The griz is starting to, not start/shut off, more frequently now, so I would like to know if anyone else has had this same issue and how was it fixed. Problem- after running a while, when I stop and shut the car off for a short time or even if I'm sitting still idling for 15-20 mins, I will experience a crank-no start/just shut down, experience. Now, what I have concluded is that this must be in the ignition switch, as when I have this problem, I just rotate the ignition switch back and forth rapidly a few times and the car will start. Here lately, it takes longer to start. Have any of you experienced this?
It could be the ignition switch. It looks to be the same ignition switch that all my vehicles take. The same switch that was used all the way back into the 70s for pickups and AMC products. I've had them melt over time in my van. The service manual shows a LOT of things running through that switch. I have to wonder if it is designed to handle the accessories that have been added since they first started using it. Transmission solenoids, higher powered stereo, engine electronics, large front wipers and rear wiper, front and rear heater blower motors.... At least these switches are so commonplace that they're only $12 at the parts store. Is your steering column loose at all? If it's like the other GM/AMC columns that were used through the 70s and 80s and early 90s, many of them tend to loosen up over time at the 4 bolts that hold down the tilt steering pivot. The ignition switch is controlled by a gear rack that runs from the key cylinder through the tilt pivot, and if it's even a little loose it will throw off the ignition switch adjustment.
Thanks for the info Wagonman76. That sounds very likely to be the problem. Only question is, while sitting still for 20-30mins at an idle, what would cause it to just shut off?
Maybe I didn't understand the first post totally. It just shuts off by itself after 20-30 mins? Or it just won't restart after YOU shut it off after 20-30 mins? But I guess either way, if it's running it's drawing power through the ignition switch, heating up and shifting the contacts that might be already gone bad. It could be a number of things under the hood, but wiggling the ignition switch wouldn't make a difference. One time it went on my van, the contact that has all the accessories and trans solenoids and all had melted. It was on a day that I was 150 miles downstate and it was foggy and cold and raining, so I had front and rear wipers and front and rear heaters going full blast. I stopped at a gas station and it would restart fine. But it wouldn't move and the accessories wouldn't work. Took about 3 times of restarting it to get it to finally go. Then when I got home I replaced the switch with a spare I had from a simpler car. You should be able to see the switch under the driver side dash panel. It's most likely attached to the left/top side of the steering column under the dash. To get it out, it is easier to remove the bolts that hold up the column, then let it pivot down with the steering wheel setting in the front seat. It's not that hard really. Then adjust it so it starts easily but also turns back for accessory.
All good advice. I've had several GM ignition switches short out. Even if it is something else, replace the switch then go from there. Also on some older GM vehicles the light switch will overload and burn up. Especially when adding haligan bulbs or acc. lites. Always add relays when adding accesories.
One of my Pontiacs did that. It was a bad ignition module in the distributor. Most parts stores will test them for free, but mine would always test OK. It wouldn't fail until it got hot...
does your key have a chip in it? my old 94 impala ss had a chipped key the wires in the ign lock broke down over time from flexing the tilt column. well know problem, had many of a mechanic scratching their head. can be easily by passed by tracing the wires and installing a diode in the place of the key lock assembly. my understanding is gm used various different "loads" in the key so you have to take the lock assembly out and use an ohm meter to measure before installing the new diode. once the diode is installed the computer can not tell that it is not a chipped key and will start and run. some gm's will ping the ign lock after running for so long and if it does not have a clean circuit it will shut off the fuel pump. because it thinks it is being stolen.
