Mopar 440 Engine, how big can I go?

As we all know, there is no replacement for displacement. My 440 will eventually need a rebuild of some sort. I was thinking of going bigger..just because I can . I know that for 72, this was the last year of the thick walled cylinders... so I know I have tons of room to bore if needed. I am told this motor can go up to 520+ cubes and still be incredibly strong... is this true? How do I do that... stroke? bore? a combo of both?

Mopar guys... what say you?

 

You might be able to get what you want out of a crate engine like these.

http://www.bouchillonperformance.com/MPCrateEngines.asp

 

Bore and Stroke both, but plan on a billet crankshaft ($1,000 more or less). If I went that far, I'd go needle bearings (roller Bearings) to get that puppy to rev like a small block! Much more responsive, and stronger bottom end. IMHO.

Ask around the Mopar racers to take you for a ride in Roller Bearing machine. Just bring diapers!

 

Norm, Norm, Norm. You are one to talk. What do you have. Maybe 85-88 horsepower?

I say stick with with the original. It will be much more reliable and easier to tune. If you do go with a bigger bore and stroke it make sure you get to a good dyno tuner to get it right. There's nothing better than knowing that everything is working together and the carb is set up just right for the proper mixture. My friend bored and stroked his Ford 302 to 347 and going to the dyno did the trick for him. He started with 230 hp and running too lean at 4,000 and up rpm after the dyno tune he got 330 hp at the rear wheels at 4900 rpm.:2_thumbs_up_-_anima

 

I like my sturdy turtle. But I've done a few Mopar engines in my crazy youth. Still shiver when I think of the time I took my dad's fueller over 200 MPH. Hemi-powered of course.

Speaking of speed, I just renewed my insurance and got the full 25% discount. $522 per year. $1,000,000 3rd party, $200,000 public liability, $200 deductible. They offered me replacement transportation, but with our bus service, no way.

No tickets, no accidents EVER. You only get tickets if you get caught, right? Well unless you're driving a sturdy turtle.

 

I absolutely want to remain original (even tho the crate motors are nice). I think there is a 'cool' factor when people tweak the original motor as apposed to just dropping a crate motor in... where's the fun in that? It appears its TONS cheaper to tweak the original motor as well.

 

I can understand that.Do a Google on mopar forums that would be a big help for HP

 

You can go BIG BIG BIG with a 440.....take a look around this site....

www.440source.com

...lots of stroker kits for damn good prices....I'm probably going to go with the 500" stroker for the 440 in my 68 T/C wagon....or yeah baby...:banana:

 

Oh and to address the "thick" wall 440's...there were none!! They got thinner near the end of production...around 76-78 but all the 440's were the same wall thickness from 65-75-ish, car, truck or industrial.

 

440??????

I've got also a t/c 1972, my vin tells me it's a 400, but the registration papers tell it's a 440, how can you see(?) the difference?

 

You know what would be a cool add-on for the 440, would be the Roadrunner-type 6 pack configuration, with the special air-cleaner they had over the carbs then.

 

The 440 was an option that year...but I dont know how to tell the diffence at a glance. I knew mine was original and unmolested, the VIN coded out a 440 (engine code RB) and so did the build sheets I found deteriorated under the driver seat. Plus, I have the HD Towing Package which was also linked to the 440 from what I gather.

To address the 6 pack idea... I thought about that too - I dont see why you couldnt change the manifold and find yourself a six-pack setup... its the same motor. That would be FUN!

 

Yeah, and dressing that motor up like an old Mopar Muscle car, would really draw attention at the shows. You're seeing a lot more popularity with these 'sleeper' wagons!

 

You already have the longest stroke crank for a bb Mopar so unless you wish to spend large on a custom crank overboring is your answer. An offset ground crank could get you a little extra stroke at the expense of journal size.
Oversize pistons beyond .060" oversize will also get expensive.
A .060" overbore will get you another 10 cubes or so. Otherwise open your checkbook bigtime.

 

Yeah... dont want to have to get the check book out.. the car needs a lot of other stuff first and it runs well now. Im going to work with what I have and do a basic rebuild eventually- I was just curious. Thanks ALL!