How to know when you need shocks?

Just an FYI, replacing the front shocks is very easy on these cars. The only issue I can think you might have is if the car spent time in salt and has rust. If not, a little Liquid Wrench and you can replace them in no time.

The rears are another matter. It's difficult to reach the upper shock bolts...there is not much room. If you have a shop you trust, you might farm that job out to them.

Keep us in the loop on the project!

-Mike

 

Got my shocks but?

Got my rear shocks done the other day. Ended up going with Monroe coil-over shocks on the advice of the shop owner. He had told me he makes this conversion all the time on older cars that were set up with air systems and it works great, so I went for it. He actually had a funny story about how it's common for old guys down here to pull in with big old boats, like mercury grand marquis, loaded up with golf bags in the trunk and worn out air systems so that the back end nearly bottoms out. For these situations, the coil-over shocks with a new set of springs puts 'em back like new. With my roadmaster, I already had the heavy duty suspension cargo springs, so I only needed to replace the shocks.

It worked great as far as I was concerned - the ride is much better. Especially when cornering. Now, I can go into a corner and actually accelerate right through it without feeling any roll at all. I love the ride. Very happy with the shocks, but while I was getting the shocks replaced, I asked him to give the car a thorough inspection since I was planning a long road-trip this weekend. He told me there was some indication that the water pump was going - there was an occasional water drip which was falling down, landing on the steering stabilzer shock, and never making it to the ground. Since I had heard the problems that can occur when a water pump goes on this engine (messing up opti- spark, etc.), I decided to let him replace it. Everything went fine, but when I went back to the shop to pick it up, I noticed a stain underneath where it was parked (about the size of a baseball). I didn't think anything of it at the time, because I figured that it was just coolant overflow. I drove it home, and noticed the same spot under the car in my driveway - and one of the things I really love about my roadmaster is that it leaves absolutely no spots - it's been in my driveway for three months and never left a spot, so I knew right away something was wrong. When I checked the consistency, it was oily which made me a little more concerned. It was already too dark to see where it was coming from, so I drove it back to the shop the next morning. After thorough inspection, they said it was leaking from around the water pump and they figured it was the seal they put in during the installation and that they would replace the seal and it should be OK. Well, they did it, and it still leaked. By that time I was supposed to be leaving for my road trip and needed to make a decision - to go anyway, with a slow oil leak and try again after the trip, or leave it to be fixed. I really didn't want to drive with a known oil leak, so I left it for another attempt. They ordered another seal kit and tried again yesterday afternoon. Again, it was still leaking oil this morning so I had to leave in the Honda. They will try again on Monday. It's been frustrating. Especially since I wanted this road trip to be in the RM.

It sounds like maybe they don't have the right tool to get the seal over a splined shaft without damaging the seal, causing it to leak.

I'm sure he is a good mechanic with a lot of experience, but probably doesn't see a 94 Rm too often. I'm hoping that it's only a seal, but until they get it fixed, I guess you never know. The one thing I know for sure- before the water pump was replaced it had absolutely no oil leaks. I had just driven about 2500 mile since the last oil change and the level was completely unchanged.

Is there any way that the water pump itself could be causing a seal to leak?

If anyone has any advice on this, please post and I'll pass it on to my mechanic. I know it's been frustrating to him. If you include the initial installation and the two attempts to fix, he's now tried three times. He told me this morning he was seeing it all night in his dreams, trying to figure out where he's going wrong.

 

VERY COMMON ISSUE on these. The shaft seal is very soft, and it's easy to turn inside-out when sliding it on the shaft. It will leak is not installed correctly.

Over on the longroof site there is a guy that sells an install piece to simplify the install. http://gmlongroof.4umer.com/t5135-lt1-water-pump-seal-tool-aluminum-650-shipped?highlight=Seal+tool

Read this link, and also click the vid in the link: http://www.impalassforum.com/vBulletin/showthread.php?t=250476

Here's another vid: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OjIT_FT-mDI

Also, what you did with the rear shocks is what I did on my 96 Roadmaster.....the first time. I removed my leaking air shocks and installed coil-over shocks in the rear. I left the stock springs, and it was fine....unless I had a heavy load in the car or tried to tow. In those instances, even with the coil-over shocks, the rear still sags badly.

Despite having the tow package, the stock springs are still very weak...they are meant to work only with the air shocks. The pics I posted earlier in this post comparing the new and old springs were from an air-shock/tow pack car.

When you have the funds, grab a set of the Moog variable-rate springs. They're cheap, and you can keep your new shocks. Not hard to install and you'll be shocked at the improvement if you load the car up, and it'll still ride smooth too.

Good luck!

-Mike

 

I had the same problem with both of my 96 roadmasters. The tool that guy is selling is a great idea! I am now using a 3/8 drive 1/2inch deep well socket and it works like a charm. this is without a doubt something I would call the "LT1 curse" Do a waterpump develop an oil leak you will never get rid of! But with that tool or the socket you can be oil leak free again !

 

The cap to a Sharpie marker works as well as the install tool for installing the water pump drive seal. Just cut the clip off the cap so its smooth. I bet your mechanic even has a Sharpie. Good luck.

Mike

 

Has anyone ever installed the Roady air suspension parts on another car??? I am wanting to get the back of my Clamshell back up a little but don't want to replace the springs or add airshocks that I have to constantly adjust up and down.

 

Then just try a set of loadbearing coil over shocks (shocks with the coil spring on them) there about $100 at auto zone. To be honest the air ride system will cost more to install than a fresh set of springs and a set of coil over shocks. I would not put a used system on your car because these systems are not real reliable.(now being over 16 yrs old) JMO

 

Ford Load leveling system

Mike,

Guess what I am looking for? Yep. The Ford load leveling system (compressor, airbags for coil springs). I think it was made either by Dana or Eaton. I don't need it right now, but it is on my list.

Phil Lingle
cell: (734) 272-3522

 

PJ: Too bad I didn't know you when I scrapped the 92, you could have had the entire thing! It worked as designed. I just HATED how it did work. It handled loads beautifully, I have to admit. What I did not care for in the least was the behaviour in long sweeping corners, as the car would take a set, but part way through, it would try to level out, changing the handling of the car in mid corner. Also, when things did break, it was a FORTUNE to repair. The guy I bought the car from had put over $1,000 to keep it working!