trouble codes will flash 3 times also.

Check out this video, shows the paper clip diagnosis exactly.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V8nZpQyoRh4

Good luck and start learning how to work on your own stuff.

Mike

 

Thanks for the warning

It was more of just for reference though, I usually do basic maintence on my cars myself(oil and such) so i know my a little bit. If the bolts look bad I plan on bringing it to a exhaust shop.

Also thanks for the additional code info 200OZ